Rope advancing tool

Some key points. The bar goes (biner) on the end of your rope. The pivot side has a push-only support for the bar to pivot on. The push-open and hook side has a carefully arced opening ending in a hook to pull the bar/rope back down. Keeping this arced hook at the right location for the mechanism to operate smoothly is key. You can build in some spring detente at the hook arc to lessen reliance on maintaining rope tension as you raise the device up to position.


Neat device "Bent Happy Hooker" with an angle pivot onto the pole. In my stuff collection :)
 
Built mine on a worn out 1 stage telescoping Pruning Stik but person could make one out of one of those expensive multistage telescoping pruners. I found judging (near the limit) fat branches at 14' a challenge. Not a problem if you only target skinny branches like in the video.

The elastic/ferrule poles would come apart when you yank the rope back down to you. edit doh! ferrules click into place, it would work
 
I recall looking around for one way back when and didn’t see anything premade but I believe Jameson now makes one, available on Arbsession.
 
That Jameson Rope Sniper is pretty slick. Clean simple design. I wonder what the throat opening/max limb diameter is?

Edit: just found out it's 4" . That sucks, 6 or 10 would be much more versatile.
 
Last edited:
I wonder what was arranged re the patented Happy Hooker boating tool it copies? By the way, using it at 4" is looking for trouble. If you envision the operation the bar has to swing down far enough to pass the limb by, and by the bar's tip to let the bar swing back up again. Hence the depth is about 1 3/4 x throat width. You could imagine branch shape messing with this.

 
That Jameson Rope Sniper is pretty slick. Clean simple design. I wonder what the throat opening/max limb diameter is?

Edit: just found out it's 4" . That sucks, 6 or 10 would be much more versatile.
That is indeed a bummer. 10” would be a luxury but 6” would be quite the sweet spot. Would sure make a quick reset of your anchor when hard to get with throwball nice.
 
I picked one of these up. I found some of the edges to be sharp like knife sharp so those had to be filed down and it could use a magnet or two to help hold the “cross bar” so you don’t need to hold tension on the line when advancing the tool aloft. But other than that it’s pretty slick.
 
Years ago I used to place a lanyard or light line (but not throw line) by attaching a throwbag which I would then grab gently with a Fiskars Pruning Stik with the head set 90 degrees/sideways and reach the bag over the limb and release it. Reach past, rotate 180, release. Similar to the daigentanoen in use. For stubborn cases you could grab the bag again and pull it down. bit fiddly to do. high tech version of throwball on a stick

edit - a detail with the Fiskars, you grab the bag upside down with the rope behind coming out downwards, and offset the rope a bit to the side of the blade so the rope doesn't end up hung over the Fiskars, letting you pull the fiskars out. IIRC, been a while. With light ropes fold a few bights behind the throwbag for instant bag drop

edit2 - for normal size climb line, bag upside up and 1 pass of rope going down behind it innermost in "jaws" to prevent rope on top of jaws on release
 
Last edited:
Years ago I used to place a lanyard or light line (but not throw line) by attaching a throwbag which I would then grab gently with a Fiskars Pruning Stik with the head set 90 degrees/sideways and reach the bag over the limb and release it. Reach past, rotate 180, release. Similar to the daigentanoen in use. For stubborn cases you could grab the bag again and pull it down. bit fiddly to do. high tech version of throwball on a stick

edit - a detail with the Fiskars, you grab the bag upside down with the rope behind coming out downwards, and offset the rope a bit to the side of the blade so the rope doesn't end up hung over the Fiskars, letting you pull the fiskars out. IIRC, been a while. With light ropes fold a few bights behind the throwbag for instant bag drop

edit2 - for normal size climb line, bag upside up and 1 pass of rope going down behind it innermost in "jaws" to prevent rope on top of jaws on release
There was a discussion about trunk cinching (among other things) I think it was some years ago and the scotch made me draw this thingy up - the bag flipper thingy. Notch where are you?
 
Good thread dig up! I remember your sketch and had no solution at the time. I get putting the arc vertical to push up to location but a 90 degree rotation mechanism is asking for trouble. Perhaps a hybrid of nantgoen and Fiskars: Scrounge a small gripper head from something, use 2.2 zingit or similar as actuating pull line routed internally through fixed horizontal arc tube structure, just hold maneuver release a separate bag on throw line (?) Temporarily avoid the arc position rotation.

Fiskars donor could help because it's actuation system terminates in a single throw line like strand - voila half built out the gate and light and telescoping to boot
 
I pictured (remembering this was in the haze of single malt) a straight section on some sort of hinge thing with a ball or throw bag on the end. You'd extend it up then just whack a branch to get it to go 90 degrees and flick the ball/ bag around the stem which would miraculously fall back to you within arms reach. Needs a pole that you can twist or rotate. Will have a look at Fiskars. Neat idea.

The issue I had was working skinny thick spruces with downsloping branches and feeling way better with a choke around the stem than over branches. Did a lot of deadwooding (it was sorta like the Monty Python skit for a while - Bring me your dead, Bring me your dead . . . He's not quite dead yet. Silky cut. Yes he is . . . ) Anyway . . .
 

New threads New posts

Kask Stihl NORTHEASTERN Arborists Wesspur TreeStuff.com Teufelberger Westminster X-Rigging Teufelberger
Back
Top Bottom