Echo 2511t bumper spikes

Mowerr

Mowerr

Branched out member
Location
Ny
Has anybody on here ordered the bumper spikes for the echo cs-2511t?
I had my dealer order it because when I researched it some guys think the spikes from other saws fit like the 355t and some people claim Stihl makes some that might fit but I know the 355t has bigger spikes so anyways my dealer got me the right spikes but it only came with one bolt when I need 2 and visually the bolt looks like a fit but I feel like id really have to force it so I stopped because I read on aboristsite I think that if the bolts you use are a hair too long or too thick, you can crack your fuel tank and cause big problems.
So I plan on bringing the parts they ordered for me and the saw to my dealer to either let them show me what im doing wrong or pay them to do it which I don't really want to because it's a simple bolt on, but I don't want to void warranty...I only need to take off the bar and chain to install the spikes which I'll have off and ready when I bring it.
Doesn't anybody have a link or part number for the correct bolts or could show me a pic to compare. The bolt I got does look like the ones I've seen sold with the spikes but again I'm worried their slightly too thick for the saw because I really gotta drive them in which just doesn't feel right from my experience.
Any help is greatly appreciated thank you.
 
I couldn't believe it either. Never had a problem with mine, only had it on for about a month now though. I have done some removals and trimming so I'd say if it was going to crack it would've by now.
 
If someone did crack their fuel tank installing the spikes...do u think echo would fix it under warranty?
 
It feels like and looks like from what I can see there aren't any threads in the holes for the spikes....did any plastic shavings come out when you screwed them in?
 
Mowerr said:
If someone did crack their fuel tank installing the spikes...do u think echo would fix it under warranty?
Click to expand...
My dealer tells me they are excellent, although I've never claimed anything like that. I don't recall shavings but I do remember it being insanely tight, especially the last 1/8". Do your screws have a cut on the end to cut threads on the way in like a self tapper screw? I'll pull one and check for you now.
 
Mine are normal so it had threads to start. The plate is made so you've gotta flex it a bit to get the screw started. I'm curious if your case is cast incorrectly?
IMG_20200105_140305411.webp
 
No that's exactly what my bolt looks like and the spikes fit great I was just shook about screwwing it in after reading what I read online and feeling how tight it was
 
A while back I bought a big assortment of metric machine screws from harbor freight, always seems to have what I need if I lose a saw screw.
They’re all flat or Phillips no torx, but no biggie.
 
Ya I called the dealer who ordered me the parts, same place I just bought the 2511 from and same place I got my 355 from a CPL years ago and they say they didn't get a second bolt with it and they have none in stock and I'll have the pay the 2$ for it when it comes.
I knew I shoulda ordered it myself SMH.
I like Jonny's idea, I'm gonna check the hardware store and see if I can find a match.

But I'm curious if anybody else had heard what I heard about the bolts can crack your fuel tank if you torq them down too hard or they are too big?

And I need to correct myself from earlier post I said that the spikes are different size than the spikes from the cs355t. I was wrong they are the same size and do look like the same bolts.
 
I’ll almost guarantee it’s a very common metric bolt or machine screw, probably under 50 cents at Home Depot/ Lowe’s.
Bring the one you already have, find a nut that fits it right and you’ll learn the size and thread count.
 
Jonny said:
I’ll almost guarantee it’s a very common metric bolt or machine screw, probably under 50 cents at Home Depot/ Lowe’s.
Bring the one you already have, find a nut that fits it right and you’ll learn the size and thread count.
Click to expand...
I agree, you can always file the end off and round it again if it isn't perfect length too. They actually have little screw charts there that show the size and pitch so there's little chance of mistakes. Never heard of the cracking subject, but I fully believe it given how thin and light everything is on the saw.
 
Jonny said:
I’ll almost guarantee it’s a very common metric bolt or machine screw, probably under 50 cents at Home Depot/ Lowe’s.
Bring the one you already have, find a nut that fits it right and you’ll learn the size and thread count.
Click to expand...
I went to Ace hardware and they couldnt find me an exact fit so I just got one thats same length and number of threads but it's diameter is slightly smaller than the correct bolts but it still fits pretty tight.
I would wait for my dealer to get the shipment but im growing unhappy with these guys...only reason I gave em a chance is because the saw is under their warranty and I figured they'd make sure I got the right parts but they were short a bolt and now suggest I buy another when it comes in.
Not to mention they had my 355t since November 20th and they claim they left a message on my voicemail Dec 20 to pick it up but they didn't.
Probably take them another month to get me a bolt who knows. I know better shops but I thought getting parts from the guys I bought the saw from made sense, it's a outdoor power equipment dealer...not a hardware store come on
 
Jonny said:
I’ll almost guarantee it’s a very common metric bolt or machine screw, probably under 50 cents at Home Depot/ Lowe’s.
Bring the one you already have, find a nut that fits it right and you’ll learn the size and thread count.
Click to expand...


