Better backup system when blocking down a spar

peder-d

peder-d

Location
Aarhus, Denmark
When we block Down a spar, we use this system, where the climbing line is tied around the stem as a backup for the lanyard - as most climbers, I know, use.
However, it is not possible to descend on the system, in case of an accident.
Have tried the method, where you choke the climbing line on the stem, and add a figure 8 behind the prusik. It is safe, but extremely slow and clumpsy, when you have to move Down the stem.
Any good systems out there? :-)
 
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...However, it is not possible to descend on the system, in case of an accident...Any good systems out there? :-)

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Yes. The Hitch Hiker will do what you are asking very well.

Dave
 
Instead of a prusik, use a belay device like a Grigri or a Rig.
I still use my AFS on spars most of the time. I've used the system for so long it's hard to change.
 
Have you ever used an adjustable Ring to Ring friction saver?

The idea is similar to the pulleySAVER which was mentioned before in this thread, but a R2R is much more compact, and allows one to get closer to the spar if needed. It will also retrieve much more reliably, as a pulleySAVER can SOMETIMES get 'spar locked', and requires more attention to install properly while preparing for your next move.

You could try using a cinched SRT method and employ a Rope Wrench system, or the Hitch Hiker system. To be honest, a spar needs to be quite clear of stubs, crotches, and other obstacles to easily retrieve a cinched SRT system. While it's usually a good habit to keep a spar 'clean', it may not always be practical.

I have seen some other innovative methods for working spars down, but my opinion is that the method you may pick up the quickest is to use an adjustable Ring to Ring friction saver. You will be able to maintain your normal, familiar DdRT climbing system, and be able to descend with smooth, reliable motion.
 
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Why not use an adjustable friction-saver? Maybe I'm missing something.
https://www.treestuff.com/store/catalog.asp?item=1997

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you can but it will tear up your climbing line fast! I think Hamel has a great vid on different ways to choke to a spar . I will see if i can find it!

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Not necessarily...As long as the rings on the friction saver don't touch, you're good to go, and a neat trick is to install a floating small ring located on the climbing line, in-between the two rings of the Friction Saver. This will prevent bark rubbing.
cool.gif
 
Either an adjustable friction saver or a HitchHiker will work very well.

With the Hitch Hiker you can climb DRT and then switch to choking the spar with your climbline and if need be you can always descend single line.

I should make a video of the transition between SRT/DRT with the hitch hiker.

Here are some videos and links on the product:

http://ropetekwraptor.com/hitch-hiker/
https://www.treestuff.com/store/catalog.asp?item=2171

http://youtu.be/qL0gbzHnRKk
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r4Y5mE4WmxE
 
I like to choke with a running bowline, I leave a long tail and use a muenter below my hitch it's super simple and quick. I just leave a biner on the lower d ring of my saddle and undo the muenter each time, it's easy and simple.
 
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To be properly choked you need space between you fs rings and your climbing line is use to choke the rings together ...witch means your rope is rubbing on the spar!

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I respectfully disagree. I understand your statement, and yes, the rings must not touch, but they don't need to be more than an inch or two from each other when the FS is properly adjusted. This will not allow enough room for the rope to rub, and the rub can be totally eliminated with the floating ring in-between.
 
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To be properly choked you need space between you fs rings and your climbing line is use to choke the rings together ...witch means your rope is rubbing on the spar!

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I respectfully disagree. I understand your statement, and yes, the rings must not touch, but they don't need to be more than an inch or two from each other when the FS is properly adjusted. This will not allow enough room for the rope to rub, and the rub can be totally eliminated with the floating ring in-between.

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Thats true in some cases but somtimes you fs isn't long enough for the spar and in that case it will rub!
 
Very true, Sir. We're onto something here! I have a few adjustable FS's for this very reason. One is built to be used as a base anchor for very large diameter trees. It's 20' long! If I really need it in a tree, I'll daisy chain the excess tail, and only employ in when it's really needed. I get away with the 4' and the 8' ones most of the time.
 
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