One of the “skinny” double braid splices does eliminate the core from the eye, a couple others have a quarter of the core going through. The longer bury helps, but they are weaker than a regular class I double braid splice.
For the hitch, you can go back in time to the single eye split tails. The Knut H works good, self hand tends on its own, and a few others.
The green cord is a loop, makes tying the Knut H easier.
https://www.practical-sailor.com/sails-rigging-deckgear/stitching-instead-of-splicing
This method seems to get stronger results than trying to copy machine stitching.
It appears the fibers are coated while being formed into strands, they stick together when trying to separate the strands. There is very little twist in the strands, the NER is 3mm, the Ocean is a little bigger, closer to a 4 mm.
New England Ropes and Robline’s make a version of 3mm dyneema with a break strength of a little over 5000 lbs. that could be inserted in the end of the the rope, with a separate eye cover, or using the double braid’s.
I tried it once with RING, shown above, but removed it and did a double braid...
It was sluggish on a 10mm Mammut semi-static, it has a somewhat bumpy cover, and not real firm. KM III max was much better, firm, with a smooth cover.
It doesn’t want to slide on Technora, even on a 6mm.
Yes, that’s a 3mm core in a Hollowblock2 loop I cut the stitched section off, makes for a nice thick cover.
The overlapping tapers were started about an inch from the eyes, with each tapered bury ending at the one inch mark to keep the “core” a consistent diameter. This method would break at...