New 201..

[evo]

I’ve held off as long as possible.. bought a 201 in July, and the damn thing is a turd. The muffler literally drips tar, and when the chain break is engaged there is a high pitched squeal. Took it into the saw shop, and they said without looking at it it was the clutch bearing and they would have it ready by this afternoon.. no call by 3:30 so I ran in to pick it up for tomorrows job. The saw is in pieces and apparently it’s a oil pump that’s about to self destruct the whole f-en saw.
My local shop is more miss than hit, so it’s very hard to say what the hell is really going on. They are claiming it’s a manufacturers flaw.

 

[Reach]

I’m sorry to hear that! We have three or four of the new 201s in circulation, and have had no problems except for vapor locking in the sun on a hot day, and all the new saws do that. The squeal does sound like a clutch bearing to me, if the muffler is dripping tar, maybe try a different brand oil? What are you using for fuel and oil now?

Also, how much do you run it? It does take 15-20 tanks of fuel to break in completely, if my memory is correct.

 

[Birdyman88]

The muffler literally drips tar,

There was another recent thread where user claimed his newish 201 did same thing. We suggested maybe someone screwed up mix. Apparently something else is going on. The tar has to be oil, so it has to be coming from mix (too rich, break-in) or strangely from some point in bar oil circuit.

 

[Jonny]

Sorry to hear you got a bad one man. I love my 201TCM. Can’t think of a single bad thing to say about it.
Hopefully they fix it right, or replace the whole saw for you.
For as much as you paid for that little saw, it should be absolutely flawless for a long while.

 

[evo]

I think the newest batch ordered in May and purchased in July might have more emissions than the previous editions. But I don’t know this as a fact. They shop guys say all m-tronics do this?!?
As for the clutch bearing? Who knows, saw only squeals with the chain brake engaged. Dude said today it was the oil pump and the only reason you don’t hear it when the saw brake is disengaged is because it’s spinning too fast (which is utter bullshit) as it won’t squeal disengaged at idle.

 

[Reach]

I think the newest batch ordered in May and purchased in July might have more emissions than the previous editions. But I don’t know this as a fact. They shop guys say all m-tronics do this?!?
As for the clutch bearing? Who knows, saw only squeals with the chain brake engaged. Dude said today it was the oil pump and the only reason you don’t hear it when the saw brake is disengaged is because it’s spinning too fast (which is utter bullshit) as it won’t squeal disengaged at idle.

I don’t know if the emissions requirements have changed, but I do know that M-Tronic saws do not all drip “tar” out of the mufflers. Nearly all our saws are M-Tronic, and none of them make tar. We do run only 90 octane ethanol free fuel, from a specialty supplier, mixed with Stihl full synthetic oil (the stuff in the silver bottles) and it burns real nice and clean.

That squeal really sounds like a clutch bearing. A chain that is off the drive spur can do that too, but the 201 doesn’t have a rim spur, so it should not be able to get off track.

Does the saw squeal even with no bar and chain mounted? Is there debris around the brake band, which could cause the brake to apply uneven pressure to the clutch, pulling it to one side?

 

[Chris Schultz]

Yeah….. every one of them new 201tcm are rubbish from my experiences…. I wish I had some insight to your/these problems but I don’t. Luckily every one I’ve run, I didn’t pay for or own either. I’ll pay extra for a used 200t or a used 201t…

 

[evo]

I don’t know if the emissions requirements have changed, but I do know that M-Tronic saws do not all drip “tar” out of the mufflers. Nearly all our saws are M-Tronic, and none of them make tar. We do run only 90 octane ethanol free fuel, from a specialty supplier, mixed with Stihl full synthetic oil (the stuff in the silver bottles) and it burns real nice and clean.

That squeal really sounds like a clutch bearing. A chain that is off the drive spur can do that too, but the 201 doesn’t have a rim spur, so it should not be able to get off track.

Does the saw squeal even with no bar and chain mounted? Is there debris around the brake band, which could cause the brake to apply uneven pressure to the clutch, pulling it to one side?

I've seen a few m-tronic saws and would certainly have heard about this.. The only other one I have is a 261, and a 500i rest are all oldschool.

The problem is certainly mechanical to the saw, I've sharpened the chain no more than twice since new...

I run e-free 89 octane and stihl silver bottles, and super anal about the mix.. I only mix a gallon at a time, and if working a gas hungry job I'll bring a second jug... I rather mix a gallon every day than have saw mix sitting around for more than a few days. All saws are fueled from these jugs...

