Saw purchase help

RIVIEZZO TREE EXPERTS said:
Go with a 660/661. I run all stilhls doing tree work and all husky at the wood pile. For years I climbed with a 3120 with 36" bar doing the trunks on tulips threw out Westchester county. For me I want the power, I'm not gonna waste money on ms250's etc, were tree workers not florists You need to determine what species of trees your cutting mostly to the saw you buy. You can run bigger bar on smaller power head in soft woods. Ex 460 with 32" bar. That combo cutting hard sugar maple n hickory will not last long. I have 2 460's with 28" bars we use mainly on soft woods. It's better to have more power for the bar then less power n demand more bar.
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Just curious but, whats the factor that puts the Stihls on site and keeps the Huskys in the wood pile for you? i think I recall reading this in one of your older posts. BTW hows that Mobark? Did you recondition it or just service it?
 
it just works out that way. i use all stihl top handle saws climbing, and i like climbing with 460's how they feel with 20-28" bars. husky's seem a little more rugged being at the yard cutting in rain and snow and the mud etc. the morbark is great,its extremely powerful. it is very heavy though. but i have no more waste wood. i have just serviced it now and do lil repairs have been too busy. hoping to paint it this winter and fix a few things
 
Age old question with many answers lol.

A great all around saw is the 460 with a 24-32 inch bar. Can be used in tree on bigger cuts also can flush those big stumps without crying like a baby. My old 044 has made me the most money of any tool i think besides maybe the throwline and polesaw.

The 562XP Husky has my mouth watering, best power to weight I've experienced in a stock saw. Can easily handle a 24" bar and feels like a feather compared to the 460, And they're under $800 too.

In regards to side chain tensioners: get over it! Stihl came out with that about 1990 and the others have followed their lead so now every newb who sees a 395 can't figure it out or simply says "that sucks". But in truth the front position tensioning screw is as old as the chainsaw itself and has always worked great. The 395 still uses it because they haven't changed that model in like 20 yrs, that's why I prefer it for my big saw over the "new and improved" 064-066-660-661 Stihl keeps changing a good thing - like how 'bout those new oil caps? (the caps on the new MS-150T work flawless BTW, finally)
 
It took me a little adjusting to get used to the newer oil/fuel caps. After about a week using them I love 'em. Never needs assistance to open like a screw oil cap can from the vacuum created from running the saw out.
 
So we're leaning towards the 562xp with 28" b&c. 3/8", .050 Thsts,what I'm pushing for. I'm curious from around the country what prices you guys get on that combo, new. It's a little over $700 at my local shop. He'd like a wrap handle too so have to add that in
 
Personally I feel like 28" is a bit much bar on a 562 unless all you do is softwoods or aerial work. I think it'd be an awesome crane saw but 24" is maybe better for all around use. If you're wanting something to pull that 28 my vote is 576xp or 461.
 
562 with a 28" bar is an awesome saw. Keep your chain sharp and it will pull thru oak no problem. Do a muffler mod and it really shines.
 
So I stumbled across what I hope is a sweet deal on a 576xp. Family in need of cash, saw just out of shop with a tuneup and carb rebuild kit, says compression is good. $325 with a 20" B&C. Pretty cheap medical issues and need money so desperate times.
What I'm wondering is, are the compression testers from say advanced auto, or auto zone any good for checking a saw. I know I can do the field test and hold the pull cord/drop test, but I'd like to see the numbers. I can also get a peak atbthe cylinder abd look for scoring while there.Saw is running and cutting and wasn't used for tree work. I'm hoping it turns out to be a great deal. Anything else I can do on site to hopefully endsure I'm not getting boned. My partner is pretty good with the mechanical stuff, but I don't want to miss anything
 
As long as you don't get a dirt cheap model. My tester is from autozone and works fine, they had it for sale behind the counter. Check the piston through the exhaust and look through the spark plug hole at cylinder wall and top of piston. Being a small flashlight and scrench. Bring fresh mix or a can of pre mix to try to start it in case the owner has none. Don't trust the gas in the saw if you buy it dump it and start fresh.


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I was planning on the exhaust check and plug. Will bring gas, tools, and the tester my local place has is like $40? 14mm ad 18mm with a few other adapters
 
Raven27 said:
I was planning on the exhaust check and plug. Will bring gas, tools, and the tester my local place has is like $40? 14mm ad 18mm with a few other adapters
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Sounds like the same kit, flexible hose and it has to have a one way valve at the tip.


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Question
If your making cuts in wood 16" diameter or greater needing pwr and speed to avoid disaster?
90cc or greater is absolutely necessary from experience
 
Raven27 said:
Don't know if it's auto tune, thinking back it may have said non AT. I'm sure I can look it up, but is a muffler mod pretty easy?
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There's no baffle, the muffler is just a can. I drilled a few holes in the outlet then dremeled the rest of the area under the deflector out. It's not too much louder but definitely revs up a bit quicker and has more grunt with the bar buried.
I am a big fan of autotune, the 576 is the one that starts like a normal saw. My 540 and 550 both like fast idle to restart, the 576 starts right up and runs strong right away. Also the smoothest saw I have ever run. They aren't as revered as the 372 and they definitely are not as light, but they're more powerful and a bit smoother to run. Balances perfectly with a 28" and husky says you can run a 32. Was my big saw for a long time until I bought a 394.
 
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