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Can you post a closeup of the terminations? Kinda hard to see on that pic.The next version, a little bigger with two more holes. The hitch cord captures the carabiner now. The extra holes provide sharp bends that cause enough friction to take weight off of the stopper knots, making them very easy to untie now. As a result there is less lengthening of the legs, like the first version, as the stoppers tightened up when loaded.
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I said tuefelberger?View attachment 61084
An overhand knot for testing, might be all that’s needed with the sharp bend.
Yes, Petzl’s, and this is.....?
That bridge is the and is that red Kern hitch cord sterling too?The following is greatly inspired by the most excellent idea of the dogbone from the Hitch Hiker. Just put the friction hitch legs through the holes and tie stoppers.
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After a few more complicated designs, this was the simplest, and seems the best for this type of design. With the small plate, hitch cords don’t need eyes or have to be a set length to function on certain hitches. The VT, and other hitches will be improve by being able to adjust the leg length. This would also make for cheaper hitch cords for those that buy eyed cords now. This is the first design I was able to make with what I had on hand. There will be a couple others when I get some more aluminum chunks. Here are a couple other ways to use.
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Nice idea, makes it much easier to make, and use without having to tie the stoppers each time. I made another six hole version with a v groove to possibly generate friction while descending. Needs more testing and to see if the plate could also act as a shock absorber.@Brocky , if you made the two holes adjacent to the carabiner joined into a slot could to then eliminate the need to untie and retie your stopper knot? The slot would allow you to push a bight through and capture it with the biner. You could do one or both sides that way.

You are definitely onto something but here brockyNice idea, makes it much easier to make, and use without having to tie the stoppers each time. I made another six hole version with a v groove to possibly generate friction while descending. Needs more testing and to see if the plate could also act as a shock absorber.
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The rigging ring is used instead of a pulley, or the small strap for tending.
In the first post, both bridge and hitch cord are Sterling’s. The other red and black cord is Bluewater 7mm static cord, I’ve been trying to make the cover looser to make it more flexible, it wouldn’t grab as it comes off the reel, as it is too stiff.
I agree with you, I don’t see a huge advantage over tying loops in the end, however, tgis last iteration seems promising, because the stoppers won't tighten much.They say necessity is the mother of all invention. What is the need for this new friction hybrid dog bone paw thing? Or another way to ask the question is, what problem with the current eye to eye micro pulley fair lead systems that we currently use are you trying to solve?
So far it looks like you're switching from stitched or tied eye n eyes, to stopper knots. Beyond that this looks very congested to me. Pics don't always translate the story very well though.
Will this new friction setup be used for Ddrt (MRS) or SRT or both?
I still don't see any advantage of the regular dogbone over tied eyes, maybe I'd see one of I tried it. The version with the six holes is what looks best to me, that way the knots are easier to untie than regular fishermans loops or stoppers.The difference in price between a four foot length of hitch cord and what is charged for a sewn or spliced cord is one reason. Another is the length of the legs can be adjusted, which can fine tune a finicky Hitch like the VT. With the slot idea, the ideal length for the hitched used, and the stoppers can be be preset, you only need to clip in.