I was having trouble matching a bolt to the hardware store wall-mounted tool for bolt sizing. I asked for help. He pointed out that the sizing tool was 30 years old, with 30 years of wear. A new nut is a good confirmation.
 
Matthew Stone said:
I couldn't believe it either. Never had a problem with mine, only had it on for about a month now though. I have done some removals and trimming so I'd say if it was going to crack it would've by now.
Click to expand...

Yeah I imagine it'd be very very quick, and the difference between snug and "so tight it's going to crack" is wide enough that this shouldn't be much worry, I do wish I knew more about loctite/thread-locking but suspect you *don't* need the high-heat variety for locking those dogs into their plastic-slots (hell a dab of any epoxy on a ttoothpick, jammed to the bottom of the hole / NOT smeared down the side of the slot, should be enough to achieve same thread-locked state)

If in doubt I'd use thinner screws/bolts and shim them w/ plastic toothpicks, just use the toothpick to length-test the female hole 1st to ensure your screw/bolt is 1mm+ from bottoming-out!!



Matthew Stone said:
After I did a muffler mod on mine and retuned it I found it to be really jumpy when getting at thicker maples and oak, the dogs really do help for latching it in there.
Click to expand...
Interesting (and unsettling a bit..), could you elaborate on this? Both of my climbing saws have stock mufflers (well, no spark arresters as I'm in FL) but I was intending to open them up, I thought it was always a positive or neutral undertaking but your comment here has me 2nd-guessing that.....do you think it's a back-pressure dependency that's not being met anymore once the muffler's opened-up? Did you open-up the air-flow as well or just exhaust? Are the cylinder's inlet/outlet ports untouched? Thanks!



Mowerr said:
Ya I called the dealer who ordered me the parts, same place I just bought the 2511 from and same place I got my 355 from a CPL years ago and they say they didn't get a second bolt with it and they have none in stock and I'll have the pay the 2$ for it when it comes.
I knew I shoulda ordered it myself SMH.
I like Jonny's idea, I'm gonna check the hardware store and see if I can find a match.

But I'm curious if anybody else had heard what I heard about the bolts can crack your fuel tank if you torq them down too hard or they are too big?

And I need to correct myself from earlier post I said that the spikes are different size than the spikes from the cs355t. I was wrong they are the same size and do look like the same bolts.
Click to expand...

Are you still using the 355? Thing's one of my fave saws out there, would've likely gotten it if the 33cc tanaka didn't fall into my hands....do you have any reviews or anything on it? Am especially keen to hear your thoughts because, a year ago, if just buying-retail w/o much concern for price then a 2511t // 355t set would be my big&small climbing saws set, however I ended up getting a 2511 'clone' (scheppach csp2540/jon-cutter/farmertec, thing comes in 4+ badgings lol) and, upon getting my beefier 33cc/16" unit, I've found I just love my lightweight 25cc/12" and dread the thought of having a job where it'd died and I had to use 33cc/16" the whole job! But I'm a real small guy so I feel saws'-weights more than most :P
(also am surprised you said you found use of the dogs on the 2511, I removed them from my 25cc as I wanted that 10% bar-length that the dogs 'steal'/take-away, had never used them & couldn't picture myself using them! Have kept them on the 33cc/16" but intend to do a 2nd round of grinding them down to make them protrude very very slightly!)

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~


Jonny said:
I’ll almost guarantee it’s a very common metric bolt or machine screw, probably under 50 cents at Home Depot/ Lowe’s.
Bring the one you already have, find a nut that fits it right and you’ll learn the size and thread count.
Click to expand...
Matthew Stone said:
I agree, you can always file the end off and round it again if it isn't perfect length too. They actually have little screw charts there that show the size and pitch so there's little chance of mistakes. Never heard of the cracking subject, but I fully believe it given how thin and light everything is on the saw.
Click to expand...


Yup! I've gone to Ace (best big-box for random and/or precise hardware IMO) with a saw and 1 bolt in-hand because it had a hex-head and was only screw making my saw need more than a scrench for dissembly, in retrospect I'd wasted my time as since then I've seated a TON of random screws/bolts into these plastic receptacles things are almost inherently 'self-tapping' (though after a while you'd need bigger&bigger screws/bolts as you shred the plastic wider&wider)
Do you guys use / how often do you use thread-locker? I wanted to get it yesterday but they only had blue (not red, high-heat version), I got red gasket-maker and regular JB weld (good for 550deg, wonder what my engine-block hits....) and don't know whether a *tiny* dot of jb-weld on the very bottom/tip of a scew is ok or asking for trouble, am gonna set some screws into a broken unit that way to test :P
 
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