Saw preference?

96coal449

96coal449

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What's your favorite saw to sling for riding the ball?

I run a MS262 C-M with a LW 20'' bar, and .325 pitch. Saw needs to go in the shop. I broke my own golden rule, and used someone else's gas last Fri. I had thought it was just from the heat and, the gas was sitting in the sun for a bit. Ran a little better today with my fuel back in it, but still a little off. I had expected a dirty air filter and changed it out. That was after I got home. Saw ran ok for a few cuts then got worse. Hard to start now and, won't stay running. I don't have the time to dig into it. I'm riding tomorrow with a 461. Not looking forwards to hanging that off my saddle.

So, I need to buy a replacement.
All ears here, just looking for suggestions. I love the weight of a 261 with a LW bar.....
 
96coal449 said:
What's your favorite saw to sling for riding the ball?

I run a MS262 C-M with a LW 20'' bar, and .325 pitch. Saw needs to go in the shop. I broke my own golden rule, and used someone else's gas last Fri. I had thought it was just from the heat and, the gas was sitting in the sun for a bit. Ran a little better today with my fuel back in it, but still a little off. I had expected a dirty air filter and changed it out. That was after I got home. Saw ran ok for a few cuts then got worse. Hard to start now and, won't stay running. I don't have the time to dig into it. I'm riding tomorrow with a 461. Not looking forwards to hanging that off my saddle.

So, I need to buy a replacement.
All ears here, just looking for suggestions. I love the weight of a 261 with a LW bar.....
Click to expand...
A Stihl 462 is pretty amazing. It remonds me of my 361 which had an incredible power to weight ratio. The 462 is VERY perceivably lighter than the 461 and has amazing throttle response. It can run whatever bar length you’re comfy with for climbing but also handle a longer bar for felling work or larger trunk cuts.

When I say 462, I mean “462”, period. Not 462RPXCSblahblahblah. Just 462 without any letters after it.

I got a 201T back from a gent who found the issue. It had been sitting for a couple years since the last guy couldn’t figure it out. Now my Husky top handle sits and I basically run the 201T and the 462 as my 2 primary saws day in and day out. A 660 is also on deck for the really big stuff.
 
oceans said:
A Stihl 462 is pretty amazing. It remonds me of my 361 which had an incredible power to weight ratio. The 462 is VERY perceivably lighter than the 461 and has amazing throttle response. It can run whatever bar length you’re comfy with for climbing but also handle a longer bar for felling work or larger trunk cuts.

When I say 462, I mean “462”, period. Not 462RPXCSblahblahblah. Just 462 without any letters after it.

I got a 201T back from a gent who found the issue. It had been sitting for a couple years since the last guy couldn’t figure it out. Now my Husky top handle sits and I basically run the 201T and the 462 as my 2 primary saws day in and day out. A 660 is also on deck for the really big stuff.
Click to expand...
If I'm correct, a 462 is a carbed saw with adjustable jets and 75cc. A 462c is the chipped version with 71-72cc.
the 462 seems to be off the shelfs again. My local dealer had them on the shelf last fall. He said the chipped carbs were on back order at the manufacturer's level. They're bot twice the price of the 261c....LOL.

BTW, I took a couple of good picks of that saw lanyard I made. I keep forgetting to share them with you while I'm away from home, and have good cell service.
 
96coal449 said:
If I'm correct, a 462 is a carbed saw with adjustable jets and 75cc. A 462c is the chipped version with 71-72cc.
the 462 seems to be off the shelfs again. My local dealer had them on the shelf last fall. He said the chipped carbs were on back order at the manufacturer's level. They're bot twice the price of the 261c....LOL.

BTW, I took a couple of good picks of that saw lanyard I made. I keep forgetting to share them with you while I'm away from home, and have good cell service.
Click to expand...
There is also a distinct weight difference between the 462 and the 462C. The 462 being lighter.

Fuel injection is cool I guess, but I oscillate from buying high tech vs. lower tech. Too mich high tech can leave you with a pile of things you can’t fix with common knowledge, tools, and parts. Lower tech can keep you in the cut, if ypu know what I mean.
 
