12V Chipper Winch?

tc262

Branched out member
Location
SE Wisconsin
Does anyone have any experiance running a 12v winch on a chipper. One like the bigger ones from harbor freight. I'm worried about the duty cycle on the motor and wonding if three or four long drags back to back will burn it up. Or are they to slow or not have enough power?
I'm asking because I will be getting a new 20" chipper to do some field testing on some new clutches. I don't own the chipper and don't want to buy a $6k winch for something thats not mine, but it'd be nice to have the winch so I don't have to bring the tractor on the easier or smaller removals to feed it.
 
I have a harbor freight winch (badlands 12000) lb on my car trailer. It was cheap, and works fine. I got it at the recommendation of a buddy that has one. My advice is get the extra ($80 or so) "no matter what happens" warranty. I managed to break one winch with a Lincoln continental ( we build derby cars as a side hobby) and one skidding pine logs. Each time I took it back and told them what happened and got a new one.
As far as the battery goes, if you run the chipper in between skids, it should charge the battery enough. I wanted to get longer jumper cables on mine to the truck battery and when I found out what 25 ft cables cost ( had a four door long bed powerstroke at the time) I bought two sets at harbor freight and cut the ends off and wired them together. Pretty ghetto, but works in a pinch. If I'm skidding logs and battery starts to go, it makes the difference between getting the last one and another trip.
 
Although, slow is better than none. I wouldn't want to mount a hydraulic winch and pump, figure out how to plumb it, and everything it entails, on something I did not own.

With a 12V winch you can mount it on a plate, ($40-50 at harbor freight for the one pre drilled for their model winches) add a receiver hitch and then you can still have it when you give the machine back.
 
12V won't work, duty cycles are way to short. I looked them up. You can run it for something like 3 mins then have to cool for 15. I'll burn the thing up in no time.
Its not that hard to plumb in a hydraulic winch. The pump and everything is already there. Usually just have to add in another valve, but I got lucky and there's an extra unused one.
Anyway I pulled the clutch off it the other day, waiting for some new parts to come in to get the new configuration in it.
 
I have a rebuilt Morbark hydraulic winch I could set you up with. It even comes with the hoses to go to that unused valve section. I see that is a Twin Disk you're pulling off of there. Do you mind if I ask what clutch you are testing?
 
Tom, are you doing field testing for Morbark, or for Twin Disc?
It's gonna be hard to go back to using your old chuvk 'n duck after this, isn't it?
 
Tom, are you doing field testing for Morbark, or for Twin Disc?
It's gonna be hard to go back to using your old chuvk 'n duck after this, isn't it?
I work at Twin Disc, thats my primary income. And yeah the chuck and duck will only be used in the winter to keep my next chipper out of the salt. I have the capitol saved up for a new chipper but haven't purchased one knowing that this was coming through the pipeline.
 
I work at Twin Disc, thats my primary income.
Cool! Although realize that now that you've admitted that publicly on here, you are going to get all of the comments, criticisms and technical questions we all might have about our Twin Disc clutches. Doesn't matter if you're the president, the senior engineer or the copy boy for the firm, we're all gonna bother you. Hopefully, when you've had enough of it, you'll just quit your job and not the Buzz!
 
Oh, forgot to ask how much $?

Sorry guys, I've been slacking on checking the Buzz. We get $3100 for the rebuilt winches and that is with a new winch mechanism, new hyd motor, and hoses. A lot of Morbarks come with the winch valve already in the valvebank but if yours does not, we also stock them. And they're all blasted and painted Morbark Orange. As far as shipping, I would guess it to be $250ish to get it to NH maybe $300 but we'll want to make sure you have a commercial address to send it to or the freight gets real pricey.
 
There's a spec listed on the data plate plate for the amount of force required to engage the clutch. Put a torque wrench on the nut at the base of the handle to check it. If its not adjusted tight enough you run the risk of the clutch slipping and causing excessive wear. To adjust it remove the data plate, push in the lock pin, and rotate the nut.
 

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