Looking for the ideal rope.

Comparing apples and oranges on Scandere line creep? Wilber, you're talking about a new hank of Scandere DdRT with the Zig-Zag, AdkEric is using SRT same device and line. With the super smooth 48-strand cover I suspect that if you break in your Scandere a bit more it will stop slipping DdRT with the Zag.
-AJ
That rope wrench of Eric's may give just enough resistance to stop the creeping in the ZZ for SRT. I know me in DRT is half the weight of SRT, but the MRS causes more flattening along a rope (especially one that flattens easily), than SRT. So maybe Scandere is even more susceptible to slipping in DRT with no other conjunctive rope devices attached to the ZZ.
 
That rope wrench of Eric's may give just enough resistance to stop the creeping in the ZZ for SRT. I know me in DRT is half the weight of SRT, but the MRS causes more flattening along a rope (especially one that flattens easily), than SRT. So maybe Scandere is even more susceptible to slipping in DRT with no other conjunctive rope devices attached to the ZZ.
Since the bollard (slic pin) on the Rope Wrench is effectively flat any construction arborist line will flatten somewhat. With the exception of twisted steel cable. I still maintain until proven otherwise that Tachyon keeps the best roundness under load, the third inner core construction was designed for that purpose. Some flattening improves performance on the Rope Wrench and Rope Runner devices because of the increased surface contact. I’ve found that the Rope Runner bird releases hard on Tachyon because of the reduced friction contact area. Once the Runner bird bollard is broken in Tachyon runs better on it. Tachyon is fairly bouncy so it’s not preferred by most climbers for SRT.
-AJ
 
"...just slightly if barely perceptively roughing up the cover..." I thought the implication here, is nearly infinite changes will occur when the Scandere rope is "broken in". Which is what I've understood from ropes in general, that when some of the filaments break and the ends become like macroscopic "stubs", the grip in hands and devices is increased.

I noticed that back when I ran the bare Beal over the many "back branch to trunk" areas, and some crotches (I try to avoid crotches, because I like reduce obstruction in crotches, for they're vulnerable to rot of debree), and many branches. There was not much bark damage, sometimes almost none, except seeing that a rope had run there.
And, rope wear was not very noticeable to me.
I'm not trying to discredit what you're saying, only trying to understand.
Thanks, AJ
The rope surface is fairly stable after initial break-in use takes the brand new slippery shine off. If a climber uses cambium protection the degradation of the rope surface is going to be very slow. Work hardening and UV is going to be the limiter for rope lifespan. If a climber doesn’t use cambium protection for MRS/DdRT the abrasion effects on the cover are significant and greatly shorten the life of the rope. You may not detect it after a few climbs but over weeks and months there is significant damage to the cover.
-AJ
 
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Let us know when you want to sell that horrible Scandere. I'm sure some hero will help rid you of it for a modest price.
Yes, I'm wanting to actually rid my self of it, the creeping happens too often. Would you have a length of at least 150ft of a decent rope like XTC or Blue Moon or something of the sort, that we could do a swap? Thanks.
 
My Blue Moon isn't going anywhere! I'm not interested in the Scandere but if you put it up in Treebay for a reasonable price someone will snap it up quickly I'm sure.
 
Yes, I'm wanting to actually rid my self of it, the creeping happens too often. Would you have a length of at least 150ft of a decent rope like XTC or Blue Moon or something of the sort, that we could do a swap? Thanks.
How long is the scandere? Does it have the sewn eye? I’ve got 150’ of blue moon with tight eye splice, it is used, but I could sell/trade with good conscience. Blue moon I’ve found works great for DDRT, and SRT. Mechanicals and/or hitch based systems. Natural crotch, or friction rings…. It is damn good rope.
 
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How long is the scandere? Does it have the sewn eye? I’ve got 150’ of blue moon with tight eye splice, it is used, but I could sell/trade with good conscience. Blue moon I’ve found works great for DDRT, and SRT. Mechanicals and/or hitch based systems. Natural crotch, or friction rings…. It is damn good rope.
It is more than 160ft, about 162ft, I'll check the exact length later. Yes, a sewn eye, (but it's not as tight as I'd like it, the sewn eye seems to have stretched since it was new) It was originally 200ft, neon yellow, I ordered it from ArbSession. Your Blue Moon being used is ok, at least it'll be "broken in". Are you willing to part with any ropes that are slightly bigger diameter than BM? 11.7 or 11.8?
But, if not I think it's a good trade.
 
