Climber killed by bees

What an awful story.

How was the ladder employed? I wonder if he ascended using just a ladder and tied in with a lanyard or belt?
 
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Heartbreaking reminder to inspect trees before climbing and have a quick way to the ground.

Terrible to think think that a fall to the ground was actually his best option. He was likely too panicked or incapacitated to realize that and may not have been able to easily release (or cut) his loaded tie-in lanyard/strap once the ladder fell.
 
What an awful story.

How was the ladder employed? I wonder if he ascended using just a ladder and tied in with a lanyard or belt?
My guess is he was working off of the ladder installing something on the tree and had the harness/lanyard as a back up to prevent falling. One of those rare scenarios wearing the extra precaution actually made the situation worse.
 
Heartbreaking reminder to inspect trees before climbing and have a quick way to the ground.

Terrible to think think that a fall to the ground was actually his best option. He was likely too panicked or incapacitated to realize that and may not have been able to easily release (or cut) his loaded tie-in lanyard/strap once the ladder fell.
more than likely the Africanized honeybee. Hard to describe how aggressive they can be. For every one sting of average honeybee, these will sting about 10 times the amount. This time of year means bees in trees. Have end of rope ready to do a running repel to get down quick. Since this is bee talk, has anyone figured out how to secure a low cost bee sting kit(epi-pen)?
 
It's not how aggressive they are. Bees are never aggressive. Their defensive nature can be misinterpreted as aggression, when in reality, they have misidentified an unwitting intruder as a threat. Whether the bees are of European or Africanized descent, they will both keep a specific defensive perimeter sphere around their colonies. Africanized strains of honeybees evolved with animals like honey badgers attacking their colonies. Because of this, they have to be much more defensive than European honeybees, and must project a greater defensive perimeter in order to deter and repel a threat before it actually makes it close enough to the colony to attack it.

If you stand around a bee colony after being stung, you will be infused with alarm pheromone which is left by each bee as it stings. You will literally become a "marked man" That pheromone instructs any other bee in the area to sting you until you either move out of their defensive perimeter....or stop moving. The more bees that sting you, the stronger the pheromone deposit becomes on you. Alternatively, if you're just moving into their defensive sphere, bees will sometimes "bump" you. If this happens, go back the way you came to a safe distance, and re-evaluate your work area before proceeding. Bees don't like to sting if they don't have to, as it can cause a massive loss of colony workers once that first sting occurs. They will often times try more peaceful means to let you know that you're in their territory and that they'd like for you to leave, without stinging.

Africanized honeybees in the US, tend to be an over-exaggerated phenomenon. Any disturbed colony will become hot and agitated and will begin a stinging defense that quickly escalates. Once a colony launches its defense, there are going to be thousands of bees involved and they will all have one interest, to drive away the intruder. The difference between Africanized and European honeybees lies in the distance they will pursue a perceived threat to drive it away from their colony. A European colony won't have to launch as serious a defense against say, a raccoon, as an Africanized colony would against the aforementioned honey badger

It can help to understand the motivation of bees as regards their defensive stinging. They will only sting in order to protect their home/goods/children against home invaders, as you would likely do if you felt your home was being invaded with malicious intent. Other than that, an individual bee out foraging is unlikely to feel motivated to sting when away from the colony, unless stepped upon, or caught and harassed.

It can be helpful to understand what bees require in the way of habitat. They need a sheltered enclosure with sufficient volume to allow for nursery comb and additional comb for pollen and honey storage. If you think of the size of a couple bee boxes stacked on top of each other, that's the minimum volume required for a viable colony to establish. Bees will also prefer a void which is accessed by a smaller hole as the smaller the entrance, the more easily it can be defended by guard bees in the colony. Because of this volume requirement, feral bee colonies will tend to be located in voids in trunks or larger stems, although sometimes a colony will outgrow that space and expand so that it hangs pendulous from limbs in the canopy. As those colonies are more exposed, they will be less tolerant of the approach of a potential intruder.

