New top handle question
- Thread starter RANDY10
- Start date
Reach
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Atglen, PA
Personally, I would just buy a new saw, which is probably the TC-M model. The M has the electronic carburetor, which seem to work fine for us. We have more than a dozen of saws with that carb and have very few problems with them.
Jackjcc
Participating member
- Location
- Twin Cities
I got a brand new 201-TCM last week. It’s working great and the new tune process is very easy and you get confirmation that it works. I’m in MN and our weather is varying 25 degrees so it’s nice to put it in start, let it idle for 30 seconds and then pin the throttle for 20 seconds while it adjusts itself. It goes to mid range in the RPM while adjusting and then full throttle when complete.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Consider lithium climbing saws... The Husqvarna is supposed to rip. I love my medium sized lithium saws. So much better, most of the time, than my medium sized gas saws that I no longer use. I keep an Echo 2511t for small stuff, but a lot of guys are modding or refitting it to replace their 201.
I use my stihl msa160t more than my 201tc, even used it to drop a 10" diameter oak branch that was 30 ft long and splitting up the middle with a trigger cut/plunge cut yesterday, I love my electric and wouldn't want to go back to not having one but it's not a replacement for my 201tc/tcm either. I could work without the electric saw I wouldn't want to but I could I couldn't work without my 201.
Willber
New member
- Location
- Milford, NH
I was using the 201 TC-M, for 2years, it will develop ignition and engine problems if you do much shaving (I used the tip to shave rot out and carve slight water run-off paths, after cuts), which is because the electric carburetor doesn't know what to do when the saw is running at high RPM with out cutting substantial material, so it doesn't properly supply the engine with consistent fuel.
I haven't had this problem with the Stihl 194-T, which is only 31cc vs. 201 TC-M's 35cc, but if you mod this 194T it will actually have more HP than the 201 TC-M. Also, the 194, can also be easily equipped with a 1.3mm 16" bar, and weighs .8 lbs less than the 201TC-M.
Being almost a pound lighter, is much appreciated when doing extensive, long duration of pruning.
Also, try using a 3/16" file to sharpen your 1.3mm 16" bar, though, make sure you get the same 16" bar that they recommend for the 201 TC-M.
I've used my unmodified 194 for removing tree tops of up to 20" in diameter, in tight drop zones.
It starts easily every time and can be adjusted for different octane fuels, because (surprisingly) it actually has a real adjustable carburetor.
I haven't had this problem with the Stihl 194-T, which is only 31cc vs. 201 TC-M's 35cc, but if you mod this 194T it will actually have more HP than the 201 TC-M. Also, the 194, can also be easily equipped with a 1.3mm 16" bar, and weighs .8 lbs less than the 201TC-M.
Being almost a pound lighter, is much appreciated when doing extensive, long duration of pruning.
Also, try using a 3/16" file to sharpen your 1.3mm 16" bar, though, make sure you get the same 16" bar that they recommend for the 201 TC-M.
I've used my unmodified 194 for removing tree tops of up to 20" in diameter, in tight drop zones.
It starts easily every time and can be adjusted for different octane fuels, because (surprisingly) it actually has a real adjustable carburetor.
What mods did you do to the 194?
Willber
New member
- Location
- Milford, NH
Oh, sorry, I didn't mean to imply I modified my 194. I did read somewhere that if modified it can be more powerful than the 201 M-Tronic. I think it was on an Australian forum site. But, here is a simple mod that at least made it more powerful. I don't know what chain and file he used for the saw in this video.
southsoundtree
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Olympia, WA
Willber
New member
- Location
- Milford, NH
Oh, sorry, I meant to say, after I do a proper flush cut of a branch that has a rotted area in the cross section. I'll modify the flush cut.
I will carve out a bit of the rot to reduce holding of rain water near the rot, also I'll carve out a bit more of healthy flare wood on the bottom of the flush cut, to allow better run off for the rotted area. But, only when it seems necessary.
I didn't get this idea from any where particular, it just seemed to make sense to me.
- Location
- Retired in Minneapolis
Would you show what you mean by this? In arbo-speak a flush cut removes the branch collar. This would lead to sooooo much more decay and harken back to pre-Shigoesque practices that changed in the early 80's
Stumpsprouts
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Asheville
+1
Highly recommend reading about how trees compartmentalize decay. It will help you make more informed choices in the tree. In regards to pruning, standard modern arboriculture would say there is no such thing as a ‘proper flush cut’ in pruning.
Pouring concrete into trees used to make sense too.
I'm trying to invision what you're describing, but carving out healthy wood just seems like a no no
evo
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- My Island, WA
You need to keep your hands off chainsaws until you educate yourself a bit more on tree biology. There are PILES of avail data/information at your finger tips all FREE of charge.
Willber
New member
- Location
- Milford, NH
I only do it when I assess that the rot is more detrimental than the slight increase in cross section surface area of the cut. I usually return to the trees I've pruned each year to check on them. All so far, seem healthy and flourishing.
Once there was a large co-dom Black Locust Tree that was asked of me to take down, but when I went up unto it to think about cutting it down, I thought it was such a nice, unique tree, that I said they should just throughly prune it and cable it. So, they agreed.
I checked on it a year later, it was looking in great health. I checked on it 2 years later, and the tree had quite a few suckers spread throughout it, but still had great, healthy looking foliage. Does that mean the tree has great vitality... restored vigour... and, doing well healthwise, given that there are these suckers, indicating that the tree has extra growing potential, (because it was meticulously pruned), and that vitality can be redirected into the desirable structure of the tree, if those suckers are properly removed?
@Tom Dunlap
Well, I never do an actual flush cut, meaning cutting the branch all the way to the tree bark or preceding branch bark.
But, just closer to the bark of the originating bark (main tree stem or akin preceding branch) than a typical cut would be done, giving a slight favor to vertical as possible to increase water runoff. I only do this if there is a rot issue that would be decreased, by favoring water shedding over healing time.
Once there was a large co-dom Black Locust Tree that was asked of me to take down, but when I went up unto it to think about cutting it down, I thought it was such a nice, unique tree, that I said they should just throughly prune it and cable it. So, they agreed.
I checked on it a year later, it was looking in great health. I checked on it 2 years later, and the tree had quite a few suckers spread throughout it, but still had great, healthy looking foliage. Does that mean the tree has great vitality... restored vigour... and, doing well healthwise, given that there are these suckers, indicating that the tree has extra growing potential, (because it was meticulously pruned), and that vitality can be redirected into the desirable structure of the tree, if those suckers are properly removed?
@Tom Dunlap
Well, I never do an actual flush cut, meaning cutting the branch all the way to the tree bark or preceding branch bark.
But, just closer to the bark of the originating bark (main tree stem or akin preceding branch) than a typical cut would be done, giving a slight favor to vertical as possible to increase water runoff. I only do this if there is a rot issue that would be decreased, by favoring water shedding over healing time.
Last edited:
- Location
- Retired in Minneapolis
I think that your understanding of branch collars, CODIT and decay needs to be expanded.
This sculpting and cutting that you're doing is very likely detrimental to the tree.
Take some time to read other threads in the archives about draining water from decay. Wood tissue reacts much differently to water than the fenders on your car.
Please share some pictures of the sculpting that you're doing.
New threads New posts
-
test
-
-
-
-
-
Light 14 or 16" narrow kerf bar for 200t or 201t- Started by southsoundtree
- Replies: 9
-