I got a 400 for when I switch from a tophandle. Before the 400, I went to a 460/461. It’s got good snort, and I didn’t have to stock a 3rd chain size. Buxton saw works made it, and it shipped fast!!
 
Chris Schultz said:
I got a 400 for when I switch from a tophandle. Before the 400, I went to a 460/461. It’s got good snort, and I didn’t have to stock a 3rd chain size. Buxton saw works made it, and it shipped fast!!
Click to expand...
Iran their 400c today, after running my 261 for 4 picks of red oak. First 2 cuts it ran normal, then finicky for the last 2. I'm starting to question the fuel filter. Thinking maybe It sucked up some crud ..... I'll swap it tomorrow and try again.

The 400 wasn't a bad saw to run, but still heavy for my liking. Did 6 trees today. One, the red oak, was a monster. 40'' at the base.
 
96coal449 said:
Iran their 400c today, after running my 261 for 4 picks of red oak. First 2 cuts it ran normal, then finicky for the last 2. I'm starting to question the fuel filter. Thinking maybe It sucked up some crud ..... I'll swap it tomorrow and try again.

The 400 wasn't a bad saw to run, but still heavy for my liking. Did 6 trees today. One, the red oak, was a monster. 40'' at the base.
Click to expand...
I’ve found with most modern saws they need to be idled after a cut before shutting off. It takes some retraining of my mind to remember that…..Something about how the chip/carb adjusts itself and its memory. I try to adhere to that, and haven’t had issues so far.
 
Matias said:
Yea, I do that with my cars, generators, etc. It's advised in many manuals even.
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With a 4 stroke engine, revving an engine then immediately shutting it down, washes the oil off of the cylinder walls and piston rings. Increasing premature wear. 2 stroke's a different story. Fuel is the oil system. Like Chris said, it's about the auto tunes for the new saws.

My old school saw habits are carried over from the automotive world. I suppose it may cool off the engine a bit though.
 
96coal449 said:
I've almost always done that with old school saws too.
In fact, all engines.
Click to expand...
A good idea with anything running a turbo too - now with all the hopped up 4 cylinders coming out with hybrids etc. warming the engine/ oil up a bit before driving (getting turbo bearing lubrication) and idling a few minutes before shut down to cool down a turbo/ oil is good practice for longer turbo bearing life. Learned this the hard way on wife's Audi - $4.5K for a new one after 85K km only! Ouch.
 
ghostice said:
A good idea with anything running a turbo too - now with all the hopped up 4 cylinders coming out with hybrids etc. warming the engine/ oil up a bit before driving (getting turbo bearing lubrication) and idling a few minutes before shut down to cool down a turbo/ oil is good practice for longer turbo bearing life. Learned this the hard way on wife's Audi - $4.5K for a new one after 85K km only! Ouch.
Click to expand...
Yes.... I have a few turbocharged engines. I also do it with chippers too. 4-5 mins. Lil longer when it's hot out and/or chippers been bustin arse.
 
Changed out the fuel filter and ran the 261 in the firewood pile. Similar behavior, but ran better for a bit longer. Time to drop of at the dealer's shop. I am thinking the issue is with the computerized carb. Saw will be out of my arsenal for a month or so. Will be buying a replacement. When I get the 261c back, I'm sending her out for port work and dedicating it to riding the ball. Easy life for the saw. As now, it's got a fair bit of ground hours on the meter.
 
I have a 550XP Husky that I sent for port work when new. It’s on its 10th tank of mix, and I swear it gets stronger with each tank (esp. after tank 4).

I run a 20” light bar (81 DL) and it runs circles around my stock 562XP.

No hot idle/start issues, but I do let it warm up on the first crank of the day.

For the money, it’s the best saw I’ve ever purchased, and it’s dedicated to storm and crane work.

No Husky loyalty here. If a saw will run (and stay running,) I’ll use it to make the $. At this moment in the industry, I think it’s the best bang for the buck.

Just my $.02
 
2nd that Keeth, had the original 550xp ported w/ a 20" 3/8. Sweet crane saw, not to big to hang on the belt for scrambly brush picks but tons of snort to cut over bar length wood. Now i have the mk2, also hotrodded and its a touch heavier but hot starts alot better
 
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