A pair of field glasses can help a great deal in identifying bees and other sources of elevated risk in a tree canopy. I heard the late and very great Bruce Smith refer to a pair of field glasses as "a poor man's bucket truck". Another tip he gave, was to hold the power head of a running chainsaw against the trunk of a tree and rev it a few times during the initial pre-climb inspection, before anything is set up. If there are bees in that tree, those transmitted vibrations will induce them to come out to see what's going on, and you will have an opportunity to vacate the area unscathed.

Most of the animals which attack bee colonies and feed upon larvae have dark colored pelts like bears, so it can be helpful to wear lighter colored clothes when working in trees during active bee season. This is why beekeepers jackets and suits are made of white material.

Stay safe everyone!
 
It's not how aggressive they are. Bees are never aggressive. Their defensive nature can be misinterpreted as aggression, when in reality, they have misidentified an unwitting intruder as a threat. Whether the bees are of European or Africanized descent, they will both keep a specific defensive perimeter sphere around their colonies. Africanized strains of honeybees evolved with animals like honey badgers attacking their colonies. Because of this, they have to be much more defensive than European honeybees, and must project a greater defensive perimeter in order to deter and repel a threat before it actually makes it close enough to the colony to attack it.

If you stand around a bee colony after being stung, you will be infused with alarm pheromone which is left by each bee as it stings. You will literally become a "marked man" That pheromone instructs any other bee in the area to sting you until you either move out of their defensive perimeter....or stop moving. The more bees that sting you, the stronger the pheromone deposit becomes on you. Alternatively, if you're just moving into their defensive sphere, bees will sometimes "bump" you. If this happens, go back the way you came to a safe distance, and re-evaluate your work area before proceeding. Bees don't like to sting if they don't have to, as it can cause a massive loss of colony workers once that first sting occurs. They will often times try more peaceful means to let you know that you're in their territory and that they'd like for you to leave, without stinging.

Africanized honeybees in the US, tend to be an over-exaggerated phenomenon. Any disturbed colony will become hot and agitated and will begin a stinging defense that quickly escalates. Once a colony launches its defense, there are going to be thousands of bees involved and they will all have one interest, to drive away the intruder. The difference between Africanized and European honeybees lies in the distance they will pursue a perceived threat to drive it away from their colony. A European colony won't have to launch as serious a defense against say, a raccoon, as an Africanized colony would against the aforementioned honey badger

It can help to understand the motivation of bees as regards their defensive stinging. They will only sting in order to protect their home/goods/children against home invaders, as you would likely do if you felt your home was being invaded with malicious intent. Other than that, an individual bee out foraging is unlikely to feel motivated to sting when away from the colony, unless stepped upon, or caught and harassed.

It can be helpful to understand what bees require in the way of habitat. They need a sheltered enclosure with sufficient volume to allow for nursery comb and additional comb for pollen and honey storage. If you think of the size of a couple bee boxes stacked on top of each other, that's the minimum volume required for a viable colony to establish. Bees will also prefer a void which is accessed by a smaller hole as the smaller the entrance, the more easily it can be defended by guard bees in the colony. Because of this volume requirement, feral bee colonies will tend to be located in voids in trunks or larger stems, although sometimes a colony will outgrow that space and expand so that it hangs pendulous from limbs in the canopy. As those colonies are more exposed, they will be less tolerant of the approach of a potential intruder.

A pair of field glasses can help a great deal in identifying bees and other sources of elevated risk in a tree canopy. I heard the late and very great Bruce Smith refer to a pair of field glasses as "a poor man's bucket truck". Another tip he gave, was to hold the power head of a running chainsaw against the trunk of a tree and rev it a few times during the initial pre-climb inspection, before anything is set up. If there are bees in that tree, those transmitted vibrations will induce them to come out to see what's going on, and you will have an opportunity to vacate the area unscathed.

