Very Small Maple as an Anchor

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OK, so I'll leave the maple alone. Can anyone provide a link for these pickets?

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Soil structure is a major consideration for using any ground anchoring system. Keep in mind, the shallower the rope angle, the better.
I have used 4' ground anchors (turn in dish type) with good success in Chicago soils. Much easier and faster set up than pickets. In Chicagoland, they are available at most Landscape supply stores.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002YOQ...57DZCRYMF0FP4Q5

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I bought these at <font color="blue"><u>Lowe's (link)</u></font> ... might do the trick:

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Also, T-posts make pretty good pickets ... easy in, easy out

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Have you watched the GRCS video? That's actually where I got the idea. But really, the GRCS as a winch is nothing more than a machine for increasing mechanical advantage. There's nothing wrong with being creative, so long as we're safe when we do so.

My problem, of course, is the lack of a bomb-proof anchor.
 
This whole thing sounds crazy to me. Let's say you do successfully tip the tree over with its roots still attached you're still going to have to dig out the rest. Close to half probably.

Why not notch and drop it then grind the stump????? Explain to the customer that trying to do what is being proposed is kind of dangerous, unpredictable, and may result in damage to his/her home.

I see that you are in Ma, how far away can a suitable tree possibly be? Is it a farm or something? I doubt that's the case because every farmer I know would have already ripped it out of the ground with a tractor. I think you should show pics of the site and tree that way people know what this situation actually looks like.

Sorry if I'm coming off as a jerk but this just seems like a hair brain scheme.

Oh yeah, where are you planning on mounting the GRCS?
 
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Have you watched the GRCS video? That's actually where I got the idea. But really, the GRCS as a winch is nothing more than a machine for increasing mechanical advantage. There's nothing wrong with being creative, so long as we're safe when we do so.

My problem, of course, is the lack of a bomb-proof anchor.

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I haven't seen the video, no.

By all means, experiment... and post some pics.

In my work experience, this sounds like:

A. something I'd try in my own yard with beer...

B. something the foreman would cook up to kill the whole day, and then we'd get in trouble for...

or

C. something I'd find my crew doing that would cause me to blow my stack.
 
Without pictures or at least a height/DBH of the cedar we're all just guessing.

I took on jobs like this many times if they fit into the schedule. This could be a good one to make a training day for the crew. Setting up pickets isn't necessary very often. What's to loose if costs are at least covered in the job. The overhead can be covered in training expenses.

There were few landscape cedars that I ever came across that couldn't have been pulled if the was the only possibility. I have a two ton ratcheting chain hoist that had some serious ooomph! Since I know how much the chain hoist would pull when it is anchored solidly we could get a rough idea of how much a picket system could hold. Adding more pickets, either in line or in fanned configurations is a decent way to learn a new skill.
 
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I hestitate to even ask...

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That's how I started this thread. Honestly, I will probably just cut the tree and grind the stump.

But, I thought it would be a good learning opportunity since (1) the job is for a friend, (2) on a Saturday, and (3) if it doesn't work, then I'll simply cut the tree and grind or dig the stump. And if nothing else, some of you made some good points (e.g. pickets, which never crossed my mind), so I've already learned something.

As to the question about nearby trees, there are some, but they're in a neighbor's yard across a busy street. As to where I will mount the GRCS, I contemplated parking it right on the arborvitae (thoughts? insults? Discussion?). In the alternative, I could redirect to a tree on the side of the house (in-line with the small maple/picket system, but not in-line with the tree I'm removing).
 
i agree with kevin just rip the mother humper out with a truck and drink a couple of brews with your home boy, knock the dirt back into the hole and go cash the check.
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How big is this arb? I've damn near pulled out stuff to 7-8" diameter in semi-sandy soils by hand. Leave a tall stump, rock it around, get a few roots broken, and voila!
 
Sorry to disappoint...in the end I cut the tree and ground/dug out the stump.

But I'm very glad to have learned about the pickets. I was surprised to read the amount of force they can withstand (see the link posted by Fairfield).
 
Lots of good ideas for anchors. The one thing I haven't heard mentioned is being certain of underground untilities- gas, electric, drainfield- before driving a 3-4'picket into the ground near a house.
 
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Sorry to disappoint...in the end I cut the tree and ground/dug out the stump.

But I'm very glad to have learned about the pickets. I was surprised to read the amount of force they can withstand (see the link posted by Fairfield).

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And you can always add anchor stakes with changes in applied force or soil conditions.

Rebar works well ans an anchor stake. Add in a few carrabiners, loopies and a rigging plate
 
if you use it i suggest 3 guy ropes 1 straight back and 1 on each 45 so you have an anchor but spread out the pull. i haven't seen the site but if thats the only tree could you get a truck in there for an anchor. or if there are larger trees out of line run a rope between them and use a butterfly knot for an anchor point mid line to pull from but if you do that i recommend tentioning the anchor line between the 2 big trees
 
this thread was somewhat interesting about the pickets and I'm glad to have learned about them.

but, I thought right away, why not use a duckbill D88 anchor, (just one needed), faster and just cut the cable off 2" below ground when done with it.

yeah, cost you $15 or $20 bucks for the lost anchor, but fast to drive in, and off the top of my head, holds like close to 5000 lbs. In most soils (I'm not going to look up and post actual amount just to look smart).
 
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