Ropes you use

What ropes do you guys use most of the time? I'm trying to put together a good set of ropes and I've always just used the ragged leftovers that my brothers and cousins had left behind.

Climbing rope - Diameter and length most used?
Lowering ropes - Diameter and length most used? (polyester?) Like you you have an 11mm and a big bull rope for the killers?

I've never used ropes with eyes sewn in. Do you find that useful, if so why?

What other item besides some prussiks are a must have that I'm missing out if I'm not using?
 
For me personally I only have two climbing ropes, many on here have a lot more. For me its Samson vortex 12.7 and 11.5 tachyon, I climb SRT with a hitchhiker and occasionally a homemade ropewrench. For rigging 1/2" stable braid does 90% of what I need to do, I also utilize a 16 strand hawkeye with my rig-n-wrench, and I use 3/4" Husky for the heavier jobs that may need a little stretch. My last rigging line is a 75' length of 1/2" 3 strand, this line is my go to for high abuse such as natural crotch rigging that I can control up in the tree, and it also makes a nice tag line. If you have random ropes laying around, consider using some shorter lengths for smaller jobs, there are times when its nicer to use a 100' rigging rope than a 150'

ropes, especially for climbing is all about preference. As long as they are rated for the task, try out what you have and see what you like, the same for the spliced eyes. I have a couple of ropes that are spliced and still often terminate with knots, it really depends on if you want to use knotless rigging, or a cleaner look with a moving rope system.
 
This would be my recommendation. Learn some stuff about the rope choices, think about what you do or want to do, then re ask yourself these questions or re post here with details. Soooo many choices for so many styles.
I have 2 climb lines, long and short. Prune line and kill line. Same rope cuz i like consistency. It's abrasive resist-ish cause I'm rough on stuff. If your a careful and gentle person on ropes that may leave you open to things I wouldn't ever suggest cuz of how I am.
Rigging lines, same thing. I do natural crotch rigging mixed with rigging rings, and I'm it overly gently with it. I also do speed lines lot. I jave 150' rigging line (long enough out my way) for 90% of what I do. Abrasive resistance again was important for my rope choice because of how I am. But i would also love to buy a long static line for my.speed lines where I need it tighty tight.
Start with cost effective ropes so you can learn what YOU like as you go. Work with what you have, and learn what you want that fits your style so you can continue to do motw and more withbwhat you have. Takes time but asl questions and youll get it
 
^this

My personal preference:

200' static line (htp for me) for srt, ascent

200' doublebraid (Yale 11.7 all the way) for srt and ddrt. Great for natural crotch climbing removals.

200' rigging lines- one 1/2" 16 strand, one 9/16" doublebraid (atlas/stable braid/kraken/take your pick)

I prefer 200' so there's no funny improvising when you come up short with 150'. It can be a little more management at times, but the pros outweigh the cons for me.
 
^this

My personal preference:

200' static line (htp for me) for srt, ascent

200' doublebraid (Yale 11.7 all the way) for srt and ddrt. Great for natural crotch climbing removals.

200' rigging lines- one 1/2" 16 strand, one 9/16" doublebraid (atlas/stable braid/kraken/take your pick)

I prefer 200' so there's no funny improvising when you come up short with 150'. It can be a little more management at times, but the pros outweigh the cons for me.

I need one 200'er. I've been in denial for a while
 
I personally do not find a reason to own a 1/2 and a 9/16’s rope. So similar in size and strength. But it does not hurts to have as many rope sizes and lengths you can afford.

My set up

Climbing:
Tachyon 120’ and 200’

Rigging
200’ 1/2 Sterling HTP
200’ 1/2 All Gear Forestry Pro
150’ 5/8 Notch Kraken
150’ 5/8 Sterling Atlas
120’ 3/4 Yale Polydyne
120’ 1” Yale Polydyne
 
I personally do not find a reason to own a 1/2 and a 9/16’s rope. So similar in size and strength. But it does not hurts to have as many rope sizes and lengths you can afford.

