southsoundtree
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Olympia, WA
A Rig'n'Wrench (lift and lower) does a different job than a Safebloc (just lowering friction), with different load capacities.
New Climber's First Rigging Gear
- Thread starter TreeRookie
- Start date
JeffGu
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Osceola, Nebraska
I think you might be getting fixated on single properties and ignoring others. A smaller rope presents less area of rope to the hardware (hence the lower friction) and rope abrasion will wear out a rope long before shock loading, assuming you're staying well within the safety factors for each. Looking at system performance for the work being done, and methods of achieving the desired results, might give you a better understanding of why going big with components isn't always the right approach.
I haven't found the rings to be of much benefit to me in the tree, it's that simple. With the 1/2" systems I use, I find the OmniBlock pulleys give me more options and control for how I work. It's that simple. I've used both, and I get less rope wear and more versatility out of what I'm using.
I'm pretty sure that not everyone else would like how I do things, and I'm good with that. But, I have noticed an increase in folks moving toward some of these lighter rigging methods. I can only assume that others are finding that the increased safety, smaller crew requirements, increased longevity of the equipment, lower costs, etc. make a lot of sense for the majority of urban tree work. If you're working in Canuckifornia taking down redwoods, I'm pretty sure my methods won't be of much use, at all.
I haven't found the rings to be of much benefit to me in the tree, it's that simple. With the 1/2" systems I use, I find the OmniBlock pulleys give me more options and control for how I work. It's that simple. I've used both, and I get less rope wear and more versatility out of what I'm using.
I'm pretty sure that not everyone else would like how I do things, and I'm good with that. But, I have noticed an increase in folks moving toward some of these lighter rigging methods. I can only assume that others are finding that the increased safety, smaller crew requirements, increased longevity of the equipment, lower costs, etc. make a lot of sense for the majority of urban tree work. If you're working in Canuckifornia taking down redwoods, I'm pretty sure my methods won't be of much use, at all.
With this question in mind you should look back through some ma chats on here. Cause ‘how much rope to build a 20:1’ is a crazy question that depends on the distance you need to travel. Obviously in a single system you’d never go bigger than 7:1 ma because friction then starts to override advantage. But simple complex rigging says if you setup your 5:1 as you’ve said you’ve done and you attach a 2:1 to your pull line you have a 10:1 system if you attach a 4:1 to your 5:1 you have a 20:1 system simple as 123.
If you want to see BIG ma laid out kinda fun go to YouTube and look up Tom Hoffman (Oldfart) on here and find his stump pulling one. But he has other ma videos to.
Don’t let short hand on here confuse you but do ask lots of questions.
I’ve done 15:1 numerous times set up a long 3:1 and attach a 5:1. The full system is slow but strong and would let me pull trees against there lean, etc and once the shorter 5:1 was closed it was stood up and I was left with a faster acting 3:1 to finish getting it over. Works great in the right spot.
