Corrosion on ZK2
- Thread starter oldoakman
- Start date
Worthaug
Carpal tunnel level member
- Location
- North Cakilaki
Worthaug
Carpal tunnel level member
- Location
- North Cakilaki
I would gather that since the high tech tethers don't absorb moisture, it remains on the steel post in the aluminum body. And since stainless doesn't corrode the aluminum would. Further, I would bet that the all polyester Oceans tether (newest version) would be the best option for high humidity areas.
Reed Wortley
CA# SO-6953A
CTSP# 01739
Worthaug
Carpal tunnel level member
- Location
- North Cakilaki
ghostice
Been here a while
Sone types of stainless steels are further away from aluminum on the galvanic series (see as example http://www.preservationscience.com/materials/metals/PGC.html) and naturally corrode when in contact, particularly if moisture is around. It's important to choose metals for fasteners that are as close together on the galvanic series as possible to minimize this corrosion. Corrosion can sometimes have the effect of freezing parts together but it can also loosen things up - in structural metals there is a phenomenon called rust jacking which can destroy the structural integrity of structural steelwork over time. This is a great heads up - I wonder if the corrosion effect could be hastened say if you were working in winter on roadway salt sprayed trees (just like power lines which sometimes have to be washed to restore effectiveness of insulators). Salt is a winter problem up north.
This is a hard part to inspect, especially if like me you put Locktite on the screw when installing your stiff tether, specifically so it doesn't loosen up!
This is a hard part to inspect, especially if like me you put Locktite on the screw when installing your stiff tether, specifically so it doesn't loosen up!
Last edited:
TimBr
Official Well Known Greeter
- Location
- Northern Virginia
Thanks ghostice. I completely understand the road salt issues in the north. Lived there most of my life and in the late 60's through the late 70's any vehicles built in Detroit would keep you awake at night rusting. The only salt/saltwater this is exposed to is my sweat which can be profuse in spring, summer and fall here in the south. I am surprised that the anodization failed like it did, especially since the tool is not constantly used. I have also had rust/corrosion issues with the HH1 and several steel carabiners and rings that get funky from the humidity.
ghostice
Been here a while
Gloves? Maybe a rinse and shot of compressed air to dry things off?
One thing we've always done is store all our climbing gear indoors in a warm dry area and also I found over the years (and there have been many . . ) that if it's a basement or workshop area we epoxy coat the concrete floors to seal out moisture and also any chlorides etc. that may be in the cement itself. I've had one work area where we had everything made of steel like saws, chisels etc. get a thin layer of surface rust inside of three months. Presumably there was moisture in the slab on grade or something and it was amazing how fast everything surface corroded. This was a new one on me. I also find in and out of the cold is bad for things generally due to condensation on tool surfaces. Heat and air movement and hanging stuff up to dry gets rid of this. At manufacture/ industrially, metal preparation before coating should control salt content of both the surface and the shot media, etc. used to do surface cleaning:
http://www.stone-tucker.com/en/Surf...oride-ion-test-kit-by-chlor-rid-international
Cool heads up!
One thing we've always done is store all our climbing gear indoors in a warm dry area and also I found over the years (and there have been many . . ) that if it's a basement or workshop area we epoxy coat the concrete floors to seal out moisture and also any chlorides etc. that may be in the cement itself. I've had one work area where we had everything made of steel like saws, chisels etc. get a thin layer of surface rust inside of three months. Presumably there was moisture in the slab on grade or something and it was amazing how fast everything surface corroded. This was a new one on me. I also find in and out of the cold is bad for things generally due to condensation on tool surfaces. Heat and air movement and hanging stuff up to dry gets rid of this. At manufacture/ industrially, metal preparation before coating should control salt content of both the surface and the shot media, etc. used to do surface cleaning:
http://www.stone-tucker.com/en/Surf...oride-ion-test-kit-by-chlor-rid-international
Cool heads up!
Totally correct you are looking at gslvanic corrosion due to disimilar metals comming into contact. I think the remaining radical would be the sweat to give the salt which allows the system to give off the electrical component that allows two different metals to corrode at the contact point. Just go to a boat store and get either lanecote or tef-gel and distribute on the connection points and you should relieve the symptoms. I used to dive in the sf bay commercially and work at Svendsen's boat yard. The boating world has more than just winches and rigging that our industry can borrow.
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