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It is more than 160ft, about 162ft, I'll check the exact length later. Yes, a sewn eye, (but it's not as tight as I'd like it, the sewn eye seems to have stretched since it was new) It was originally 200ft, neon yellow, I ordered it from ArbSession. Your Blue Moon being used is ok, at least it'll be "broken in". Are you willing to part with any ropes that are slightly bigger diameter than BM? 11.7 or 11.8?
But, if not I think it's a good trade.
Everything I’ve got new or used is 11.7 varieties, or a used Samson arbormaster 16strand which is 1/2”.
 
Everything I’ve got new or used is 11.7 varieties, or a used Samson arbormaster 16strand which is 1/2”.
Oh, I see. Is the Arbormaster a true half inch(12.7) or right at 12mm, or 12.5mm? Thanks. Well, I guess your BM sounds good. Do you notice much flattening with the BM?
The hurdle would be having to ship the rope. Looks according to your avatar, you're located in Colorado, eh.
 
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Hi, I'm new to this forum, signed minutes ago. I'm looking for some help in finding a rope that has a minimum of 32 (preferably 48 strand) braid strands with a minimum of 3 carrier strands (in 32 strand), that has a very tight cover braid. Similar to this Beal Access rope:

The two problems I have with rope is it's too stretchy and and too small diameter. I know this is a rock climbing rope, but it's the only rope I have found that has a high strand/carrier count, yet also stays very round with high side pressure, and is moderately stretchy.
I recently purchased the Yale Scandere, which flattens severely, and is too stretchy, which I couldn't fully know until I used it.

In lieu of finding the rope I'm looking for, I'm thinking of petitioning a local rope manufacturer to make this ideal rope: 12mm, 48 strand very tight nylon cover braid (nylon is abrasion resistant enough, but nylon is more porous than polyester which would increase the grip), with a balance of nylon and and polyester core, (to get the ideal bulk with less weight, but still keeping it a static rope).
Too bad to hear that Re Scandere, had thought it was Yale's "bigger type of Mercury", obviously BiFrost is their 11mm, newer/marketing "answer" to Samson's amazing Mercury!!

How, precisely, are you noting this 'elasticity/bounce'? I ask because I hear this complaint enough that, when swapping from Blue Moon (1.4%) last year (wow, like 54-55wks ago now) to Mercury (3.5%), I figured I'd feel some but if anything I'd instinctively tell you Mercury was a MORE static rope, because I've never noted an iota of stretch in it but, in the hand, it's WAY firmer than Blue Moon, stuff is incredibly 'tight' which is probably why you can't officially splice it (and doing so w/ Drenaline instructions works but isn't worth it IMO, took me nearly 2hrs each time :P )

In EVERY other arena, sub-5% rope is ALL considered static, I mean when I upgraded to Mercury it should've(DID) given me an extra 2.1% stretch, so 1.1' of stretch on a 50' line if&when I'm hitting it with 10%ABS which is 850lbs on Merc., from tests I've seen you can barely get past double your bodyweight climbing (unless you were intentionally bouncing I guess) which means the stretch should be virtually imperceptible, nevermind that - as soon as you put your hitch&asccenders onto it - you've already achieved the overwhelming majority of the flex/elongation right then&there..

But yeah Mercury is a freak, still have an un-used 150' but once that's gone I'll be getting a blue hank, I do prefer the hand-feel of an 11.7mm+ rope but it's not worth the extra weight IMO and it's unnecessary for good ABS ( though IMO ABS is a bit of a misnomer, as it's only concerned with static strength and all our big concerns are Re dynamic hits...that's why I'm more inclined to go "bouncy" on my climbline than bullropes, though I will mention I use Polydyne 1/2 and 5/8 (3.5%) and would've gone higher with Atlas if I'd known enough about Sterling to trust them when I was making that buy!)

The biggest surprise to me, beyond the price given the specs, is how hard/resilient that cover is, they don't even publish thread count AFAIK but it's very high, and VERY tight, probably the definition of 'hand', but am still very surprised that the one I use for bullrope is not showing cover defects!! In fact it takes bark-friction better than the coats/jackets on my polydyne!!