My set up

Climbing:
Tachyon 120’ and 200’

Rigging
200’ 1/2 Sterling HTP
200’ 1/2 All Gear Forestry Pro
150’ 5/8 Notch Kraken
150’ 5/8 Sterling Atlas
120’ 3/4 Yale Polydyne
120’ 1” Yale Polydyne

If you look at the break strength between arbormaster and most 9/16 lines, the rating is almost double. Almost double the rating for not much more weight being hauled around is ideal to me. If I need to drop really big wood, sure, 5/8 is nice. I usually don't like to lower huge pieces that warrant big ropes. Big rabbit trail we could chase here. My opinion is heavily influenced by restricted investment in gear and personal setup built around varying (usually limited) skill of ground help.
 
This would be my recommendation. Learn some stuff about the rope choices, think about what you do or want to do, then re ask yourself these questions or re post here with details. Soooo many choices for so many styles.
I have 2 climb lines, long and short. Prune line and kill line. Same rope cuz i like consistency. It's abrasive resist-ish cause I'm rough on stuff. If your a careful and gentle person on ropes that may leave you open to things I wouldn't ever suggest cuz of how I am.
Rigging lines, same thing. I do natural crotch rigging mixed with rigging rings, and I'm it overly gently with it. I also do speed lines lot. I jave 150' rigging line (long enough out my way) for 90% of what I do. Abrasive resistance again was important for my rope choice because of how I am. But i would also love to buy a long static line for my.speed lines where I need it tighty tight.
Start with cost effective ropes so you can learn what YOU like as you go. Work with what you have, and learn what you want that fits your style so you can continue to do motw and more withbwhat you have. Takes time but asl questions and youll get it

Hey, CutHighnLetFly! I noticed that you like ropes that are rugged, and that is of interest to me. Only you never named the ropes that you use that you find to be so tough. What is the name and diameter of your favorite climbing line?

Also, to everyone reading this thread generally: I saw this thread going by when the original poster started it. I guess I felt like staying out of it initially just because there are so many more experienced climbers on this forum, that I thought they'd have better input for the guy. Big mistake. It seems like he may have left us since nobody answered his post the whole first day he posted it.

Hey, @treethings! If you are still lurking out there, jump back in & let us know you're still interested. I meant no offense by my lack of reply, I was just expecting someone else to give it a go, & it just didn't happen for awhile.

To answer the question of whether and why to get a spliced eye in a rope, for me I vote yes to getting a spliced eye in one end of the rope only. A hand splice is supposed to retain about 90% of the strength of a rope, if I have my facts right. I think a knot can cause a loss of about 40% of a rope's strength. I'm not sure of the numbers for sewn splices. Also, having a spliced eye in a rigging rope makes it easy to do knotless rigging, where you just clip in a rigging biner to the spliced eye & use an "endless loop" sling to quickly girth hitch a branch to be removed. Having an eye in a climbing rope eliminates having a bulky termination knot that can interfere with the function of a climbing hitch, for those that still like to climb using the DdRT method.

To answer the original poster's question about which ropes I use: for climbing, I have Vortex, which I think is a 12.7mm rope. It's big and heavy and soft on the hands, easy to grab, but I managed to pick it pretty badly once with a foot ascender. Probably operator error, but this is why I have an interest in hearing from people who have found a really tough climbing line that also works well in both hybrid and fully mechanical devices, if such a thing exists.

My first rope, which I still use & get grief for, is a Mammut rope intended for mountaineering. Highly dynamic, so it can absorb a lot of energy in the event of a fall. The stretchyness never bothered me.

I also recently bought some Samson Voyager climbing rope, which I think is an 11.8 mm diameter rope. I've only climbed on it once or twice so far, but I like the way it feels in the hand. It seemed to work ok in the Rope Runner, but it was my first time using both the Rope Runner and the Voyager rope, and it was a brief climb, and not too high. I was just showing a curious friend my basic method for getting into a tree.

I only own two rigging ropes. 1/2" Sampson Stable Braid, which gets used for almost everything I do, plus a 5/8" Yale Polydyne rigging rope, which is a lot more stretchy or dynamic, intended to be used to catch falling wood, and preventing breaking due to its energy absorbing characteristics. So far I haven't had to use it much, as I'm not a takedown artist yet. It is nice to have two rigging ropes, though. The biggest use I put the Polydyne to was to suspend a block, and then run the 1/2" Stable Braid through it, for rigging out tree branch sections.

