Access rope - sideloading the carabiner?

peder-d

peder-d

Location
Aarhus, Denmark
I am using this setup for my access line.
I pull the carabiner etc up, so it is a bit under the branch where my access rope is hanging from. The carabiner enables me to move the access line to a different point in the tree, once I have reached the canopy - and thereafter I anchor in on the access line.

The carabiner should not be sideloadet, as far as I can see.
But it would be nice with a second opinion on that matter.

Thanks :-)
 

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I think you should invest in a Petzl delta link. The triangular shape is rated in all directions and works very well. I have been using it for a while, and even leave a mini box end wrench in it so I can tighten to the spec stamped on the unit. Strange as it may sound, it works very well and is intended for that type of use. It is also much smaller than a biner and will not sit against a branch the way the biner would. $0.02
 
Tie a double loop figure 8 or bunny ears, put the other side of the rope between the loops and capture it in there with the biner. I use it every day
 
Sirnick, how do you tie that double figure 8 with bunny ears?

The idea of the setup is, that you footlock op to the top of the (from the ground) installed access line. Thereafter you move the access line (unclip the carabiner) to the ideal work-anchor point and install your climbing system on the access line. The advantages of the carabiner are, that ít is ease to unclip/move, the two ends of the access line are paralell all the time and the carabiner works as a stopper knot under the prusik in my main anchor. Hope it makes sence ?! :-)
 
I started out choking a biner while working down spars, however I quickly changed to a running bowline choke as the biner always looked dodgy ( weak link ) even though at the time it was a huge steel biner. I use a base tie SRT, but I would use the running bowline with a yosemite if I had to go the choked route on a stem.
 
I find it an excellent tool to run up into a tree to enter, then to easily advance ones tie in point. Once destination is reached i tie a running bowline with a pull down line attached via double fisher mans to the the tail of the bowline.

We all have different trust thresholds. I trust this. Im sharing. Different strokes for different folks
 
[ QUOTE ]
Jman,
The gate on that particular biner is rated at 10Kn

http://www.dmmclimbing.com/products/10mm-oval/

[/ QUOTE ]

Right on, I was just commenting that the gate is usually rated lower than the major axis. I think the 5 or 6kn is for aluminum biners not steel. I would have to look it up to get exact numbers. Generally you shouldn't load biners on anything but the major axis. But hey it's your choice so it's more power to ya.

I wouldn't be comfortable using that technique far away. If the biner stays close I would be more comfortable but I do feel there are ways around this issue. A running bowline can be tied over and over and achieves the same thing but if you prefer a biner go right ahead.

Steel is better than aluminum and knots are better than both. IMO but that just it, its just my opinion.
 
10kn is about 2250 lbs. That's not too bad and the lowest gate on any of my biners is 7kn. So, i was wrong and though it was a bit lower than what i said. but 7kn is about 1500 which doesn't sit well with me. Either way being mindful of the way the gate is oriented is the way to go. Climb safe.
 
When I do a choked PSP and my climb will have a continuous load on it I'm not uncomfortable using a biner with the gate in the UP position. This would be in a descent/rappel mode or similar. If I'm going to stop to work on the way down and my climbing rope may be unweighed I'm much less comfortable using a biner. Most of the time I have a screwlink on my harness just in case. This is a better choice at any time.
 
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