Rigging down logs stance

[Keeth]

I came across this FB video from Craig’s Tree Service where they were rigging down logs. Jordan is standing opposite of the rigging point. The ride was a little rough, but this was an exception, not the norm. These guys know what they’re doing.

Where do you normally stand, and why?

 

[AdkEric]

I don't rig logs too often, but when I do I try be off to the side if it's practical. Less of a ride in my experience if they don't run smoothly.

 

[Boomslang]

Always stand as far away as practical. Don't get hit by debris. Don't get sucked into the lowering device. Allows other workers or equipment to come in for handling without being in the way.

Side note: I probably wouldn't have rigged such a long stick there. I know it's not the best perspective, but it doesn't look like it had a lot of room to run.

 

[Serf Life]

Good point Boom, big piece for the views or fun perhaps? I stand opposite or to the side depending on the dia, if I’m pushing it, if it’s being pulled etc. In that situation why rig it? Zoom into the ground area and looks like one could send 4-8’ sticks in there. We rig logs as little as possible and sometimes their lawn gets a blemish.

 

[Boomslang]

I make it known to the clients that (affordable) tree removal is often a destructive process. We do our best to mitigate collateral damage, but any divots or ruts are not our responsibility to fix (unless someone is being a dumbass like driving the truck across the lawn in the spring).

99% of people understand and the 1% who want flawless get charged accordingly.

 

[Muggs]

I make it known to the clients that (affordable) tree removal is often a destructive process. We do our best to mitigate collateral damage, but any divots or ruts are not our responsibility to fix (unless someone is being a dumbass like driving the truck across the lawn in the spring).

99% of people understand and the 1% who want flawless get charged accordingly.

Same here. Need to manage client expectations up front, that's key for so much of what we do. We ain't droppin' pillows out here....

 

[ghostice]

If I have any doubt about ground help or if rigging stems bits (big or small) from way up, I'll try and leave couple of short opposing stubs to hang onto if you do go for a ride. Same with tops. Still tied in double but somehow the stubs make it feel better maybe.

 

[Mick Dempsey]

Yes, going big for clicks, it seems it’s a thing.

Only neg rigging when unavoidable is my mantra.

 

[Chris Schultz]

I try to not be directly opposite the direction of lay, less risk of spar lash towards face/chest…. I also try to keep my knees/legs soft, but still firmly planted in my work position. I typically try to avoid putting my hands/palms up on the cut, I have and it’s fucked up my wrists/forearms/elbows from the violent shock/vibrations.

 

[Matias]

I try to not be directly opposite the direction of lay, less risk of spar lash towards face/chest…. I also try to keep my knees/legs soft, but still firmly planted in my work position. I typically try to avoid putting my hands/palms up on the cut, I have and it’s fucked up my wrists/forearms/elbows from the violent shock/vibrations.

Do you mean on the piece thats being cut off, or on the top of the spar after release?

 

[Chris Schultz]

Top of the spar after release.

 

[Matias]

Top of the spar after release.

ok, that's what I thought you meant. I haven't gotten injured doing so, but I can imagine it happening in a variety of ways. What is your preferred way to further stabilize yourself, beyond just being a straight up ninja?

 

[Chris Schultz]

Good work positioning, weight in my system, and trust in the gear. Also not taking unnecessarily large pieces…..

 

[DSMc]

I always set opposite from the impact. Legs and arms bent slightly to best absorb the expected shock. I much prefer dealing with in-line skeletal loads than the twisting loads that setting to the side can create.

 

[Keeth]

Anyone who has been doing tree work for a while has probably been jostled out of their stance by an overload or mistake lowering a load. I appreciate your constructive contributions. Twenty years ago I found discussions like this to be very helpful as I explored work positioning concepts. Just trying to pay it forward with this thread.

 

[Tom Dunlap]

Keeping the top connected longer will reduce the whipping loads on the rigging point. Use a real wide open face and thick hinge. Leave a tagline in the top of the cut piece so it can be pulled over not cut. Take advantage of using the hinge to control energy. Ideally the top folds down gently and hangs on hinge wood. Then cut it free to drop. The impact load is straight down the trunk not radially

I called this 'Ripping the Hinge'

 

[Chris Schultz]

What @Tom Dunlap said is huge. It’s amazing how much energy can be scrubbed by keeping a piece on the hinge longer.

 

[southsoundtree]

I would consider the need to strap the piece if it's being pulled over on a thick hinge, depending on the species, to protect against barber chairing.

 

[Z'sTrees]

I've heard being 45* off to the side can be less of a ride than straight off the back. It seems to me that it would let you lean into a choked tie in more, but your body weight would shift side to side and become less stable.
I'm probably just a stick in the mud but when I know there's a good chance of 'taking a ride' I am straight behind the cut, knees a little bent, and probably a step lower than normal (unless there's a push involved), and bracing against the spar.

"Ripping the hinge" as Tom called it is an interesting concept? Are you guys opening the face to allow the piece to rotate downward as much as possible? Is the pull/push not an opposing factor?

 

[southsoundtree]

Leaving some dampening branches below the topping cut makes a difference.