Looking for a good 5/8-3/4 rigging line.

[Treetech]

For the past week I have been doing wildfire cleanup. Felling snags, climbing scortched trees to remove dead or burn wood. In this I have done a lot of pulling over snags, decent fir, hemlock,spruce, tanoak and alder.
In the process of pulling down a nice back leaning fir I believe I most likely have been close to the working load limit of my 9/16 double braid.
No the rope dose not have eyes in it. So that is my biggest concern. I know I have considerable lowered the limit worth a knot.

I'm looking for something that won't brake the bank.... Being poor man n all I have been putting this off to save up for other needed tools and gear...
For now I can make due with 100'-150' but that all depends on the price.....

Hey if any one has a rope laying around I am more than happy to buy a good condition rigging line. ...

 

[Jimmycrackcorn]

Soo.. I'm assuming this wildfire work includes allot of humping through the woods? Is there an inherent threat of heat? Like, could the rope be affected by a hot coal or burning embers?

I ask these questions above because if it was me & i was humping through the woods, I'd want the lightest tool available.. You might be able gain a better strength to weight ratio by going with some high modulous, technorah, dyneema, vectran etc.. In the case of Dyneema, heat would be somewhere in the back of my mind.. Also, i want to add, I'm no rope expert so i couldn't tell you much about those other than Technora is hard to burn & Dyneema is bad with heat..

Considering your just pulling stuff over in a static situation, something like these ropes might be of interest to you. For example ill regularly see half inch ropes rated at 18000-20000lbs.. Yes, that stuff can get really pricey, but you can find lot of deals on eBay.. Specifically sailing ropes.. Castobargains has alot of good stuff, generally at great price points too.. like 1/4 of what they retail for. You just have keep eyes open for long lengths.

Lastly, you always have stuff like All Gears Proforce which is a static only pulling line, which had some pretty decent ratings on smaller sizes, but it's big $$..

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[Jimmycrackcorn]

Find what your looking for Treetech?

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[Treetech]

I could use more..... What do you have?
Interested in any trades ?

 

[colb]

I could use more..... What do you have?
Interested in any trades ?

Try to stay away from trading for a rigging line. They are a consumable item with decreasing ratings over their life.

I think Allgear might be a good source for a cheap new rope. Keep in mind that the rating on 9/16th rope is often in the 10k+ lbs range. If you are pulling that hard you better be clear of the area.

Remember that a line up high in the tree gains a massive amount of leverage. If you apply 10k lbs side pull to a small top you may break it.

A rope lower in the tree is less likely to break, and can also provide sustained directional guidance if the pulling source can pull fast enough (such as a truck or skid steer). The problem, of course, is that the shorter lever does not permit as much pull on the tree.

What are your primary needs? Accuracy? Leverage?

What are you pulling with? Winch? Truck? MA pulley system?

Typically, the rope should be the weakest link in the system so that you avoid having hard objects (tree branches, metal pulleys, etc.) flying around in the event of failure.

Something else you can do is put a load cell (rock exotica enforcer) in your system to measure the force generated. Having accurate information can lead to great decision making. Unfortunately, load cells are pricey for your apparent budget.

Wish you success and safety.

 

[colb]

One more thing. You can use a couple 30 ton harbor freight low profile bottle jacks to add incredible force at the back cut. They cost about $40. The drawback is that they can be overloaded (since there is no force readout) if you crank them up too much while the hinge is still too thick, and can then burst a seal and put you in a rapidly devolving situation with the tree tipping backwards. If used in combination with wedges and a high pull line, you can pump the jacks just enough to help pound the wedges further in, then take up the rope slack, then repeat. That way, the wedges and rope are the primarily support and the jacks provide the power. Failure is perhaps less likely to be catastrophic.

 

[evo]

One more thing. You can use a couple 30 ton harbor freight low profile bottle jacks to add incredible force at the back cut. They cost about $40. The drawback is that they can be overloaded (since there is no force readout) if you crank them up too much while the hinge is still too thick, and can then burst a seal and put you in a rapidly devolving situation with the tree tipping backwards. If used in combination with wedges and a high pull line, you can pump the jacks just enough to help pound the wedges further in, then take up the rope slack, then repeat. That way, the wedges and rope are the primarily support and the jacks provide the power. Failure is perhaps less likely to be catastrophic.

If using a bottle jack, get a chunk of heavy plate steel, the little round piston can compress into the stem.

 

[TreeCo]

Spliced eyes are not needed or even wanted on a rigging rope.

 

[Jimmycrackcorn]

I'll second that, i don't think you want to be looking for a trade bud.. to many unknowns there.. I'll also second most of what he said with the placement & concerns of ripping the top out..

Have you looked into the sailing Cordage i suggested? Or is that a turn off because it's not dedicated arb rope? Id be curious to hear what the consensus is on these for pulling.. I will say one thing about those Cordage's, the high tech ones don't have a ton of stretch to them, so id assume theyre going to act like a different animal in your pulling situation. Im just throwing them out there because you can achieve higher mbs with smaller Cordage if your having to hump through the woods. That & you can find them cheap as Mill Ends.

On the flip side of that, some guys like a Cordage like "Dynasorb", because it's so stretchy that it acts like a return spring & continues pulling once that hinge starts to go. I'm not 100% sure but, i got the vibe that All Gears "Husky" had some decent stretch to it too.. don't quote me but i swear it was 7% @30% breaking strength. Which i believe is very similar to the dynasorb/polydyne 30% mark give or take a few.
Yale has some very good charts to go by..




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[colb]

I'll second that, i don't think you want to be looking for a trade bud.. to many unknowns there.. I'll also second most of what he said with the placement & concerns of ripping the top out..

Have you looked into the sailing Cordage i suggested? Or is that a turn off because it's not dedicated arb rope? Id be curious to hear what the consensus is on these for pulling.. I will say one thing about those Cordage's, the high tech ones don't have a ton of stretch to them, so id assume theyre going to act like a different animal in your pulling situation. Im just throwing them out there because you can achieve higher mbs with smaller Cordage if your having to hump through the woods. That & you can find them cheap as Mill Ends.

On the flip side of that, some guys like a Cordage like "Dynasorb", because it's so stretchy that it acts like a return spring & continues pulling once that hinge starts to go. I'm not 100% sure but, i got the vibe that All Gears "Husky" had some decent stretch to it too.. don't quote me but i swear it was 7% @30% breaking strength. Which i believe is very similar to the dynasorb/polydyne 30% mark give or take a few.
Yale has some very good charts to go by..




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X2 on the Husky % elongation. It's very high.