Favorite In Tree Saw For Bigger Wood

[Reedola]

Howdy!
I am wondering what saw you folks would recommend for medium-large sized wood. We have 200Ts, and of course the larger ground saws, but we are looking for something in-between. We recently modded out a 271 and it works, but we are looking for something more powerful. 261? Husky?
Any inout is great!
Thanks
Reed

 

[JeffGu]

That's a popular question. My answer is always the Stihl MS-261C-MQ saw, which is also a popular answer. The "Q" model has the quick-brake that stops the blade in less than a second, and doesn't require any change in how you operate the saw, or add any inconvenience. Worth the slight increase in price, especially for a saw you'll use in the tree. They're light, powerful and reliable.

 

[Kris Anderson]

I have a Stihl MS 361c that's not that much heavier than 261 and it kills it for the bigger stuff. 20" bar is perfect on it too

 

[Scheffa]

I run a stihl ms362cm up the tree once the wood gets to big for the 201tc, with a 20” bar on it I haven’t found anything more suitable for my needs, light weight, great power and comfortable to use, once the tree out grows that it’s straight to the 661

 

[owScott]

husky 346 18" bar. husky 372 xp full wrap.

 

[Z'sTrees]

Love my 550xp with a 20" but since I got the 562 it hasn't seen much use. Full wrap, decent dogs and a 24" bar in a nice light and compact package is hard to beat. It's a nice two saw combo with the top handle and is enough for most of our trees.

 

[MikePowers321]

I use 346xp with 20" Bar for Mid-size wood or
562xp with 24"

 

[rico]

Love my 550xp with a 20" but since I got the 562 it hasn't seen much use. Full wrap, decent dogs and a 24" bar in a nice light and compact package is hard to beat. It's a nice two saw combo with the top handle and is enough for most of our trees.

Bingo. A 562XP with a full wrap will make anything from a 20” to 28” bar absolutely sing. Stunning saw. If you need something bigger I would wait for the new 572xp.

 

[Oroboros]

Ya want a saw in the 60's class. I find my 550xp hasn't the jam I want in that size of wood.
I agree with the 562xp votes.

 

[RIVIEZZO TREE EXPERTS]

201 tc for climbing then 461 with 20" bArs then 461 with 25" then switch to 660's with 28" then 880's with 41" don't bother wasting money on mid size saws

 

[Tony]

Biggest advatage of the Husky 346-550 is straight up chainspeed. Always a good option in the tree. As stated above, the Husky 562 is not as “fast” from a chain speed prespective, but is an awesome all around saw. I find it cuts as well with a 20” bar as my much, much, much beloved 371. That is saying a lot!

Tony

 

[colb]

It's all about power and weight. If you need power, don't mess around with a 200t. Go straight to the 661. If you don't need power, then get the echo cs2011t.

 

[chiselbit]

And a sharp chain. Personally I don’t like slinging a 660 around if I don’t have to. I’ve got a 32” bar on one of my 562’s and it cuts just fine I’ll break out the 660 with a 36” or the 395 with a 42” when I need it but to me it’s worth losing a second or two on the cuts and not have that extra weight. I see videos on YouTube of guys that look like they should know better running some agonizingly slow, dull chains in trees. They won’t be able to run long bars on small saws but for the rest of us who actually know how to sharpen a chain give it a try.

 

[southsoundtree]

Being proficient at double-cutting helps a lot. You can often keep putting wood down quickly by not getting 2 guys out of the rhythm for a saw change and dragging it up the tree. Sometimes a double-cut or two is all it takes to get it down to felling level. Might take an extra minute or two to double cut, less if you can just chase your cuts accurately. Sometimes, I'd rather just let the ground work keep going, and keep the climber working independently.

A smaller saw chain, making a smaller kerf, takes less power.

I've definitely knocked off a 20"+ log with my 192t with a 14". Could have stopped working, lowered my saw, gotten it changed for a bigger saw, pulled up a heavier saw, reconnected it, and made the cut in one go.


Double-cutting in non-critical situations helps for when you have to double-cut in critical situations.





Sometimes its best to have power and bar length.

 

[colb]

Being proficient at double-cutting helps a lot. You can often keep putting wood down quickly by not getting 2 guys out of the rhythm for a saw change and dragging it up the tree. Sometimes a double-cut or two is all it takes to get it down to felling level. Might take an extra minute or two to double cut, less if you can just chase your cuts accurately. Sometimes, I'd rather just let the ground work keep going, and keep the climber working independently.

A smaller saw chain, making a smaller kerf, takes less power.

I've definitely knocked off a 20"+ log with my 192t with a 14". Could have stopped working, lowered my saw, gotten it changed for a bigger saw, pulled up a heavier saw, reconnected it, and made the cut in one go.


Double-cutting in non-critical situations helps for when you have to double-cut in critical situations.





Sometimes its best to have power and bar length.

I really like everything you're saying about double cutting, except that you "have" to do it in critical situations. In a critical situation, like cutting out a big top, I would prefer to change saws/bars to facilitate a single cut, and strap the wood down. A critical situation intrinsically necessitates overwhelmingly superior physics in favor of the climber and crew, including a full dip on the bar and enough power to lessen the chance of a barber chair, etc.

 

[southsoundtree]

What comes to mind was dumping logs from spurs on a 5'+ cottonwood.

Barber chair situations call for high power and sharp chain if cutting without boring and releasing.