Dolmar/Makita 6421

monkeylove

Been here much more than a while
Location
Roslyn, Pa.
Stopped in Home Depot and they had a rental for sale. Out the door for $300 including a new bar and chain. I couldn't pass it up.

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Now if I could get Brad or Mastermind to upjug it, port it, advance the timing and muffler mod it. Imagine how much fun that would be to run.
 
Imagine how much fun that would be to run.

I have a Miller Mod Saws ported 7910 with Poleman carb, timing advance, oiler mod, etc. and that thing is a monster. Downright scary, sometimes. The compression is so high, and the timing advanced enough to make it a real joy to start once it's hot (not!)... gotta put some serious uummphh to pulling that rope or it tries to rip your arm off. But, when it roars to life, guys on sport bikes slam on their brakes and look around, thinking they're about to be passed! The saw is impressive, and fun to use, but for a daily production saw it's overkill and a bit temperamental. I think I'm going to buy an M-tronic saw (441, 461 or 661) just because they don't need any retuning when the weather changes, and are easier to start when they're hot. The Dolmar fires right up when it's cold, but after that it can be painful if you don't focus on a good, hard and fast pull.
 
I've got a dcs 6000i. Wicked forestry-type saw. Just rehabbed the chainbreak.

I've recently experienced loss of power and am troubleshooting it. Compression is really high. Leading candidates:

1. new bar with no tip sprocket.
2. Newer but dull chain.
3. both.
4. chainbreak.

Any ideas?

I'm trying to figure out my new granberg g1012xt grinder. Tried to sharpen my pico chain while jump charging my mini skid battery the other day and couldn't quite figure it out. Anyone know if the granberg is compatible with the pico? it almost seemed like the chain was too low-profile for the grinder to rest on the links. I ended up not being able to raise the stone high enough to fit in the tooth.

The chain break rehab worked out well. There are no YouTube resources. Just got to have the tools to compress the spring when it's being put back together. Also, there are two e-washers in there. One of the pins has two grooves on it that accept an e-washer thingy. Choose wisely, or note where they are while excavating. I noticed there were lots of ball-bearing-like sawdust balls accumulated inside the housing. Not sure if they are good or bad... A compressed air tool was useful for cleaning out the rotational area where the handle meets the housing, without actually opening it and having to reassemble the spring (my spring popped out randomly because I let things slide off the second e-washer pin while testing the newly successful chainbreak range of motion...). There is a sponge that holds space in the plastic housing. Mine crumbled a bit when I took it out so I trashed it. it's probably there for a reason, though, so I wish I could have preserved it.

Enjoy your big-ash shaw, @monkeylove!
 

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