Re the textiles, I'd always seen it a different way...nylon for the core, to guarantee your 'lifeline' is the safer innerds, and the lighter, slicker poly outer jacket, because I'd thought that your hitch was WAY more about relative diameters & how you tie it, not surface-friction per se..... Wow now that I think of it my 'mercury flipline' is the ONLY merc I have that shows 1/2 its age, and its sole 'defect' is significant color-fade & darkening (because it's my primary/daily flipline, and I use this 15'+ flipline hard)`

Hope you're happy with whatever you choose, oh and if I didn't already mention it, Mercury is very very cheap for some reason, I don't get that (think it's the strongest 11.0mm on the market, if not it's the top 2 or 3), they just did a whole new approach to developing this rope it is amazing I wish I had other kerns so I knew if others were this good (they aren't on-paper/specs)
 
Too bad to hear that Re Scandere, had thought it was Yale's "bigger type of Mercury", obviously BiFrost is their 11mm, newer/marketing "answer" to Samson's amazing Mercury!!

How, precisely, are you noting this 'elasticity/bounce'? I ask because I hear this complaint enough that, when swapping from Blue Moon (1.4%) last year (wow, like 54-55wks ago now) to Mercury (3.5%), I figured I'd feel some but if anything I'd instinctively tell you Mercury was a MORE static rope, because I've never noted an iota of stretch in it but, in the hand, it's WAY firmer than Blue Moon, stuff is incredibly 'tight' which is probably why you can't officially splice it (and doing so w/ Drenaline instructions works but isn't worth it IMO, took me nearly 2hrs each time :p )

In EVERY other arena, sub-5% rope is ALL considered static, I mean when I upgraded to Mercury it should've(DID) given me an extra 2.1% stretch, so 1.1' of stretch on a 50' line if&when I'm hitting it with 10%ABS which is 850lbs on Merc., from tests I've seen you can barely get past double your bodyweight climbing (unless you were intentionally bouncing I guess) which means the stretch should be virtually imperceptible, nevermind that - as soon as you put your hitch&asccenders onto it - you've already achieved the overwhelming majority of the flex/elongation right then&there..

But yeah Mercury is a freak, still have an un-used 150' but once that's gone I'll be getting a blue hank, I do prefer the hand-feel of an 11.7mm+ rope but it's not worth the extra weight IMO and it's unnecessary for good ABS ( though IMO ABS is a bit of a misnomer, as it's only concerned with static strength and all our big concerns are Re dynamic hits...that's why I'm more inclined to go "bouncy" on my climbline than bullropes, though I will mention I use Polydyne 1/2 and 5/8 (3.5%) and would've gone higher with Atlas if I'd known enough about Sterling to trust them when I was making that buy!)

The biggest surprise to me, beyond the price given the specs, is how hard/resilient that cover is, they don't even publish thread count AFAIK but it's very high, and VERY tight, probably the definition of 'hand', but am still very surprised that the one I use for bullrope is not showing cover defects!! In fact it takes bark-friction better than the coats/jackets on my polydyne!!

Re the textiles, I'd always seen it a different way...nylon for the core, to guarantee your 'lifeline' is the safer innerds, and the lighter, slicker poly outer jacket, because I'd thought that your hitch was WAY more about relative diameters & how you tie it, not surface-friction per se..... Wow now that I think of it my 'mercury flipline' is the ONLY merc I have that shows 1/2 its age, and its sole 'defect' is significant color-fade & darkening (because it's my primary/daily flipline, and I use this 15'+ flipline hard)`

Hope you're happy with whatever you choose, oh and if I didn't already mention it, Mercury is very very cheap for some reason, I don't get that (think it's the strongest 11.0mm on the market, if not it's the top 2 or 3), they just did a whole new approach to developing this rope it is amazing I wish I had other kerns so I knew if others were this good (they aren't on-paper/specs)
Interesting, I've never looked very hard at Mercury. Noticed in a tech spec that the cover fiber is HTP (high tenacity polyester), that could account in part for the hard/tight feel and add to the overall strength rating. Normally you'd think that a kernmantle is core strength only but the HTP cover is likely adding strength.
-AJ
 
Too bad to hear that Re Scandere, had thought it was Yale's "bigger type of Mercury", obviously BiFrost is their 11mm, newer/marketing "answer" to Samson's amazing Mercury!!