 

[oldoakman]

Now you guys are making me worry. I have just gotten a new 201tc at work to replace a saw that was lost on the job. I have not even cranked it yet. Hope I don't have this kind of problem because our in house mechanics are prison inmates.

 

[evo]

Now you guys are making me worry. I have just gotten a new 201tc at work to replace a saw that was lost on the job. I have not even cranked it yet. Hope I don't have this kind of problem because our in house mechanics are prison inmates.

Shit I’d take your guys over our local shop

 

[oldoakman]

Maybe Mark needs to make a call.

 

[evo]

Maybe Mark needs to make a call.

I’d advocate for that! They certainly need to up their game, commercial warranties, and vet/train better.

 

[Vicente]

My new (last year) 201 is great, I'm having more issues with my new 362 constantly flooding itself when it's warm out.

 

[john.massing]

My new (last year) 201 is great, I'm having more issues with my new 362 constantly flooding itself when it's warm out.

If you have an mtronic saw that is constantly flooding, it is worth pressure testing the carb to see if the needle is seating, checking out the metering diaphragm for suppleness, do an mtronic reset. If the saw won't run long enough for the mtronic reset, depending on version, it could be a failed/failing fuel solenoid valve. If the fuel solenoid valve is black, they are prone to failure and the upgrade is green, $38.

 

[john.massing]

I’ve held off as long as possible.. bought a 201 in July, and the damn thing is a turd. The muffler literally drips tar, and when the chain break is engaged there is a high pitched squeal. Took it into the saw shop, and they said without looking at it it was the clutch bearing and they would have it ready by this afternoon.. no call by 3:30 so I ran in to pick it up for tomorrows job. The saw is in pieces and apparently it’s a oil pump that’s about to self destruct the whole f-en saw.
My local shop is more miss than hit, so it’s very hard to say what the hell is really going on. They are claiming it’s a manufacturers flaw.

With a piston stop or a piece of rope in the spark plug hole you can spin the clutch off clockwise (reverse) thread. Then inspect and lube or replace that bearing. It is on the crank shaft and the clutch drum slides over it which seats into the plastic worm gear that drives the oil pump. You can also turn that plastic worm gear clock wise to turn the pump to feel any obstruction. I am only providing things i would look for. The oiler may be pumping too much oil and need to be tuned down. I have seen oil collect and work it's way down the rear of the clutch side toward the forward corner of the muffler.

 

[john.massing]

I’ve held off as long as possible.. bought a 201 in July, and the damn thing is a turd. The muffler literally drips tar, and when the chain break is engaged there is a high pitched squeal. Took it into the saw shop, and they said without looking at it it was the clutch bearing and they would have it ready by this afternoon.. no call by 3:30 so I ran in to pick it up for tomorrows job. The saw is in pieces and apparently it’s a oil pump that’s about to self destruct the whole f-en saw.
My local shop is more miss than hit, so it’s very hard to say what the hell is really going on. They are claiming it’s a manufacturers flaw.

The pictures got re arranged upon attachment but this is what is on your clutch side from oiler on out. This is a 200t but the order is the same. You can see where the plastic gear meshes with the metal gear on the oil pump. I have also had an oil pump fail where it pumped way too much oil and just made a mess. After you have the clutch torqued down either by wrench or revving and setting brake, you can start the saw and with no load of a bar and chain the clutch drum should spin, in turn driving the pump and you should see oil coming from the oil port if it is working properly. Make sure the clutch is torqued down so the you don't shoot it at yourself or across the garage.

 

[Vicente]

If you have an mtronic saw that is constantly flooding, it is worth pressure testing the carb to see if the needle is seating, checking out the metering diaphragm for suppleness, do an mtronic reset. If the saw won't run long enough for the mtronic reset, depending on version, it could be a failed/failing fuel solenoid valve. If the fuel solenoid valve is black, they are prone to failure and the upgrade is green, $38.

Thanks, I talked to the owner at the shop this morning he's going check out the saw for me on warranty. It runs fine it floods just sitting there when it's warm even sitting in the shade it'll do it.

 

[john.massing]

Thanks, I talked to the owner at the shop this morning he's going check out the saw for me on warranty. It runs fine it floods just sitting there when it's warm even sitting in the shade it'll do it.

The ms201tc that i had the black fuel solenoid valve on which failed would let too much fu through at cold start (triangle) and flood, but would fire and run wide open throttle, then flood out and die at idle.

 

[john.massing]

The ms201tc that i had the black fuel solenoid valve on which failed would let too much fu through at cold start (triangle) and flood, but would fire and run wide open throttle, then flood out and die at idle.

Runs like a top now with the upgraded fuel solenoid valve and mtronic reset.