Minimalist SRT base-tie, 1 biner, lowerable

Another way to secure the bight on a Munter mule or slipped half hitch is to take another half hitch and drop it over the bight. I've used this tie off for decades on loads of brush, logs, gear tie downs and tarp/tent guyouts for camping. I've never once had it slip.

The key is to make the slipped bight large..think Mickey Mouse ear not Chip 'n Dale ear!
 
Later today.

Using the trunk tie with the end of the rope has merit. This is the simplest belayed/releasable trunk tie.

there are a couple of things that I would tweak just a little. What I've found over the years of using various trunk tie setups is that they roll up the trunk a little while climbing. This could lead to a problem in the case of a rescue/lower. If the belay has crept up it could be out of reach of the rescuer or at height that is too hard to untie and lower smoothly. Starting out with the trunk tie belay as low as possible helps to keep it within reach. Shorten the section of rope coming out of the clove hitch to the spliced eye.

Using a clove hitch should be reconsidered. Clove hitches are meant to be loaded outward, hard to find the right term here??? The way that its tied will put a load that rolls the round turns of the clove hitch. This could start the CH to untie or become unstable.

Another limitation, but this is not likely to need to be considered if the rope is long enough.

If the climber has a rope that is short AND they redirect through the tree they might not have double the TIP to ground length of rope in place. The correct length of rope for a trunk wrap anchor equals:

Ground to TIP X Three + 25% or so

Having the extra rope allows for adding the outward runs to redirects.

If a short rope is used with this system the rope couldn't be tied end to end on itself to effect a rescue/lower.

Like I said, this can be considered most of the time. My 150' Tachyon ropes will put me into almost any tree that I climb, even using this simple setup.

Good to have more ideas to use...Just In Case!
 
Wouldn't it be: Ground to Tip X 3 + 25% ?

[EDIT---Yes, X3...I changed my post
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Though I'm sure it's been discussed here before I think the simplest and most minimalist set up would simply be a tensionless hitch, "no-knot", or whatever you want to call it. Wrap the trunk 2 or 3 times and tie a knot or use a biner around the loaded portion of the line. Using a branch above to limit rotation is handy. Adding more rope to the system is also easy.
My personal preference for this type of anchor though is to have an anchor sling and biner or other device seperate from the load line. There are more options with a seperate anchor, including raising if necessary. But as far as minimalist setups, it doesn't get more simple than a trunk wrap. You can even get rid of the carabiner.
 
Caleb,

You're right, a trunk wrap is the simplest. Going back to old-school rigging [pre-bollards] this is how trees were rigged-out. With some refinements it works here too.
 
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Though I'm sure it's been discussed here before I think the simplest and most minimalist set up would simply be a tensionless hitch, "no-knot", or whatever you want to call it. Wrap the trunk 2 or 3 times and tie a knot or use a biner around the loaded portion of the line. Using a branch above to limit rotation is handy. Adding more rope to the system is also easy.
My personal preference for this type of anchor though is to have an anchor sling and biner or other device seperate from the load line. There are more options with a seperate anchor, including raising if necessary. But as far as minimalist setups, it doesn't get more simple than a trunk wrap. You can even get rid of the carabiner.

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Caleb,

You're right, a trunk wrap is the simplest. Going back to old-school rigging [pre-bollards] this is how trees were rigged-out. With some refinements it works here too.

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+1

If pressed to use a ground-anchor/lowering system; the following video shows a technique that has to be the most efficient (simple, no hardware) and intuitive enough for almost anyone to use.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QhIKI0AhzIY
 
I use that system all the time , but I clip a biner in the bight to the wraps, to prevent it from ever pulling out, which I'm sure it would not.
 
[ QUOTE ]


Using a clove hitch should be reconsidered. Clove hitches are meant to be loaded outward, hard to find the right term here??? The way that its tied will put a load that rolls the round turns of the clove hitch. This could start the CH to untie or become unstable.



[/ QUOTE ]

I know what you mean, and its a good point. I'm not sure about untie, but become unstable, yes possibly. Seemed set well with a single person bounce test.




If a short rope is used with this system the rope couldn't be tied end to end on itself to effect a rescue/lower.

I see how making a continuous loop by tying end to end would work out well, especially in tall trees, though it would only work with trunk wraps.
 
[ QUOTE ]

If pressed to use a ground-anchor/lowering system; the following video shows a technique that has to be the most efficient (simple, no hardware) and intuitive enough for almost anyone to use.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QhIKI0AhzIY

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You can also use a mule knot with an overhand lock around the loaded portion of the line in lieu of the consecutive half hitches. It eliminates having to untie more than one knot with one hand and belay with another. Not a big difference I know, but just another way of doing it.
I've also seen folks clip the wraps that go around the trunk into a carabiner as a kind of keeper. This uses a carabiner, but keeps all the strands there and prevents the load line from creeping around the tree. Though I think this is sort of a non-issue, it does keep everything tidy. Something like that might have been covered in the vid. I'll admit, I didn't watch the whole thing.
 
[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]


Using a clove hitch should be reconsidered. Clove hitches are meant to be loaded outward, hard to find the right term here??? The way that its tied will put a load that rolls the round turns of the clove hitch. This could start the CH to untie or become unstable.



[/ QUOTE ]

I know what you mean, and its a good point. I'm not sure about untie, but become unstable, yes possibly. Seemed set well with a single person bounce test.




If a short rope is used with this system the rope couldn't be tied end to end on itself to effect a rescue/lower.

I see how making a continuous loop by tying end to end would work out well, especially in tall trees, though it would only work with trunk wraps.





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i use a f8 revolver system as a trunk tie. i figure everyone knows how to operate a prussick or can be talked through very easily.

i have 60m of static rope which i tie the loop system (hunters bend) in all the time, tie it above the f8 revolver system so it doesnt have to pass through it. it would work equally well on any device.

the problem as i see it with srt is, that most people are going on second hand knowledge instead of being properly trained. i spent hours pouring through books and internet pages like this, but i only really understood the forces and how it all really works under the proper supervision of experienced srters. having said that i still have had a few close calls. it can be very dangerous if not used properly, hence the necessity for a good anchor to lower an injured climber.

i say this not to sound condescending but as a warning, there are many variables in an srt system which have to be taken into account. the loop system is basic srt practice but not necessarily if you've taught yourself.
 
letigre. I see your point on the loop. Not having used it in that loop configuration, and not thinking it through, I wasn't thinking about the knot being just above the anchoring system.

I like to keep my rope tail off the ground when I'm working, using a rope bag or just daisy chaining to shorten it enough to hang above the ground, or all the way up to my saddle.

I don't like it getting tangled with brush, or risk it getting pulled into the chipper. Having it on the ground means more work for the ground crew, which is usually the bottleneck.

I think I'd prefer having a second rope in a ropebag, connected together just above the anchor/ lowering device.

Thanks for the input.
 
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