Possible dieing maple? Need expert opinion.

Hello,

Over the last year I have noticed alot of limbs of all sizes falling from my maple. I moved into this house only 2 years ago so don't know much about the age of the tree. This summer I have noticed bark falling off or getting lose as well as many limbs falling over the months. The canopy this year is also very thin and the leaves appear to be smaller than what I remember from Last summer. Any thoughts of what it could be?
 

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Your tree is definitely not healthy. Given that it is a Maple, if I were at your home to assess the tree in person, I would first start looking for girdling roots. My first suggestion to you though would be to check around your area for a Certified Arborist who specializes in plant health care, or look for a Board Certified Master Arborist and pay them to assess your tree to see what the problem is.

This link will allow you to find Arborists in your area: https://www.treesaregood.org/findanarborist/findanarborist
 
Your tree is definitely not healthy. Given that it is a Maple, if I were at your home to assess the tree in person, I would first start looking for girdling roots. My first suggestion to you though would be to check around your area for a Certified Arborist who specializes in plant health care, or look for a Board Certified Master Arborist and pay them to assess your tree to see what the problem is.

This link will allow you to find Arborists in your area: https://www.treesaregood.org/findanarborist/findanarborist
Thank you, hopefully the tree is salvageable...
 
I went to prune dead branches on a maple recently. As soon as I looked at it in person, I saw an obvious, huge and severe stem girdling root. I recommended removal instead of pruning to the homeowner as the tree would not survive for long; homeowner agreed it wasn't worth pruning a dying tree.
 
This is a girdling root on a 20 year old red maple I looked at yesterday. Another on opposite side that is not quite as bad. This is just the upper layer, so who knows whats below. Symptoms are typical for girdling roots, long slow decline, growth stunted for age. Customer had a company diagnose as pest and fungal, which it has signs of neither, and they never even pulled back the mulch or even questioned it. :(
0811211653_HDR.jpg
 
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I went to prune dead branches on a maple recently. As soon as I looked at it in person, I saw an obvious, huge and severe stem girdling root. I recommended removal instead of pruning to the homeowner as the tree would not survive for long; homeowner agreed it wasn't worth pruning a dying tree.
In your opinion would my tree recover if I was able to remove the girdling root if that is the issue?
 
Not my area of expertise, but my intuition is that by the time strong negative effects are apparent, it may be too late for much of a recovery. The tree may already be badly girdled or the girdling root may be a significant fraction of the root system. What say the experts?
 
Not my area of expertise, but my intuition is that by the time strong negative effects are apparent, it may be too late for much of a recovery. The tree may already be badly girdled or the girdling root may be a significant fraction of the root system. What say the experts?
I would concur, but I am not willing to make a definitive statement without seeing the tree in person for a proper assessment.
 
The process? Dirty hard work. Air excavation, water pressure washer/shop vac, buckets of various hand held power tools, more buckets of hand held tools.

Dig and chop...repeat.

there are videographers and photographers who have done a wonderful job of illustrating the process. I take a few snapshots and most don't illustrate the roots.


It's not unusual to chop out 4" diameter roots
 
The process? Dirty hard work. Air excavation, water pressure washer/shop vac, buckets of various hand held power tools, more buckets of hand held tools.

Dig and chop...repeat.
Thanks, I figured that was the deal but thought you may of had a particular technique. The only roots I have pruned have been on the surface and were relatively insignificant in relation to the size of the trunk.
in my mind I imagined the worst SGRs I’ve come across and had dismissed as “ doomed”.
 
n my mind I imagined the worst SGRs I’ve come across and had dismissed as “ doomed

Going in to deal with sgr's is a lot of brute work. the return is worth it though. Think of kinking a water hose to shut down the flow. That's how I visualize the pressure on the cambium by the sgr.

One trick I came up with is to use spade bits in my drill to 'Swiss cheese' roots before cutting with my Sawzall. You can remove a LOT of root without dulling any cutting tools. I bought a small two-stone grinder at a garage sale for $5 that I bring along. I can sharpen any spade bits that get dull right on the job. Get an inverter if you might not hve access to house power.
 
I do a lot of SGR removals every year. about 60 on average going on 6 years now. Lots of bad landscapers here. Only had one that died after it and I told the client that was a real possibility because of other roots that were girdling but to large to remove at the same time. Largest root I have ever removed was a 5 inch on an Elm and has been in all its glory since. Client now let's me just do what I think needs to be done for his trees and just pays the invoice. Like @Tom Dunlap it is a lot of grunt work but so worth it.

Sent from my SM-A205W using Tapatalk
 
On the topic of girdling roots.

have any of you experimented with PGRs to slow the growth functions while the tree recovers? Slow the decline process enough to help it turn around?
 
I’ll be hopefully experimenting with that hypothesis on a group of about 6 cherries that were all planted too deeply. At least three have significant girdling roots, planning on hopefully having a few controls that are untreated.
 
Cordless oscillating tool is handy for plunge cutting SGRs. Saves chains. I’ve always had hammer, cold chisel and pry bar on hand too.

Regarding PGRs, interesting hypothesis. Might work. Although when I used to use Paclo during iron infusions for chlorotic oak my understanding was that it slowed green growth, resulting in the tree putting more energy into fibrous root growth. That would be good for chlorosis, bad for SGRs.
 

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