How, precisely, are you noting this 'elasticity/bounce'? I ask because I hear this complaint enough that, when swapping from Blue Moon (1.4%) last year (wow, like 54-55wks ago now) to Mercury (3.5%), I figured I'd feel some but if anything I'd instinctively tell you Mercury was a MORE static rope, because I've never noted an iota of stretch in it but, in the hand, it's WAY firmer than Blue Moon, stuff is incredibly 'tight' which is probably why you can't officially splice it (and doing so w/ Drenaline instructions works but isn't worth it IMO, took me nearly 2hrs each time :p )

In EVERY other arena, sub-5% rope is ALL considered static, I mean when I upgraded to Mercury it should've(DID) given me an extra 2.1% stretch, so 1.1' of stretch on a 50' line if&when I'm hitting it with 10%ABS which is 850lbs on Merc., from tests I've seen you can barely get past double your bodyweight climbing (unless you were intentionally bouncing I guess) which means the stretch should be virtually imperceptible, nevermind that - as soon as you put your hitch&asccenders onto it - you've already achieved the overwhelming majority of the flex/elongation right then&there..

But yeah Mercury is a freak, still have an un-used 150' but once that's gone I'll be getting a blue hank, I do prefer the hand-feel of an 11.7mm+ rope but it's not worth the extra weight IMO and it's unnecessary for good ABS ( though IMO ABS is a bit of a misnomer, as it's only concerned with static strength and all our big concerns are Re dynamic hits...that's why I'm more inclined to go "bouncy" on my climbline than bullropes, though I will mention I use Polydyne 1/2 and 5/8 (3.5%) and would've gone higher with Atlas if I'd known enough about Sterling to trust them when I was making that buy!)

The biggest surprise to me, beyond the price given the specs, is how hard/resilient that cover is, they don't even publish thread count AFAIK but it's very high, and VERY tight, probably the definition of 'hand', but am still very surprised that the one I use for bullrope is not showing cover defects!! In fact it takes bark-friction better than the coats/jackets on my polydyne!!

Re the textiles, I'd always seen it a different way...nylon for the core, to guarantee your 'lifeline' is the safer innerds, and the lighter, slicker poly outer jacket, because I'd thought that your hitch was WAY more about relative diameters & how you tie it, not surface-friction per se..... Wow now that I think of it my 'mercury flipline' is the ONLY merc I have that shows 1/2 its age, and its sole 'defect' is significant color-fade & darkening (because it's my primary/daily flipline, and I use this 15'+ flipline hard)`

Hope you're happy with whatever you choose, oh and if I didn't already mention it, Mercury is very very cheap for some reason, I don't get that (think it's the strongest 11.0mm on the market, if not it's the top 2 or 3), they just did a whole new approach to developing this rope it is amazing I wish I had other kerns so I knew if others were this good (they aren't on-paper/specs)
But, the Mercury is only 11mm, under the diameter of an ideal rope of 12mm. Also, it's not a true 32 braid, they're counting the extra carrier strand as another braid strand, when it essentially doesn't really add the benefit of another braid strand, nor the increase of surface area.
I'm thinking of purchasing Drenaline in the midterm of waiting on the custom rope. Because it's the best rope closest to 12mm (the ideal diameter).
 
You are one peculiar dude. Holy smokes, I'm glad I'm not trying to sell you a car. I can see you coming through the dealership door with a binder full of spreadsheets, lol.
Well, lol, I'm not surprised at the response. It seems most people aren't as discerning as they should be about most things. It seems some of it, if not most, is due to complacency. Things would be better designed and governed in this world, if only more people were more discerning.
 
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Its a 1/2" line. Closer to 13mm. Especially once it gets worn a little. Nice and grippy.
Yes, I ordered a 5ft sample from Rope.com, and I was hoping it would run easily in the ZZ, but being 12.7mm, it's a bit wide to run in the ZZ. I thought maybe Yale had a 12mm version of the XTC. It's less grippy in the hands than most other famous tree climbing ropes, when unused. But, when it's abraded by used, it's more grippy than most, is nice hear. I do have the Edelrid Direction Up 13mm, but it's more like 12.5. And, it's a bit big, to easily flow through the ZZ.
I find right at 12mm is the largest for great flow through the ZZ. I also use the AllGear Tower Line, which is right at 12mm, and it works great in the ZZ.

Some don't like Drenaline. It seems to have quality issues. What do you think of it?

I visited LimbWalkerTreeService using the link. That's cool you're in such a full fledge company. Are you one of the main climbers in the company?
 
Some don't like Drenaline. It seems to have quality issues. What do you think of it?

I visited LimbWalkerTreeService using the link. That's cool you're in such a full fledge company. Are you one of the main climbers in the company?
I don't think I've ever tried Adrenaline.

I'm one of the company owners. I primarily do training for our arborists, but I occasionally get tapped to climb the gnar.
 

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