Best practices for using a lift near exposed roots or patios

[climbingmonkey24]

Septic systems, underground sprinklers, etc. I always check on that. Generally I do more climbing than lift work, but most recently though I looked at a job that made me consider something else if I was to use a lift…lots of exposed roots and a patio.

For those of you who regularly use self-propelled lifts or something similar, what’s your protocol for yards that have a lot of exposed roots from trees that aren’t being removed? Do you put down matting or plywood, or perhaps avoid the area altogether? What if you can’t really avoid the area?

And patios? Do you find out what the material is to determine a safe working load, cover it up like mentioned above, or just stay off?

I do understand part of this might be situation dependent and dependent on the individual machine being used.

This pic shows some of the roots I’m referring to. Both the front and backyard has had exposed roots for years, but I suppose that’s a whole separate conversation.

 

[Neill]

Once over and back with no turns - can sometimes get away with nothing. Mats tend to slip and grind and offer limited protection in my experience. If the place can allow it, a “bridge” of wood chips is the best option in my opinion

 

[climbingmonkey24]

Once over and back with no turns - can sometimes get away with nothing. Mats tend to slip and grind and offer limited protection in my experience. If the place can allow it, a “bridge” of wood chips is the best option in my opinion

Thanks, that’s helpful info.

I’m also thinking tires vs tracks might be lower impact. Not sure if I’ll definitely use the lift but good to be prepared for all possibilities.

 

[climbingmonkey24]

Removal of the leader going towards the house on a river birch.

The appeal of the lift versus climbing would be to just get right out there over the roof and piece it out. Although squeezing it in that area of the yard and maneuvering the boom around might be delicate work.

Thoughts on climbing vs using the lift?

 

[Lumberjack]

Context matters.

Structurally roots are hard spots, above ground hard spots are sometimes useful for setup.

I wouldn’t want to setup up and have the pad slip and “fall” off the root. Typically using a pad to even out where the root is can be helpful in getting the support from the root without that risk.

Patios are like any other hardscape. Our lift’s max outrigger load is 6500lb. It’s a judgement call. Usually we have enough reach to not have to set up on them. If we did, make a judgement call, spread the load out appropriately, and get after it.

Apparently this didn’t send this morning.

 

[Lumberjack]

Removal of the leader going towards the house on a river birch.

The appeal of the lift versus climbing would be to just get right out there over the roof and piece it out. Although squeezing it in that area of the yard and maneuvering the boom around might be delicate work.

Thoughts on climbing vs using the lift?

View attachment 99463

Climbing a removal that a good lift can reach is slow, futile, and expensive over a career.

 

[climbingmonkey24]

Context matters.

Structurally roots are hard spots, above ground hard spots are sometimes useful for setup.

I wouldn’t want to setup up and have the pad slip and “fall” off the root. Typically using a pad to even out where the root is can be helpful in getting the support from the root without that risk.

Patios are like any other hardscape. Our lift’s max outrigger load is 6500lb. It’s a judgement call. Usually we have enough reach to not have to set up on them. If we did, make a judgement call, spread the load out appropriately, and get after it.

Apparently this didn’t send this morning.

Yeah, I would try to avoid setting up on the roots. I was implying more for positioning the lift or driving over them.

 

[Lumberjack]

The mower mowing the tops of the roots does more damage… unless there’s an obvious exception I don’t get overly concerned.

 

[flushcut]

Any way you can up sell the custy on bringing in some dirt? Might be an easy sell because I bet they are tired of mowing over that.
I have laid down canvas painter tarps and dumped enough chips to even things out and mated in over the top of that.

 

[southsoundtree]

I typical tell customers to add soil between roots to allow an easy mowing. This will be the start. Add the soil haul service to the package. Almost time to seed for fall, I think. Mat/ plywood atop the soil.



Septic "as-builts" (or by another name) can help locate tanks and the drain field. They should have a copy.

If in doubt, stick a prone into the ground. Easy to find a tank edge. Don't blow through the lid.

 

[Neill]

I’d climb that, it would be on the ground before a lift was set up

Edit: that’s a little boastful, but truthfully I do like climbing river birches and unless the lift was on-site and the setup was a snap I really would just climb that one

 

[southsoundtree]

Removal of the leader going towards the house on a river birch.

The appeal of the lift versus climbing would be to just get right out there over the roof and piece it out. Although squeezing it in that area of the yard and maneuvering the boom around might be delicate work.

Thoughts on climbing vs using the lift?

View attachment 99463

Can you hang out whole of the trunk behind it, cutting out the base. Some pole chainsaw work in there.

Birch will hang on its own wood well.

 

[96coal449]

The river birch..... If I remember correctly, you'd be renting a lift?
For that tree, I'd climb it over a rental. Unless another job was prime for a rental. 2 jobs or more for one rental deal.

With climbing, Set a 3/4'' line in a suitable crotch of the spar that is to stay. Pull it down, tie on a block, insert rigging line, and pull up block to crotch. Tie off bottom end of 3/4 block line to keep block stationary. Tie off the whole offending spar at the top. Cut the bottom out and keep lowering it down till ya know it's getting top heavy. Set the rest in the yard.

Before the initial cut, pretention the rigging line. Make a felling cut towards the block and add more tension on rigging line. By now I'm babbling about the obvious to you....LOL

I do this stuff often to make the job as easy as possible. Additional help I have, in my favor, is a GRCS. The same could be done with, say, a mini skid steer with grapple bollard. Don't know what's in your arsenal but, ''there's more than one way to skin a cat."


Edit: This would have been post #9. Somehow I got distracted and never hit the ''post reply'' button.
Ooohhhh, something shiny....... gotta go.

 

[evo]

Might be a pain but can you piece out a fair amount with pole saws from the roof? Get some weight out before climbing?
I can’t tell if the house is one or two stories, tree doesn’t look that big

 

[flushcut]

As far as patios go I have set up my lift on patios but I get the HO to sign off on a damage waiver first. If the patio is well built I don’t have much concern about damaging it but you never know. Stay away from the edges by a good margin and far away from retaining walls.

 

[southsoundtree]

Why a lift over climbing?

 

[Lumberjack]

Speed, longevity, practicality, safety.

 

[Matias]

Speed, longevity, practicality, safety.

but if you mostly don't need a lift and hence don't own one, the juice may not be worth tge squeeze on a lift rental. If setup is a pain, and the project isn't that big, it is likely impractical, and can be slower. I also don't see a dangerous climb there. While I generally agree that easy bucket access jobs can be done faster, with some reduction of fatigue to the body, and in a practical and safe way witg a bucket.

 

[flushcut]

Auto immune disease that triggers an arthritis response in your hands making prolonged gripping painful. The elevator makes it less painful.

 

[southsoundtree]

Why a lift over climbing?

I meant specifically with this tree.

Having a second, higher-tied rigging rope can take the load as it is lowered to keep the tree butt heavy as you cut the bottom out.