Rope Runner hard to advance?

david1332

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So recently my rope runner has become harder to tend while I ascend in my rope walker system. Any ideas why? I'm climbing on Teufelburger Tachyon with a base anchor. I no Ice it tends to flatten out slightly even wih the flexfirm technology, but it always works itself back to round.

I love my rope runner but this is beginning to bother me as I ascend
 
Maybe have you looked for sap? Last week I was up a white spruce on the N side of a house in the shade and it was still winter dry but the spruce in the backyard was already starting the sap stream. I've climbed on white Edelrid and really couldn't see the sap until it got dirty but switched to a black tactical rope and you see the sap really stand out.
I like the RR cause it's easy for me to clean (use isopropnol to get the conifer sap off).
Other thing, is the spring working OK? Richard Mumford had a YouTube video about the need for the RR spring to be functional.
 
So recently my rope runner has become harder to tend while I ascend in my rope walker system. Any ideas why? I'm climbing on Teufelburger Tachyon with a base anchor. I no Ice it tends to flatten out slightly even wih the flexfirm technology, but it always works itself back to round.

I love my rope runner but this is beginning to bother me as I ascend

I wonder if spending the dough on that alternative wheel bearing pully, if I'm calling it by the correct term, would make any difference?

Tim

Edit: Here's a link.

http://www.treestuff.com/store/catalog.asp?item=15954
 
David, Richard Mumford (again) had a video also about stance/ leg positioning/ posture while using SRT. Aside from the above (and I hadn't seen the bearing pulley - cool), your clip point seems higher up on your chest, than mine anyway, which if you're leaning back (or have your legs more in front of you, rather than vertical) this'd put more friction into the RR on the up I think. As an experiment maybe try two biners (low and slow) - if you're leaning back this'll take some leverage off maybe by moving the attachment point down. My RR's literally zoom up the line, including tachyon, KM III, Blaze - all 11 -11.5 mm.
As an aside, I use Petzl Ange S biners for all my clip ins - they don't have a ridge or lip and are really easy to get out of for SAKA foot clip or chest harness. You might like these.
http://www.treestuff.com/store/catalog.asp?category_id=128&item=2212
I also run my RR's with two 1/2 pieces of rubber tubing, one on each leg of the bird at the top of the RR - makes it easier on my thumbs going down (and maybe helps prevent anything getting stuck in the "slot" which was the subject of another Buzz thread a short time ago).
 
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I was playing around with it yesterday and figured it had to be my tending pint causing the problem. I'll try it lower, I figure the higher up the better, which would allow me to take bigger steps with my ropewalker sustem, I use a HAAS and CT foot ascender and stay pretty straight when I'm ascending.
 
I was playing around with it yesterday and figured it had to be my tending pint causing the problem. I'll try it lower, I figure the higher up the better, which would allow me to take bigger steps with my ropewalker sustem, I use a HAAS and CT foot ascender and stay pretty straight when I'm ascending.
I found resistance with the tending point on the runner being lopsided. I have a throw line loop running to the other side of the slick pin. More symmetrical
 
Here is how I tend mine. I got this idea from an earlier post on treebuzz - can't recall who it was who posted it. I am not sure if the manufacturer would approve, but it works for me.

DSC_0694.webp
 
Also, were are you connecting your knee ascender. that can pull tension into the lower friction point on ascent.
 

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