Speedlines? What do you like?

[Boogie]

Well I got a chance to dive into the great articles on this website that Mark wrote....and I was reading about using steel cable for a speedline. I guess I never of tought about that before. I always used a old climbing line for brush or a bull line for bigger stuff. I have used 4-1"s to put tension on the line if needed. Just wonder what everyone here perfers or uses? Seeing how this is my first thread to start!!!! lol

 

[Tom Dunlap]

The most important thing to understand about SLs is that the loads on the anchor point can be HUGE!

As you learn to construct them start off with very small pieces. If you consider taking a normal top roped piece out on a SL only take about 1/4 of that.

 

[kairon]

I usually us a lowering line tied to the pulley that the piece I'm taking is riding down the static line on. This takes a lot of the shock load of the static line. It also allows me to pull the pulley back up. For small pieces I use a figure 8 in the tree to lower the piece down the static line myself, but with larger pieces I have a second groundie lower it off the porta wrap.
As far as static lines, I've been using a stable braid or any low stretch rope. If you're lowing the piece down the static line the load is not as great as if you just let it ride so your static line doesn't need to be super strong.
Also, by lowering down the static line your groundies can add tention to the static line as needed while the piece is in flight.

 

[JeffL]

I used my first speedline just a few weeks ago. I had my speedline set up, with a control line run to a carriage pulley and rigging plate for line retrieval purposes. When I took the tops out of a 3 stem probably 85'~ Red Oak, I slacked out the speedline, choked off the tops with the slings, caught them as usual with the pulley and rope, then had the speedline retensioned and sent them on their way! Worked out slicker than goose poop.

I didnt get any perceivable movement in the tree whatsoever when dropping pieces into the speedline or blowing out the tops. I felt very comfortable with the setup. Had the anchor point set at probably 70-75' and run probably 150' away. I'll definitely make use of it whenever possible, was a bunch of fun, was really effective for the situation we were in, and considering it was only my first time, worked incredibly well, was really encouraging!

 

[theXman]

I just wanted to say welcome Boogie.

and great job JeffL.

I'm a little tired about talking about speedlines, so I'll stay out of it for now.

We've had similar posts, search speedlines for some long threads on this subject. Pretty much the most important thing is what Tom said.

link to another thread with some good info I think on speedlines:

speedline setup discussion on tree buzz

 

[theXman]

i just posted a video in the buzzbuster video section of this forum.

In it has a few clips from an oak speedline we did, some helmet cam (thanks to AllMark) and also a ground cam view.

i will likely put together a video with all the clips from that speedline job someday... soon...

 

[jduvall]

Wondering if most use a static line? If not what do you prefer?

 

[Fairfield]

super static line

 

[Roger_Barnett]

I have 1/2 inch spectra, 24k tensile, (almost)no stretch, and 9/16th double braid, spectra core, 19,500 tensile, near zero stretch as well. Both are great when no sag is required. But one must be cognizant of the forces applied to either end of the zip line. It's fine if it is fairly tight, as long as the anchors can handle up to 7 times the load. Alternatively, with heavy loads, its best to catch the load with a lowering line, then ease it onto the speed line. I prefer to leave the speedline slack, then tension it once the load is on its way out, or after its weight is on the zip line.

With light loads, just tighten 'er up and let em fly. No need to tension a no stretch rope much, as soon as the slack is out, it will be tight!

NEVER shock load a HMWPE line.

(HMWPE= high molecular weight polyethylene)

 

[Roger_Barnett]

most any rigging line will work, as most of the tree industry specific lines are very low stretch. In other words, they are semi-static. In fact, most have less stretch per % of tensile than so called static lines that are designed for rapelling, rope access, or caving. Most have less than 15% stretch at break, whereas full dynamic lines, which are only designed for lead rock and snow climbing, can stretch 60-70% at break. At no time, can a full dynamic line transfer life threatening forces to a human body, weighing about 165 lb. I'm not sure what the average peak Kn that a falling object will be subjected to with these lines, but it's very low, compared to lifelines used in tree work. Do NOT ever risk a long fall on an arborist line! You will get hurt!