Most of the animals which attack bee colonies and feed upon larvae have dark colored pelts like bears, so it can be helpful to wear lighter colored clothes when working in trees during active bee season. This is why beekeepers jackets and suits are made of white material.

Stay safe everyone!
had a hard time getting past your second sentence. Try telling that to family of deceased that bees are never aggressive. I do not want to digress. This discussion should be on prevention, awareness of potential stinging insects in trees and how this accident could have been avoided. Also finding out if any crew members are highly allergic.
 
had a hard time getting past your second sentence. Try telling that to family of deceased that bees are never aggressive. I do not want to digress. This discussion should be on prevention, awareness of potential stinging insects in trees and how this accident could have been avoided. Also finding out if any crew members are highly allergic.
Nor do I wish to digress. I think that one of the best ways to avoid negative interactions with potentially dangerous organisms, is to try to understand their modus operandi and how they respond to various stimuli. I wouldn’t presume to tell the family of the victim anything other than of my sorrow for their loss.

My interest Is solely to better inform people reading this forum on aspects of the day to day life of bee colonies, of which they may not be aware, so that they can incorporate a greater knowledge of colony behavior into their site safety management protocols.
 
more than likely the Africanized honeybee. Hard to describe how aggressive they can be. For every one sting of average honeybee, these will sting about 10 times the amount. This time of year means bees in trees. Have end of rope ready to do a running repel to get down quick. Since this is bee talk, has anyone figured out how to secure a low cost bee sting kit(epi-pen)?

Dissolvable Benadryl, epinephrine vials (if you can get one from a reasonable physician), or…

Not an epipen, and not meant to replace one, but a low cost option that be the difference between life and death on the way to medical care is the homeopathic called Apis mellifica. You can find it at most vitamin shops and crunchy food stores. Keep a small tube of it handy and take a few every few minutes until you can get to the hospital or as you wait for an ambulance.

One of my daughters was stung by a large hornet (European, I’m guessing) when she was 4, and her leg reacted rather quickly. Around an hour after taking the apis, we couldn’t find the sting site.

Obviously that’s not the same as an anaphylactic response, but the effect transfers.

Once my wife and I learned about homeopathics (we were willing to try just about any alternative to the untested “modern” approach to my daughter’s genetic disorder), we’ve found them to be very effective in many situations, including stings, poison Ivy, mold damage recovery, and Lyme management. They are commonly used in medicine around the world, except in the US, where it faces constant threat from the FDA because effective treatment isn’t as profitable as allopathic pharmaceuticals.
 
After getting 24 red wasp stings and going to the ER, I got a prescription for an epi pen. IIRC, my copay is only $5.

I was worried about the out of pocket cost after they raised the price of epi pens through the roof (stratosphere?) a few years ago for no apparent reason.
 
Dissolvable Benadryl, epinephrine vials (if you can get one from a reasonable physician), or…

Not an epipen, and not meant to replace one, but a low cost option that be the difference between life and death on the way to medical care is the homeopathic called Apis mellifica. You can find it at most vitamin shops and crunchy food stores. Keep a small tube of it handy and take a few every few minutes until you can get to the hospital or as you wait for an ambulance.

One of my daughters was stung by a large hornet (European, I’m guessing) when she was 4, and her leg reacted rather quickly. Around an hour after taking the apis, we couldn’t find the sting site.

Obviously that’s not the same as an anaphylactic response, but the effect transfers.

Once my wife and I learned about homeopathics (we were willing to try just about any alternative to the untested “modern” approach to my daughter’s genetic disorder), we’ve found them to be very effective in many situations, including stings, poison Ivy, mold damage recovery, and Lyme management. They are commonly used in medicine around the world, except in the US, where it faces constant threat from the FDA because effective treatment isn’t as profitable as allopathic pharmaceuticals.
thanks for your benadryl remedy and Apis mellifica heads up . It is always a reality check when a worker that is allergic gets stung. You might be interested in Dr Pat Wagner, Michael Simics, Dr Bodog Beck, all API-therapists past and present. The healing that can be done with bee venom is cost effective and nothing short of a miracle if it works for a person that does not have medical insurance.
 
