Unicender wear - too much too soon?

[samsquatch]

Hey gang. Question on the current amount of wear on my Uni - there is some aluminum material being displaced on the top plate where the rope is run in control mode decent, and a little on each link "plate". I realize that a Drum from C.I. will help with the top plate wear.

But otherwise, do you think in general that after a dozen climbs, this wear is too much too soon, and should I be concerned that my rope is too abrasive?
The rope (Tachyon) was fairly dusty when I got it, like it was neglected in mud once. I washed it with warm water and a mild shampoo in a bathtub prior to me using it - and still after running it thru the Uni I see dust collecting between the plates that's being smooshed out of the rope fibers.

Video for reference:

Thanks for any assistance!
Cheers
SAM

 

[Tom Dunlap]

Before I got the Drum installed I had a groove worn in the top clutch from wrapping

Never a concern about its function to me

Machine washing is always a good idea Set it to wash on Large so you have lots of water to float out the abrasives

The visible wear doesn't look significant. If you start ton have a little creepage you'll know it's time for a larger diameter rope.

Get a Drum. It's worth it for greatly reducing wear and better descent control

 

[ghostice]

Our recipe (others may have better):
First remove sap with 95% isopropanol on a clean white rag and inspect rope along the way.
Second, we use rope washers for gritted up ropes:
http://www.treestuff.com/store/catalog.asp?item=131
Third use a rope washing bag in your front load washing machine, mildy warm water, not hot (less than 30 degC or something is recommended)
http://www.treestuff.com/store/catalog.asp?item=1104
Can't beat this stuff for rope washing - I think Teufelberger nailed it.
https://www.honeybros.com/Item/Teufelberger_SCRUBBA
http://www.treestuff.com/store/catalog.asp?item=16739
Lifts dirt/oil outa chainsaw pants that are standing up by themselves too . . . (don't use a washing machine though)
Hang rope to air dry, out of the sun (do not spin dry)
http://www.wesspur.com/rope-inspection.html
Rope washers and rope detergent should get grit out of even gritted up climbing ropes - the absolute worst I've had is glacial till (rock flour) ground into wet ropes on glacier trips in the summer - after 5 or 6 raps down, the aluminum of the ATC's had a grove worn right into them - the rope was like sandpaper . . . .
Cheers all

 

[Stephen Moore]

I used to be a hard core rock climber in the early years! Many wasted years solo aiding granite multi pitch. We used to wash our ropes a fair bit because the base of the routes were filthy with fine granite dust, which is brutal on the core of a rope. We found the best way to clean them was to fill the tub with warmish water and very dilute Sunlite dishwashing detergent. We would leave the ropes in the tub for several hours going back periodically to swish them around for a few minutes. The ropes would spend the night in the tub and be hung in tree branches in the shade to dry. The amount of filth that gravitates out of the ropes over night was staggering.

 

[Stephen Moore]

Our recipe (others may have better):
First remove sap with 95% isopropanol on a clean white rag and inspect rope along the way.
Second, we use rope washers for gritted up ropes:
http://www.treestuff.com/store/catalog.asp?item=131
Third use a rope washing bag in your front load washing machine, mildy warm water, not hot (less than 30 degC or something is recommended)
http://www.treestuff.com/store/catalog.asp?item=1104
Can't beat this stuff for rope washing - I think Teufelberger nailed it.
https://www.honeybros.com/Item/Teufelberger_SCRUBBA
http://www.treestuff.com/store/catalog.asp?item=16739
Lifts dirt/oil outa chainsaw pants that are standing up by themselves too . . . (don't use a washing machine though)
Hang rope to air dry, out of the sun (do not spin dry)
http://www.wesspur.com/rope-inspection.html
Rope washers and rope detergent should get grit out of even gritted up climbing ropes - the absolute worst I've had is glacial till (rock flour) ground into wet ropes on glacier trips in the summer - after 5 or 6 raps down, the aluminum of the ATC's had a grove worn right into them - the rope was like sandpaper . . . .
Cheers all

Never clean oil outa chainsaw pants man... it keeps them waterproof!

 

[John@TreeXP]

I've been using my Uni for rec climbing exclusively, mostly srt and doing 50'-75' ascents and descents on about six climbs so far this season with minimal wear and no slippage on my HTP 11mm and Edelrid Static 11mm. For now, it's my primary multicender and I plan on using it when I climb at the CR tree climbing rendezvous for a couple weeks later this summer. I'll bring my Hitch Hiker too, just in case. Still, I'm curious too as to how long my Uni will hold up. I'd imagine a few climbing seasons, at least, during the dry months in the PNW and until the Rope Runner or the Akimbo becomes a viable replacement.

 

[Stephen Moore]

I've been using my Uni for rec climbing exclusively, mostly srt and doing 50'-75' ascents and descents on about six climbs so far this season with minimal wear and no slippage on my HTP 11mm and Edelrid Static 11mm. For now, it's my primary multicender and I plan on using it when I climb at the CR tree climbing rendezvous for a couple weeks later this summer. I'll bring my Hitch Hiker too, just in case. Still, I'm curious too as to how long my Uni will hold up. I'd imagine a few climbing seasons, at least, during the dry months in the PNW and until the Rope Runner or the Akimbo becomes a viable replacement.

Have you installed the drum on your device yet?

 

[John@TreeXP]

Have you installed the drum on your device yet?

No. I probably should, but I'm happy with the original design

 

[Stephen Moore]

No. I probably should, but I'm happy with the original design

I just installed it today, with 5 minute epoxy and the supplied rivets and supplied drill bit! took less than 1/2 an hour. It does run smoother, and the added soft lock is a nice feature. When you combine that with less wear and tear I think its money well spent.