That's about it for me.

Tim
 
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@TimBr
For climbing I only use yale 11.7mm series as it works perfect out of my Bull dog bone. Imori line by Yale is another double braid climb line that is pretty tough. 16 strands, any ones, are super durable imo, they just aren't ideal for SRT. Kernmantle on the other hand I personally think wont last as well for me using mostly natural redirects and using ddrt set ups on the tail end of my line. I could be wrong tho.

The double braid rigging lines are where I have problems because i wanna just mix styles and do what I want, not be weary of rope construction and abuse. For the most part 16strsnd 1/2" rigging lines are what I LOVE to use. Other then that stable braid has had my vote so far. Other ones show their wear very very badly in my experience.

Climbing lanyard must be put up with some abuse as well. 16 strand is awesome, tri-tech is awesome but i can't splice it so meh. I'm using vortext now and kinda thinking it wont last nicely for you long.
 
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@CutHighnLetFly; Thanks for this answer. I still have not ever tried a Yale 11.7mm climbing line. Everybody seems to love them, so I guess I don't know what I'm missing. I'll put one on my list for the future. It's good to know that the Yale 11.7's work well with the Bulldog Bone. Thanks again.

Tim
 
Good morning Tree buzz, my name is Quill and I am a bit of a rope addict.
Climbing lines: 11mm Kernmaster mostly used with a rope wrench.
11.8mm voyager/Tangent for use with zigzag mainly.
11.7 Yale scandere, just got it in the fall, very nice smooth jacket. Just big Kernmaster basicly probably for wrench/uni we will see. Liking it so far.
11mm Blaze is a real good basic, cheap and durable climb line. I often keep a hank around for conifers.

Rigging lines:
1/2'' yale polydyne good stretchy all around rigging line. Used mainly with rig n wrench or AFB. Definitely recommend polydyne in all sizes, very nice rope.
14mm sirius for when things get more serious.
5/8 double braid from Atlantic braids. Barely ever gets used but good for hitting the big wood.
5/8 kernmaster I got from tree stuff a few years back and still trying to find a good use for...
 
what kind of trees are you climbing
I use 200' true blue for rigging, actually by it by the spool and cut it down... I beat up my rigging lines and rig monster limbs from a 75' bucket all day long.... VERY rarely do I pull out the bull rope.. I'd rather just drop a second block and a second piece of true blue into the rigging in many cases..
 
Since you asked so nice and all.... if a picture is worth 1000 words, what's a video worth.... This one is called "the best rope to use for light and medium rigging"
Guarenteed to blow your mind, but PLEASE DON'T post the link anywhere as its an unlisted video.. so just for you eh?

thanks

Great video Daniel... Very helpful... Thank you...
 
Since you asked so nice and all.... if a picture is worth 1000 words, what's a video worth.... This one is called "the best rope to use for light and medium rigging"
Guarenteed to blow your mind, but PLEASE DON'T post the link anywhere as its an unlisted video.. so just for you eh?

thanks

Great stuff as usual Daniel. Thank you.
 
What ropes do you guys use most of the time? I'm trying to put together a good set of ropes and I've always just used the ragged leftovers that my brothers and cousins had left behind.

Climbing rope - Diameter and length most used?
Lowering ropes - Diameter and length most used? (polyester?) Like you you have an 11mm and a big bull rope for the killers?

I've never used ropes with eyes sewn in. Do you find that useful, if so why?

What other item besides some prussiks are a must have that I'm missing out if I'm not using?

Climbing - Generally Yale 11.7. Works great with Wrench, Runner, and (Adjustable) Bone. Not much Bounce

Rigging - 1/2" Arbormaster Blue Streak 8100lb Breaking Strength. Love this rope. It's tough. Works great in pulley, rings, natural crotch, rig n' wrench. For lighter rigging

1/2" and 5/8" Samson Stable Braid for heavier rigging
 

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