RyTheTreeGuy
Branched out member
- Location
- Canada
Cousin atrax splice how to
- Thread starter Samsquanch
- Start date
Joeybagodonuts
Participating member
- Location
- Boondocks
Hahahaha... Yes! Yes! my friend!!!
That is the whole point of the splice!! The Zig-Zag, Zillon, SpiderJack, Art positioner, smaller thimbles & rings regular DB splices have trouble threading from the ground level, etc, etc, etc..
It's not just this Cousin brand either, is FTC & Courant as well. Only ones who haven't come on board are stateside manufacturers which confuses the hell out of me & to be honest makes me think these companies need to take a look at their approach as to what they consider user friendly or cutting edge. Maybe there's a reason they not making stuff like this.. who knows.. i just think it has to do with a companies ability to innovate & look past traditional methods.
Does that turn your grumpy pants into happy pants?
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ARLO
Branched out member
OK, now I gotta learn it.
Joeybagodonuts
Participating member
- Location
- Boondocks
Hahaha... When you got it figured out & somewhat documented please fill us in!!
Nugreen up in Canada is doing Drenaline splices that break way higher than a Slaice.. there's a recipe floating around a chosen few's hands & I'm waiting patiently for it to leak... Common' Wiki leaks, get us the recipe!
Samsquanch
Participating member
- Location
- australia
Jave spoken to a couple people at redbull who have done this kind of splice. It's essentially a complex straight burry, going to extrapolate some measurements and give it a shot when i get back home. Will post results.
Joeybagodonuts
Participating member
- Location
- Boondocks
Redbull?
Like Redbull gives you wings, Redbull? They have the deets on this splice??
If you end up disecting your splice make sure to take some pics!
Like Redbull gives you wings, Redbull? They have the deets on this splice??
If you end up disecting your splice make sure to take some pics!
Samsquanch
Participating member
- Location
- australia
Lol sorry i mean the redbull climbing competition
Samsquanch
Participating member
- Location
- australia
Found the patent.
FR3061211A1 - ROPE AND METHOD FOR MANUFACTURING SAID ROPE - Google Patents
The present invention relates to a rope (1) comprising a braided tubular main sheath (3), comprising at least n plaited wicks, and having an inner volume (5), and a braided tubular main core (7), comprising at least p wicks braided, housed in said inner volume (5) of the main sheath (3), n and p...
patents.google.com
SomethingWitty
Arkansawyer
- Location
- LR
That almost seems like cheating.
Samsquanch
Participating member
- Location
- australia
It's definitely just double braid.
I just got a short chunk with the splice to dissect. I found five whipping twine ends, the first thread and the three through six threads from the throat. The second thread looks like it goes over a cover strand on purpose and might exit at the first thread, as it is directly across from it. Each of the ends happened at a reduction in diameter.
The diameter is the same from the sixth thread exit, until at eleven inches from the throat, where it reduces slightly, and continues to do so at intervals, for I think eight feet.
Definitely whipping twine, they sent a sample by tying a tag on the rope with it.
The diameter is the same from the sixth thread exit, until at eleven inches from the throat, where it reduces slightly, and continues to do so at intervals, for I think eight feet.
Definitely whipping twine, they sent a sample by tying a tag on the rope with it.
Samsquanch
Participating member
- Location
- australia
ok, so, running through the patent i have the following draft instructions, these will be in metric.
mark 200mm from end
Mark 400mm from end
Mark 600mm from end (between this and last mark is un reduced internal component and will extend to 300mm with core removed.)
measure length of eye desired from 650mm mark (75mm~3" works well)
extract core at the end of the eye measurement
milk rope till no movement
mark on core where exits from jacket
pull core from jacket
mark 300mm on core from exit mark further down the rope
mark 500mm on core from exit mark further down the rope
mark on core 700mm from the exit mark further down the rope
from this point remove 50% of core fibers
from second mark on jacket (2nd closest to end of rope) remove 50% of fibers
crossover these reduced sections of core and jacket at the 200mm marks made pulling the ends out at the point of reduction
milk assembly and ensure 200mm marks align (first mark on reduced section from reduction point)
trim remaining ends protruding from crossover burry and milk to set these inside the core/sheath, these ends should meet the points where the reduction of fibers was done smoothly when under load or extend slightly with a taper to the point where the reduction was done to prevent noticeable bumps at these point.
while holding crossover to prevent movement millk rope to pull assembly into sheath
zig zag hidden whip 150mm from the eye down the rope
Note for reduction points and ends i of burried lengths, tapering over a couple of inches gives the best results
Please add to, adjust, make suggestions etc for these instructions. the burry lengths are directly from the patent and should be made no shorter
and my AHEM....amazing drawing skills.....
mark 200mm from end
Mark 400mm from end
Mark 600mm from end (between this and last mark is un reduced internal component and will extend to 300mm with core removed.)
measure length of eye desired from 650mm mark (75mm~3" works well)
extract core at the end of the eye measurement
milk rope till no movement
mark on core where exits from jacket
pull core from jacket
mark 300mm on core from exit mark further down the rope
mark 500mm on core from exit mark further down the rope
mark on core 700mm from the exit mark further down the rope
from this point remove 50% of core fibers
from second mark on jacket (2nd closest to end of rope) remove 50% of fibers
crossover these reduced sections of core and jacket at the 200mm marks made pulling the ends out at the point of reduction
milk assembly and ensure 200mm marks align (first mark on reduced section from reduction point)
trim remaining ends protruding from crossover burry and milk to set these inside the core/sheath, these ends should meet the points where the reduction of fibers was done smoothly when under load or extend slightly with a taper to the point where the reduction was done to prevent noticeable bumps at these point.
while holding crossover to prevent movement millk rope to pull assembly into sheath
zig zag hidden whip 150mm from the eye down the rope
Note for reduction points and ends i of burried lengths, tapering over a couple of inches gives the best results
Please add to, adjust, make suggestions etc for these instructions. the burry lengths are directly from the patent and should be made no shorter
and my AHEM....amazing drawing skills.....
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Samsquanch
Participating member
- Location
- australia
Finished one next to normal db splice on a scrap piece of tachyo
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Samsquanch
Participating member
- Location
- australia
Pretty much on point. I converted to inches to do my splice and those measurements are what i got
Mystery solveded..ded
Thanks heaps for the dissection!
I think there is a mistake in your instructions for where the core exits. It should be at the first mark below the eye, where the cover reduction starts.
The patent helped a lot with knowing what I was looking at while slitting the cover. I posted earlier that I thought the bury went for eight feet, come to find out it was an imbalance of the core and cover after the splicing. The diameter change disappeared after opening up the cover.
The patent helped a lot with knowing what I was looking at while slitting the cover. I posted earlier that I thought the bury went for eight feet, come to find out it was an imbalance of the core and cover after the splicing. The diameter change disappeared after opening up the cover.
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Samsquanch
Participating member
- Location
- australia
Makes sense to me, i think my wording might be a bit confusing
Joeybagodonuts
Participating member
- Location
- Boondocks
Brock.. u ever think about doing a YouTube channel with your experiments? I mean, you put a lot of effort into this stuff & actually follow through with testing afterwards so you know what works & what doesn't... If you played your cards right, you could probably make some paper with advertisers to offset your "heathy" addiction...lol..
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