Hey folks. We are in the process of standardizing rigging practices at the company where I work. We recently had a bunch of rigging gear destroyed due to under-estimating dynamic loads. But that's another story.
One specific area where we have a difference of opinion is regarding the use of a "choked carabiner" on the rigging line.
The Z133 is clear that carabiners only be loaded on the major axis, which pretty much rules out "choking" configurations. That said, I'm typically comfortable using a steel carabiner in a choking configuration, with a half hitch above it, for static rigging applications (i.e. below the block). This is true on pieces smaller than 3/400 lbs. For larger pieces, I'll ditch the biner and tie a suitable knot.
I've been strongly against using a choked carabiner for negative/dynamic rigging. Several other climbers at my work are evidently very comfortable with this practice and use it regularly for taking tops up to 7/800 lbs. This seems like a dangerous practice. The physics are all wrong.
What are your opinions?
And, does anyone have evidence of rigging failures caused by a choked carabiner?
Thanks in advance.
One specific area where we have a difference of opinion is regarding the use of a "choked carabiner" on the rigging line.
The Z133 is clear that carabiners only be loaded on the major axis, which pretty much rules out "choking" configurations. That said, I'm typically comfortable using a steel carabiner in a choking configuration, with a half hitch above it, for static rigging applications (i.e. below the block). This is true on pieces smaller than 3/400 lbs. For larger pieces, I'll ditch the biner and tie a suitable knot.
I've been strongly against using a choked carabiner for negative/dynamic rigging. Several other climbers at my work are evidently very comfortable with this practice and use it regularly for taking tops up to 7/800 lbs. This seems like a dangerous practice. The physics are all wrong.
What are your opinions?
And, does anyone have evidence of rigging failures caused by a choked carabiner?
Thanks in advance.












