i think of friction as a buffer, that favors the lesser, control/less active side.
It is the stronger pull side's burden to be able to pull thru the friction buffer, like a load against hold thru the helpful friction buffer. But if try to be the larger force, and lift thru the friction buffer then it works against you instead of helps as it does in hold/lower. If a Round Turn(540 degrees) of nylon on aluminum yields the quoted 10x factor, that is like a 10x lever of help to the lesser side to hold/control the load as in 20# of Effort to hold 200# Load.
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The co$t of conversion, deformation etc. of the arc MUST have friction;
nothing gets by untaxed; w/o friction.
(or the Kennedy bullet would still be flying theory)
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A larger pulley sheave to same bushing/bearing size on same size axle
>>sheave is then a larger cranking leverage ratio over those frictions around axle.
>>so more efficient return from Load to Control side.
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Pulley on load increases load capacity and aids pretightening
>>but gets less elastic dampening response
The stronger system, just as a stronger rope now does not have it's (Max)'headroom' invaded as much,
>>so yields/screams out less elastic dampening in response.
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Hard use of the elastics, rope is not the same rope for a while, minutes or hours depends on factors; before the rope is truly itself again. Same trick might not go the same on the 2nd or 3rd successive round, on the now temporarily (tho can go to permanent) stiffer line.
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180 arc segments are king for friction, can be listed radially on a Porty or even a linear list of arcs on a rappel rack, comes out as all the same maths. 180 arcs commit the whole unit to pull the same direction as one, and employ any sideforces as well. A deformation like a squared corner (don't do) or rounded corner or full 180 arcs are the only time that ALL rope tension force used to seat to host that then gives the controls of friction, nip and in opposing pairs grip. In the corners only over a small range, but in 180 arc thru the whole range delivers the key seating of rope to host to get the controls over Load. Other rope parts with more linear pulls of ends pulling in opposing DIRECTIONS, only use the lesser side force to seat to host(while main force dedicated to support of the load), to then yield any much more nominal frictions, nips, grips.
The 180 again is total king of this, and the counting units of capstan theory of all collective radial frictions compounding into each other. i think in terms of the 180 arc pulling load direction, then the next 180 opposing in opposite direction (this is only point of full rope force used as grip).
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Perhaps defacto standard of capstan theory that grinded thru over for years sifting things out
>>now can only find on way back machine @web.archive goldmine(link)
then made
Flat to converted to radial frictions spreadcheat w/calculator too. (and more maths) extension of above study(link)
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Metal is a heat sink for frictions vs. wood thermal insulator
>> each with higher heating synthetic rope racing around.
Natural fiber more friction, but more heat worthy too.
Nylon gives more rubber band dampening than polyester
>>but not as strong, nor heat resistant as polyester and can soak up more water.
75 fahr standard rope work temperature, most stable for nylon.
Nylon rope try to keep below 200degrees in usage.