What can I or we do to get a better file on our chains?

Christrees

Been here a while
Location
New York
I’m not saying I can’t file my saw I can but I always feel there’s room for improvement. I don’t have any pics right now I’m at work and have been crazy busy. Been meaning to chain my gas line on my ms250 guess I’m going to have to pick it up and take it home and do it.

But back to sharpening saws.. does anyone have any tips and tricks they have gotten from loggers? I’ve heard loggers could sharpen a damn saw. Idk good too to chat about.


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Once I hit a rock or something it always seems like I can’t get my chain back to where it’s supposed to be.. but it I’m just touching it up after cutting a few trees it’s easy to keep the angle. But when the angel gets changed and trying to get it back to the correct angel Seems like it can be hard sometimes not always but.

I have only used round files but have want to experience with triangle files or then a flat file. That’s more like something a logger would do but they really cut.

Also how to file hand saws like a zubat I have the file but idk how to die it


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Square files is supposed to be where it's at...but I haven't gotten into that.

One of the more productive loggers I work with just swaps chains out and then puts them on the bench grinder at the shop later...none of the other guys do that, but he does a great job and works at a good pace so I'm not gonna argue.

Another tip I observed from another logger: to hold the saw at a at the perfect height in the woods, he makes a vertical (think ripping cut) bore into a +/-8" diameter tree and "hangs" the saw there while sharpening. This technique is frowned upon when pruning in someone's front yard, FWIW.

The thing that I felt helped me maybe the most: quality files and frequent replacement. Pferd classic have become my file of choice. I keep a small wire brush on hand to clean them out periodically as well.

I also really like the Pferd 2-in-1 file guide. I've used other guides and they are less useful or more cumbersome to use.
 
Square files is supposed to be where it's at...but I haven't gotten into that.

One of the more productive loggers I work with just swaps chains out and then puts them on the bench grinder at the shop later...none of the other guys do that, but he does a great job and works at a good pace so I'm not gonna argue.

Another tip I observed from another logger: to hold the saw at a at the perfect height in the woods, he makes a vertical (think ripping cut) bore into a +/-8" diameter tree and "hangs" the saw there while sharpening. This technique is frowned upon when pruning in someone's front yard, FWIW.

The thing that I felt helped me maybe the most: quality files and frequent replacement. Pferd classic have become my file of choice. I keep a small wire brush on hand to clean them out periodically as well.

I also really like the Pferd 2-in-1 file guide. I've used other guides and they are less useful or more cumbersome to use.

Good info thanks I’ve wanted to try 1 of those I tend to keep my files for too long even I notice it. But I’ve wanted to try the new Stihl double sharpener.

It’s just depending how you are setup it can be hard to keep the right angle. We don’t always have bench or vise. Then it tends to get hard to keep the angel


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I have 1 Still and 1 Pferd. They are identical except for color so I gotta believe Pferd makes both. It works out great as they are each a different size so it's easy to grab the correct file.

Holding the saw still is a big thing too.

I got this little vise that I screw into the tailgate and it's been great, but is unfortunately no longer available:

 
Yeah I just recently got a vise you can mail into a stump or log and threes mad the bar threw. Works really great actually. My main thing is how is the angle my filing hand supposed to be at. Like straight and level ?, upward angle?, or downward angel which is easier to do without realizing.


There’s probably a bunch of little tips and tricks silly things that cold make out sharpening better we just have to come together and share.


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tooth length can vary, it‘s just important that each raker is set properly in relation to its cutter.

stihl and oregon chains have the thirty degree laser etched on each tooth which makes it easier to stay consistent.

practice and post some pictures so it‘s easier to see what‘s lacking.
 
Yeah I just recently got a vise you can mail into a stump or log and threes mad the bar threw. Works really great actually. My main thing is how is the angle my filing hand supposed to be at. Like straight and level ?, upward angle?, or downward angel which is easier to do without realizing.


There’s probably a bunch of little tips and tricks silly things that cold make out sharpening better we just have to come together and share.


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I have a stump vise too. My challenge with that is that I don't always have a stump to stick it in...

