negative rigging

Reg · Oct 4, 2016

cedar said:
Thanks for posting the video. I have an RC-3001 that I have used on a few large removals. Today we were taking down a large ash tree and twice the rigging line got caught on the hook from the ratchet strap that secures the lowering device to the tree. Has this happened to anyone else and can someone tell me what I am doing wrong. I realize when negative rigging there is a moment of slack in the line before the cut piece runs through the block and I assume this is when the rigging line gets behind the hook.

First off you can reduce the slack caused whe the log folds by setting the block as close to the face cut as possible, and making sure you don't cut the undercut too deep. The deeper the undercut, the more slack is created.

Another thing is when you route the line through the bollard. The bollard should be offset from the block anyway. But as well as that, route the line to the furthest side of the bollard from where the block is set i.e if the block is set to the right of the bollard, then route the line down the left side (anti clockwise) of the bollard, or vice versa. So when the rope sags from above for that second, it won't hang out far enough to catch the hook. If you remember that you won't have any more issues.

cedar · Oct 4, 2016

Got it, thanks for the advice.

Michael Dick · Oct 5, 2016

Good job guys, a few things that you could have done without but overall you got the idea! Arborists around where I live scare me, I'm glad some others out there do their work efficiently.

Raven · Oct 5, 2016

Cool vid again sir. I love seeing the action from below the bollard - seeing that little bit of slack y'all were just mentioning, seeing the moment when force is applied and pulls up on the bollard and straps. I'm generally looking down and don't see any of that, it helps to see it to enhance my understanding of what's taking place.

Drewtree · Oct 9, 2016

Am I the only one who imagines "negative rigging" as tying and lowering wood while someone yells disparaging remarks at you?

JeffGu · Oct 9, 2016

That would be all of my rigging, when the wife is my groundie.

Tony · Oct 12, 2016

Roger_Barnett said:
Since the center of mass will fall the same amount regardless of where the load is tied, there's no need to tie the section close to the end being cut.

You only go to high if the knot that bears load first (i.e. The half or marl before the running bowline) is above the half way point of the piece. The distance of fall does not increase, but the piece capsizes in the rigging casuing inpact lower on the stem. Rarely a good idea.

Tony

TimBr · Oct 19, 2016

Michael Dick said:
Good job guys, a few things that you could have done without but overall you got the idea! Arborists around where I live scare me, I'm glad some others out there do their work efficiently.

Welcome to the TreeBuzz forum, Michael! I think you're going to like it here! Congrats on making your first post!

Tim

MikePowers321 · Oct 19, 2016

I read in a TS review, and saw in a few videos that some people were having trouble managing slack of the mounting straps. This is my caveman attempt at making things a bit more tidy and seems to be working well. It's just an old hatchet handle with a slit cut in it and some bungee. Just figured I'd share.