getting fat chunks to land flat

dspacio

dspacio

Branched out member
Location
Narragansett Bay
in my quest for excellence I am advancing beyond "getting stuff safely to the ground" toward, "not poking big divots in their yard" during the course of removals. this week I may have just been lucky, stuff landing flat, but a few back I had a maple where every piece wanted to spike directly into the ground. It was fine in the specific job (was a hazard tree, lawn not an issue) but I am looking for ideas on how to get stuff to land flat.

I am aware of using a snap cut and giving a proper shove so it does a half flip. and I have some basic ideas. I wonder if there are any techniques surrounding the shape of the hinge that can control the pop.

what have you all come up with? both for spar pieces, and the thick parts of branches. much appreciate any ideas or areas to adjust and work with. thanks
 
Definitely a pretty sharp climber, it just kinda ticked me. Dude definitely explained much better than I could.
I can get spar pieces to land flat usually. Lateral pieces not so much.
 
Why would we watch a click bait clown (treeson) ramble on for 23 minutes about getting logs to land flat, all while being incapable of getting many of his logs to land flat during his tutorial video on the subject?

Instead lets just listen to the short and concise words of wisdom from the venerable Mr. Beranek. The one 5th rule is what we have always used to get logs to land flat...Those who have been in this game a long time can go by feel many times, and use a log tape when its critical..
 
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rico said:
Why would we watch a click bait clown (treeson) ramble on for 23 minutes, and be incapable of getting many of his logs to land flat during his tutorial video on the subject?

Instead lets just listen to the short and concise words of wisdom from the venerable Mr. Beranek. The one 5th rule is what we have always used to get logs to land flat...Those who have been in this game a long time can go by feel many times, and use a log tape when its critical..
Click to expand...

Those who have been in this game need not to watch a video. The OP asked for some info and that was provided.
He obviously had never heard of, studied, or practiced the the Rule of Fifth’s, and now has the insight to advance his skill.


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Able Feller said:
Those who have been in this game need not to watch a video. The OP asked for some info and that was provided.
He obviously had never heard of, studied, or practiced the the Rule of Fifth’s, and now has the insight to advance his skill.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
And now the OP has the insight of the rule of fifths...It took Patrick all of 20 second to read the insightful words of Mr B. After 23 minutes of WORLDS OKAYEST LOG DROPPING TUTORIAL! How to drop logs out of a tree and land them flat every time, this fool still couldn't manage to get his logs to land flat. You think it might have something to do with his lack of feel/experience of the subject, or the extremely deep and open face undercuts he was making? The point is that when it comes to tree work we should all be very careful about who we take advice from on YouTube, and Treason displayed that he was in no position to give a tutorial on the matter.
 
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dspacio said:
in my quest for excellence I am advancing beyond "getting stuff safely to the ground" toward, "not poking big divots in their yard" during the course of removals. this week I may have just been lucky, stuff landing flat, but a few back I had a maple where every piece wanted to spike directly into the ground. It was fine in the specific job (was a hazard tree, lawn not an issue) but I am looking for ideas on how to get stuff to land flat.

I am aware of using a snap cut and giving a proper shove so it does a half flip. and I have some basic ideas. I wonder if there are any techniques surrounding the shape of the hinge that can control the pop.

what have you all come up with? both for spar pieces, and the thick parts of branches. much appreciate any ideas or areas to adjust and work with. thanks
Click to expand...
Beyond the logs, described in videos, small chunks from aloft are easiest when you cut small enough to pick and drop by hand as the amount of flips on a 4’ can be hard to gauge. Biggest fuckups tend to be chunks hitting wood/stumps/rocks on the ground and bouncing or shooting those pieces towards exposures. Having the groundie ontop of clearing drop zone will pay dividends. Snap cut and push the butt down as it tips over works well, Reg uses that technique in a few videos. Good on ya for progressing bud!
 
The calculation is a great starting point but depth/size of notch as well as terrain on ground and even how much the tag gets pulled have influence. Im almost never blessed with flat land like that. You have to look at it with your ‘minds eye’
 
This one, I use this with wood farther down the bole when a log won’t flip enough. Another technique for some situations is a pinch [humboldt]undercut with a very wide snipe (“Swanson” by some). The log/top breaks the hinge and then the butt drops fast which can get a top to land perfectly flat with practice.
 
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Stumpsprouts said:
The calculation is a great starting point but depth/size of notch as well as terrain on ground and even how much the tag gets pulled have influence. Im almost never blessed with flat land like that. You have to look at it with your ‘minds eye’
Click to expand...
Yep. Open faced, closed faced, depth of undercut, and manipulating the butt as its coming off the stump all play a role in how a log comes off. This is where experience and feel comes into play.

 
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thanks everybody. I had not heard the rule of fifths before. will bring that into play next time. Educated Climber has another video about flipping logs, that was the most useful resource I had so far. I really gotta get the Beranek book, even if it is PDF. They had Libraries of Alexandria for that kinda thing.
 
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