SRS Redirects

ARLO

ARLO

Branched out member
I have been experimenting with different SRS retrievable redirects of late, and of the four I have tried so far, the one I like best is the one demonstrated on Youtube by Timberwolf in 2015. It is incredibly simple and is easy to rig and retrieve. If you have not tried it, here is the link to his demo.

 
I just looked at one of Richard's Mumford's videos from 2015 and he shows variations that are essentially identical to the method used by Timberwolf. I guess great minds think alike?

 
I switched from using a ring to the SCAM method also for short redirects. It does work really well and having a nice pulley-carabiner on the saddle has many uses.

Probably just my climbing style, but I just don't seem to need or use retrievable redirects very often.
 
@DSMc I agree about not needing them very often, what I do need often is one that can be retrieved once I'm on the ground. This obviously works better with a basetie. If I can't use a natural redirect, I use a sling with two carabiners, and clip a small accessory biner on the retrieval side through the biner and around the rope. Basically a ring and ring, but midline attachable.
I'm sure I'd agree about finding many uses for a pulley carabiner, if I had one.
 
I do base ties 99.9% of the time, so most of my redirects are both, simple natural and retrievable. What I find I need more often is bracing and support for the redirect limb. This can be done by taking a bite of your line, pulling it tight on the redirect and then tying it off with a hitch. This can give the redirect some much needed support and prevent a side loading that can happen with a sliding redirect. Obviously non-retrievable, but these tend to be short work stations out on the tips.
 
@climbstihl any way you could post a pic of that or sketch it? Not visualizing it fully but like the idea of midline attaching and retrieving with a sling and biners. Nice to utilize the extras one usually has on their saddle.
 
@Serf Life Sure, here is a pic that should get it across. The door handle is the redirect limb, the friction hitch is where you would be, the right leg is going to your anchor. The wrench is just in there to separate the biners so you can see what's going on. To retrieve, just tie an overhand knot in the end (HMS carabiner recommended for easier retrieval with thick lines like my 12mm) or use a retriaval ball that won't fit through the accesory carabiner.
I would've done it outside in a tree, but the wind is blowing really 20190309_172602.webphard here.
 
climbstihl said:
@Serf Life Sure, here is a pic that should get it across. The door handle is the redirect limb, the friction hitch is where you would be, the right leg is going to your anchor. The wrench is just in there to separate the biners so you can see what's going on. To retrieve, just tie an overhand knot in the end (HMS carabiner recommended for easier retrieval with thick lines like my 12mm) or use a retriaval ball that won't fit through the accesory carabiner.
I would've done it outside in a tree, but the wind is blowing really View attachment 57969hard here.
Click to expand...
If you do the same thing with a Petzl Rollclip on one side and a Pinto Pulley on the other side it works even better and has almost zero friction on the retrieve. For the retrieve you use a wiregate microbiner or a little plastic ball that will pass through the Rollclip and catch on the Pinto. I forget who it was that put this one out there. It is on Youtube somewhere.

Rollclip_Pinto_Redirect.webp
 
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ARLO said:
If you do the same thing with a Petzl Rollclip on one side and a Pinto Pulley on the other side it works even better and has almost zero friction on the retrieve. For the retrieve you use a wiregate microbiner or a little plastic ball that will pass through the Rollclip and catch on the Pinto. I forget who it was that put this one out there. It is on Youtube somewhere.

View attachment 57971
Click to expand...
In an SRT redirect, I'm not really concerned about the friction. Also, I own neither a Rollclip nor a Pinto unfortunately.
 
climbstihl said:
In an SRT redirect, I'm not really concerned about the friction. Also, I own neither a Rollclip nor a Pinto unfortunately.
Click to expand...
climbstihl said:
In an SRT redirect, I'm not really concerned about the friction. Also, I own neither a Rollclip nor a Pinto unfortunately.
Click to expand...
Yeah, it is a bit more spendy than just a couple of biners. But the lack of friction does make a difference if you go through several redirects after passing through the retrievable top anchor. Not something most of us do very often, but it is something to think about.
This works best as a retrievable top canopy anchor where you are going from a basal anchor, up to the retrievable anchor and then through one or more redirects. That is where the friction can really add up if you have multiple redirects.

Also, I forgot to point out that the set-up illustrated in the picture is so that you can climb on one side (the butterfly jams against the pinto) and retrieve it from the ground.
 
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climbstihl said:
@Serf Life Sure, here is a pic that should get it across. The door handle is the redirect limb, the friction hitch is where you would be, the right leg is going to your anchor. The wrench is just in there to separate the biners so you can see what's going on. To retrieve, just tie an overhand knot in the end (HMS carabiner recommended for easier retrieval with thick lines like my 12mm) or use a retriaval ball that won't fit through the accesory carabiner.
I would've done it outside in a tree, but the wind is blowing really View attachment 57969hard here.
Click to expand...
I was just thinking of that but with the accessory biner tethered to the rest of the setup. I might like the untethered way better.
 
RBJtree said:
I was just thinking of that but with the accessory biner tethered to the rest of the setup. I might like the untethered way better.
Click to expand...
Hadn't thought of that, I keep a short length of accessory cord with an accessory biner on my harness anyway for retrieving cinched slings with a biner like a pulleysaver. That could actually used as a retrievable redirect of your basetie on a featureless limb if I think about it.
 
You know, i liked playing around with redirects, thinking about them at night in my bed and fantasizing about a little remote control thingys that just let go of your rope and disappear, like POOF! Or just a portal gun...
But everytime i get in a tree now with more than one desired TIP...i just bring more than one rope. There is so much you can do with just a short hank, not even to mention a whole 2nd climbing system...
I totally understand a solo unassisted climber approach, too. I think the quickie is my favorite redirect.
 
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