When tightening the legs through the spacer first and then loading the hitch means there isn’t much pull on the overhand, I only tied it that way because of the length of the cord. The spacer works good as a tender because you can get good tension on the legs to lock it in place, it could lose...
I threaded each leg through the hole in the spacer before tying the over hand knot so I could tension it up, it does wiggle a bit but it stays where it needs to.
I thought the large contact area in the ring would add too much friction for it to be a nice tender.
Retractor reels are probably my favourite idea because you can have the zero length aspect where you dint have a bungee flopping about when it’s stowed and they can work with every step length but mine is nowhere near strong enough to pull the ascender.
I’ll have a look at the thread on the...
For my knee ascender I am using a piece of rubber to advance the ascender. It’s like what you’d use for resistance training; handles either side to hold and pull apart etc..
It works better than anything (for me that is, I’ve tried so many different things), it has the best spring up the rope...
Away from my kit for a while now so I can’t ry these out, overhand looks like it’d be hard to adjust. Sticht and reef look like they are the way forward. Used with a strap and a second ring will help the longevity of the hitch.
would the overhand work behind the small ring?
I’ve had an idea with the swivel too, that could potentially have an impact on the performance of the hitch. Use the swivel sideways instead of straight up and down. This would pull the hitch sideways slightly and could affect force distribution...
Made a shorter tending loop, as soon as any rope is pulled the hitch moves, very good idea by Brocky.
The swivel is just another one of the countless variations, don’t see any upside to it.
Have tried the hitch with the reef knot on a small and big ring, tends very well. Due to the tightness...
Longer tails will be nice with that one to allow some slack for tying and adjusting before loading. Looks like it would take a good length of cord. I only really use tied eyes so a large ring Is easier to pass the eyes through or I could try the quickie as well and see how that works.
I like the name ‘Reef Rack’ like rope rack :)
That looks to be a big change with how you’ve been tying these! I will try that when I get chance.
It looks like that hitch could be harder to adjust tension on the wraps unlike the sticht where you would push some cordage through the twist and...
Yes! The man from the video that was posted in the thread the other day of the hitch being tied and used. He is called Julian, he posted a few videos of the hitch on Instagram, one was with the wrench and one with the HH. They seemed to be very smooth.
I need to make one of those.
Hitch cord cover with some accessory cord stitched together inside should do it right?
Having a pulley beneath the hitch works but can bump the hitch a certain way and it will bind for me anyway, I use a pinto and a phlotich regularly and they are ok for the most part
When I can I’ll always more photos of what I came up with. It’s like the green cord you have as well as taking wear away from the cross. Also tends really well because when tended from beneath (by hand not be chest attachment) the quickie is pushed up into the wraps.
I want to use this hitch...
It will only allow me to post one photo at a time I hope this can show what I mean. The top of the shackle sits inside the very top braid or outside, still messing with the idea
Got cut off on the post above.
I am trying to make the hitch a bit smoother on a single line by spreading friction into the twist in the ring with hardware instead of cord to make the system more friendly to textiles. The quickie is good because I can snap it in midline
Back on the garage, used a quickie to capture the rope behind the cross to prevent excess wear on the cord there. Connected the quickie behind the first braid before the cord enters the ring and it seems to push the wraps when tending which makes it a lot smoother.
Trying to come up with ways...
@Brocky Yep, using less wraps (I like 3) and having the ring close up to the wraps will let me find an initial grabbing point.
If it slips at this point (baring in mind this is the most friction available), I’d have to add a wrap. If it grabs tightly I have the room to adjust the ring away...
Sticth Hitch tied using a shackle or a quickie would help when tying with larger cordage or tied terminations on hitch cord, because you can open it up and just pass the cord into the shackle. Shackle pin could also roll when tending and possibly make it easier. Not tried this variation out...