Best first bull line.

Tyler Durden

Tyler Durden

Branched out member
Location
North Texas
So I find myself needing to step up my rigging line game. I am blocking down big pines and cedars and am looking at something in the 5/8ths range. This rope will see a lot of lone runs thru gear, so heat resistance is key right now. I have reached the limit that I feel comfortable dropping on my 1\2 line and am seriously looking at Sirius. Does any one have any thoughts on how well it resists glazing?

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Sometimes I hate the "what's the best?" threads... not because I doubt the various opinions, but because how you are rigging changes the answer. For example, we have so many elm trees here, it's crazy. Long leaders, not very big around, tall trees. Close to targets. I often have to pick a rigging TIP that is high up on stems that are only a few inches in diameter. The all-polyester ropes (Sta-Set, Stable Braid, etc.) can break out the TIP with any significant shock loading. The nylon-core ropes (Husky, Polydyne, etc.) have much better energy absorption and usually don't do this. In those cases, I have plenty of vertical space for the stretch. So, the best rope in that scenario is not the best rope for say, when I have a lower, larger TIP and am trying to ease a large limb off the tree that is hanging right over the roof of the house or Grandma's prized Azalea bushes. Then, I want the less dynamic ropes because they are a lot easier to control the load without it swinging and bouncing around.

I think you have to consider how you are rigging and what you are rigging the most, if you're hoping to get by with one rope for awhile. I don't think I could do that, anymore. I have gotten spoiled on having more choices at my disposal. Husky, Polydyne for great energy absorption, Sta-Set, Stable Braid for great control. I haven't personally noticed any difference as far as abrasion/glazing resistance, that couldn't be attributed to things like too small of a bollard on the lowering device or trying to drop pieces that are too heavy. The exception would be the 3-strand ropes. Look at the angle the cover strands on a double-braid lay, in respect to the rope direction, compared to a 3-strand rope and you'll easily see why the 3-strand ropes are so abrasion resistant. They slip right over and around things because the strands, especially under load, are much more parallel to the rope direction.

I keep some of those around, too. I know a lot of folks think that's ancient technology, but they're cheap and tough and get the job done.
 
I almost hated to comment for all the reasons you just gave Jeff. Best of anything is really only best at what it was designed for. With so many variables in tree work it is hard to say anything is the best. Better in certain situations, but best is like trying to find a unicorn.
 
You are right, "best" was a miscommunication on my part. I am taking large logs off of tall spars. By best, I was meaning what rope is going to hold up to long runs thru gear with out too much heat damage. All our drops must be smooth as butter, so energy absorbition is a close second. This rope will see NO natural crotch rigging so abrasion should not be an issue at all.

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Yeah, that's much more specific... for negative blocking, I like anything with a nylon core, myself. I'm not brand loyal unless I see some huge difference in quality or performance.
 
I guess my question should have been,"what are options for avoiding heat build up on your lowering devise?". Our runs with these logs normally start above 100' and must be smooth on the climber while still being able to stop on a dime. Glazing has been my biggest issue, next to the weight limit of 1\2" lines.

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I only have the Stein RC-1000 and RC-2000 devices, not the large bollard ones. The guys with the big ones can give you more info on that... obviously, the larger bollard is better for the ropes, and I should think that they would cool better, too. But, I haven't forked over the big chunk of cash for one, yet. They might be easier to control the drop speed, as well... again, I don't know. From watching a Stein RC-3001 in use (without the winch) I did notice that with that big, 4.5" bollard they weren't having any issues with the rope hockling, which seems to get worse with a big rope on a small diameter bollard.
 
Tyler Durden said:
That would be a lot of ice to carry to a remote location everyday.

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Click to expand...

Sounds like you need to take a hard look at one of the bigger bollard devices, then, like JeffGu suggested. Seems like you are getting to the point where it is needed. Reg's device, with the ability to lift limbs sometimes, seems ideal to me.

Tim
 
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