Ask for angle, some chains you are supposed to file level, others have a 10° down angle to them. I have a mix of both. I just file everything level... I haven't done any kind of controlled experiment to figure out if that's hurting me. However, I don't ever feel like a chain that is freshly sharpened isn't during what it's supposed to be doing. When buying new chains now, I try to find one that don't say to use a down angle.
 
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tooth length can vary, it‘s just important that each raker is set properly in relation to its cutter.

True. There are so many misconceptions about raker height. The gap is relative to the tooth ahead and behind the cutter. This is one of the reasons that the Pferd file guide works so well.

That double clamp saw vise would be easy and cheap to fabricate. CLever idea.
 
Shove a wedge between the chain and the bottom of your bar before you sharpen. It keeps the tooth upright and tight against the bar.
All my saws above 50cc are square grind. I can tell you a few things about that. First, if you are cutting mostly hardwoods I would forget the square grind. It is super fast for cutting pines, spruces, and firs, but not so hot for hardwoods. Second, if you are someone who like to steer their cut, you can't with a square grind. How you start the cut is how it is going to end, no tweaking as you go. Third, if you are having trouble filing round I would skip the square grind. It is a whole new ball game and takes precise and patient work with excellent light. Fourth, if you are attempting a plunge cut with a square grind be ready for some serious kickback until you get the hang of it. It is five time more likely to do that than the round grind chains. Also, square grind dulls faster. If you hit a piece of metal, you had better have the patience of a saint.
I deal with mostly aspen, spruce and balsam, the square grind shines with those. If I was cutting maples, oaks, or similar wood I would not have them on my saws.
 
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And not all hand saws can be sharpened. The Zubat cannot be sharpened, where the Sugoi can be. I have a Samurai Ichiban which can be sharpened and it only takes 5 minutes, with good results.
Agreed....I'll sharpen Sugoi and Hayate blades +/-3-4 times before replacing them. Though it takes me closer to 20 minutes...

I have sharpened impulse hardened blades with a tiny diamond grinding blade on a Dremel tool. However I find it much harder to hold that and get a good angle so I've given up on those and just replace when needed.
 
Pictures of your before and after, especially magnified, will help.




Good lighting and good eyesight, natural or corrected, is important, as Mick mentioned.

The wedge under the chain helps.

File with the power head upside down on a vise, filing from the nose-end, on the bottom of the bar.
 
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....

File with the power head upside down on a vise, filing from the nose-end, on the bottom of the bar.
Help me understand the upside down. I know some folks do right side up one way then upside down the other side. I just do it with the power head on my left, then power head on my left.

That does bring up another tip though....I didn't know to flip it for a while and it makes it easier to do it right handed both ways.
 
I have a stump vise too. My challenge with that is that I don't always have a stump to stick it in...

Ask for angle, some chains you are supposed to file level, others have a 10° down angle to them. I have a mix of both. I just file everything level... I haven't done any kind of controlled experiment to figure out if that's hurting me. However, I don't ever feel like a chain that is freshly sharpened isn't during what it's supposed to be doing. When buying new chains now, I try to find one that don't say to use a down angle.
Dunno if this helps but if you look up the mfgr's chain specs online (or on the box if it's Oregon for example) it'll give you all their recommended angles for filing and file diameter. I too use Pferd files - really nice metal and they cut like skunk and last too. Stump vice works or metal vice indoors or custom silly stand jig thingy I made up for outdoors (for old eyes you can't beat sunlight for detail work I figger).
 
I have a stump vise too. My challenge with that is that I don't always have a stump to stick it in...
Agree. Always thought this was the stupidest name for a tool. How are you supposed to have a stump available if your chain won’t cut?

I get decent results just shoving the stump vise into the ground, as long as it’s not too wet. Holds the bar well enough for a touch up. Actually, with a good/new file and a file guide I can usually save the day. Sharp files are imperative. Lots of new guys keep trying to “sharpen” chains with dull files. Never gonna happen. After a while you can tell if the file is cutting immediately both by feel and sound. One of those things only experience teaches.
 

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