Porti wrap

[DonaldRobertson]

Is there any videos of how you can wrap the rope on a porti for lowering or if you can explain how you do it. If this doesn't make sence to you just post a comment and I'll try to explain it better.

 

[tomthetreeman]

Here's a pic from the web:

This image is showing two full wraps, I usually use 1/2 or just 1. It's tough to let anything run the way they have it pictured.

-Tom

 

[KevinS]

i think that is 2 and a half but ive used that before usually ginning

 

[Jman]

I'd go with 2.5 too but just as long as your ground man and you are on the same page to what is what its not a huge deal.

 

[Blinky]

For typical limb lowering I've found that more than a 1 or 1/2 wrap on a large porty is too much if you want the piece to run.

You can easily suspend a whole 20" x 80' pine tree with 4 wraps.

 

[tomthetreeman]

[ QUOTE ]
For typical limb lowering I've found that more than a 1 or 1/2 wrap on a large porty is too much if you want the piece to run.

You can easily suspend a whole 20" x 80' pine tree with 4 wraps.

[/ QUOTE ]

X2

 

[DonaldRobertson]

Anyone ever use a rescue figure 8 descender for lower small branches?

 

[RLEWIS]

One of the great things about Sherrills website is the learning center. If you bring up http://www.sherrilltree.com/
look for the tabs across the top, go to the learning center, tab down to the product instruction, then look for product videos. Hope this helps.

rlew

 

[banjo]

[ QUOTE ]
Anyone ever use a rescue figure 8 descender for lower small branches?

[/ QUOTE ]

yeah, but it turns your rigging line into a big hockled mess.

 

[Blinky]

rlew... thanks, I didn't know about that, it's an excellent resource.

 

[DonaldRobertson]

I've looked at the learning center thing on their websire a few times as I do have it bookmarked so I have have something to look at when I need to know something else.

 

[southsoundtree]

An important think about the port-a-wrap is that the rope has to continue in the same spiraling direction. Some people want to bend it back around the 1/2" rod that guides the rope to the barrel/ serves as the anchor point.

This seems to happen the most when there is 1/2 a wrap, resulting in a sharp bend in the rope. Use the post that extends through the barrel as a guide/ fairlead.

As Norm pointed out, changing the direction from one lower to the next will keep it from hockling/ kinking up the rope as much. (Never thought of that Norm. Of course it makes sense once hearing it. I almost never am the POW operator, and hadn't pondered optimal POW usage. Thanks.)

Sometimes for small branches, it is easier to natural-crotch rig/lower the limbs from a stub that will be removed, so as not to burn any "keeper" cambium.

Also, using a leather Cambium Saver tube will protect "keeper" cambium from your rigging rope, as well as protect your rope. (Be sure to use a rope that is meant for natural crotching.)

 

[Roger_Barnett]

[ QUOTE ]
Here's a pic from the web:

This image is showing two full wraps, I usually use 1/2 or just 1. It's tough to let anything run the way they have it pictured.

-Tom

[/ QUOTE ]

Look again. That's actually 3.5 total wraps....

 

[TreeCo]

[ QUOTE ]


Look again. That's actually 3.5 total wraps....

[/ QUOTE ]

I think so too.

 

[southsoundtree]

I would count it as 3.5 wraps. But what really matters is that all people involved are talking the same language. I find this confusion to be somewhat common with ropers. I should make a point getting on the exact same nomenclature page with the crew, explicitly. Should only take 1 minute, maybe 2, to see that we are all talking the same terms. Should allow the communication to be more effective when we are rigging.

 

[tomthetreeman]

I guess I consider the first bight as included or always there, so when I count 'wraps' on the porty, I am just counting what is after the initial wrap/bight.

Sorry for the misleading post... Either way, I rarely ever use that many wraps!

-Tom