Just a pine removal
- Thread starter BRT
- Start date
Tree-Taylor
Branched out member
- Location
- Canada
I like that releasable wrap trick off at 0:30. Will definitely be using that one.
southsoundtree
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Olympia, WA
Good work.
You can be more efficient if you
-don't anchor the speedline to the base of the branch you are cutting. You leave a stub...two cuts, one extra stub to pick up and carry to the chipper. Instead, choke to the trunk...
or
-Do try to advance the speedline up a couple whorls / crotches, either choked to the stem, or re-directed down to you (like an SRT climbing system with a base-tie), where you can conveniently choke it. Not a swiss clock...a lot of options will be good enough. A steel biner and throw-weight (stays on biner) will advance a rigging line pretty far/ far enough.
When you are working way up high, you won't need to redirect the speed line if advanced above you, as the lesser slack added will not matter as much, as your line-angle will change less, and steeper speedlines are more forgiving.
When lower in the tree, the line angle changes more, and more slack is introduced into the system as you cut a limb, losing height and horizontal travel. The speedline forms a more closed angle between the ground-anchor and advanced-above canopy anchor. The equated to more slack introduced, all else being equal.
Easy to hitch a 2:1 from the ground anchor to the bottom of the speedline for tension and slacking, if needed. Also, MA helps suck up slack.
IF you don't want slack introduced, just redirect the speedline through a speedline sling attached to the next piece to be cut, or another appropriate location. By pre-slinging several limbs (while the ground crew is cleaning up the drop-zone), you can cut several at a time, and be re-directed to prevent much slack.
For MA,
Its easy to clove-hitch a biner on the speedline near the ground, and use the standing end of the speedline to form the 2:1 through this clove-hitched biner...very not-gear intensive, not on and off with the machine. I generally keep a rigging biner or two with each rope-bag, so it;s not a trip to the truck.
You can be more efficient if you
-don't anchor the speedline to the base of the branch you are cutting. You leave a stub...two cuts, one extra stub to pick up and carry to the chipper. Instead, choke to the trunk...
or
-Do try to advance the speedline up a couple whorls / crotches, either choked to the stem, or re-directed down to you (like an SRT climbing system with a base-tie), where you can conveniently choke it. Not a swiss clock...a lot of options will be good enough. A steel biner and throw-weight (stays on biner) will advance a rigging line pretty far/ far enough.
When you are working way up high, you won't need to redirect the speed line if advanced above you, as the lesser slack added will not matter as much, as your line-angle will change less, and steeper speedlines are more forgiving.
When lower in the tree, the line angle changes more, and more slack is introduced into the system as you cut a limb, losing height and horizontal travel. The speedline forms a more closed angle between the ground-anchor and advanced-above canopy anchor. The equated to more slack introduced, all else being equal.
Easy to hitch a 2:1 from the ground anchor to the bottom of the speedline for tension and slacking, if needed. Also, MA helps suck up slack.
IF you don't want slack introduced, just redirect the speedline through a speedline sling attached to the next piece to be cut, or another appropriate location. By pre-slinging several limbs (while the ground crew is cleaning up the drop-zone), you can cut several at a time, and be re-directed to prevent much slack.
For MA,
Its easy to clove-hitch a biner on the speedline near the ground, and use the standing end of the speedline to form the 2:1 through this clove-hitched biner...very not-gear intensive, not on and off with the machine. I generally keep a rigging biner or two with each rope-bag, so it;s not a trip to the truck.