It's not how aggressive they are. Bees are never aggressive. Their defensive nature can be misinterpreted as aggression, when in reality, they have misidentified an unwitting intruder as a threat. Whether the bees are of European or Africanized descent, they will both keep a specific defensive perimeter sphere around their colonies. Africanized strains of honeybees evolved with animals like honey badgers attacking their colonies. Because of this, they have to be much more defensive than European honeybees, and must project a greater defensive perimeter in order to deter and repel a threat before it actually makes it close enough to the colony to attack it.

If you stand around a bee colony after being stung, you will be infused with alarm pheromone which is left by each bee as it stings. You will literally become a "marked man" That pheromone instructs any other bee in the area to sting you until you either move out of their defensive perimeter....or stop moving. The more bees that sting you, the stronger the pheromone deposit becomes on you. Alternatively, if you're just moving into their defensive sphere, bees will sometimes "bump" you. If this happens, go back the way you came to a safe distance, and re-evaluate your work area before proceeding. Bees don't like to sting if they don't have to, as it can cause a massive loss of colony workers once that first sting occurs. They will often times try more peaceful means to let you know that you're in their territory and that they'd like for you to leave, without stinging.

Africanized honeybees in the US, tend to be an over-exaggerated phenomenon. Any disturbed colony will become hot and agitated and will begin a stinging defense that quickly escalates. Once a colony launches its defense, there are going to be thousands of bees involved and they will all have one interest, to drive away the intruder. The difference between Africanized and European honeybees lies in the distance they will pursue a perceived threat to drive it away from their colony. A European colony won't have to launch as serious a defense against say, a raccoon, as an Africanized colony would against the aforementioned honey badger

It can help to understand the motivation of bees as regards their defensive stinging. They will only sting in order to protect their home/goods/children against home invaders, as you would likely do if you felt your home was being invaded with malicious intent. Other than that, an individual bee out foraging is unlikely to feel motivated to sting when away from the colony, unless stepped upon, or caught and harassed.

It can be helpful to understand what bees require in the way of habitat. They need a sheltered enclosure with sufficient volume to allow for nursery comb and additional comb for pollen and honey storage. If you think of the size of a couple bee boxes stacked on top of each other, that's the minimum volume required for a viable colony to establish. Bees will also prefer a void which is accessed by a smaller hole as the smaller the entrance, the more easily it can be defended by guard bees in the colony. Because of this volume requirement, feral bee colonies will tend to be located in voids in trunks or larger stems, although sometimes a colony will outgrow that space and expand so that it hangs pendulous from limbs in the canopy. As those colonies are more exposed, they will be less tolerant of the approach of a potential intruder.

A pair of field glasses can help a great deal in identifying bees and other sources of elevated risk in a tree canopy. I heard the late and very great Bruce Smith refer to a pair of field glasses as "a poor man's bucket truck". Another tip he gave, was to hold the power head of a running chainsaw against the trunk of a tree and rev it a few times during the initial pre-climb inspection, before anything is set up. If there are bees in that tree, those transmitted vibrations will induce them to come out to see what's going on, and you will have an opportunity to vacate the area unscathed.

Most of the animals which attack bee colonies and feed upon larvae have dark colored pelts like bears, so it can be helpful to wear lighter colored clothes when working in trees during active bee season. This is why beekeepers jackets and suits are made of white material.

Stay safe everyone!
Agreed, with bald faced hornets if you are able to cut the nest out of the tree they will swarm the exact location in 3 dimensional space their nest was. The groundies don’t have much to worry about, and if there is a climber in the tree they just need to make damn sure they are out of the attack zone.
 

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