Cabling Liriodendron tulipifera...

Blinky

Blinky

Location
Chapel Hill, NC
I really should have taken pictures but I didn't. The question is general anyway.

I have a codom tulip (16"-18"dba), both stems leaning but one a good bit more than the other, around 45 degrees... right over a nice house. The tree appears healthy, the house is 11 years old... even in the winter all the plants look happy around this place.

The union looks weak with deep bark inclusion. No cracks that I could see yet. The house is a direct target, so I think to myself, 'self, this tree needs a cable'.

Then I think EHS or Cobra? Because of the mass involved I leaned towards steel but if I trust the idea that the tree will respond with reaction growth then Cobra or something similar would be appropriate.

Then I think, how would the Tulip do compartmentalizing the drill hole? I can just see one of those holes with the weathered gray sapwood and de-laminated bark around it with no callus or wound tissue at all.

So, Steel or Cobra?
 
I think when you are dealing with existing defects like the deep included bark you describe that a static system is best. As I am sure you know, L. tulipifera tend to grow ridiculously large, so try to picture this tree in 20+ years, and base your treatment on that vision, and the need for continuous inspection and upgrading of the system. Can you subordinate or remove the offending leader? I shudder to think of the wound size. Keep us posted,

-Tom
 
[ QUOTE ]

The union looks weak with deep bark inclusion. ... Steel or Cobra?

[/ QUOTE ]If movement will make it worse, steel.

Cat got your camera?
frown.gif
 
For that size tree, 2 ton Cobra would be adequate, as long as the diameter at the crotches is under 18" or so. 4 ton bettter.... Or the Yale product that Wesspur is selling. I've heard it's great, and simple. Cheaper than Tree Save.....

Doubt there's any need for steel. If there's any real weakness, maybe go with a static rope system.
 
[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]

The union looks weak with deep bark inclusion. ... Steel or Cobra?

[/ QUOTE ]If movement will make it worse, steel.

Cat got your camera?
frown.gif


[/ QUOTE ]

That's hard to say. I think limited movement would prevent failure in anything but a major wind event. But I can also envision a cable failing if the tree was severely loaded with ice.

I like the theory of dynamic cabling... building reaction wood and all. But every failed union I've seen with included bark was deeply included, like 24" or more vertically. This tree looks like one of those but there is no visual evidence of damage yet.

My question here is, how well does mature Liriodendron tulipifera compartmentalize drill holes. I just have this mental image of doing more harm than good by putting holes in it.

And my Nikon is busted, won't shoot anything but manual lenses... which is OK, I have several, but I just don't carry it around much these days.
 
That was my question too... Subordinating (or removing) the offending leader. ISA BMP's of cabling recommend pruning in addition to cabling, anyway.

As to drill holes, if you used steel, you could use J-lags to be less invasive, depending on the wieght and the lean. Also, if the tree is 18" below the weak crotch, I'm thinking you'd be cabling way up in the 6-8" tops, where smaller hardware could be used. Of course, that is IF there is a convenient location up that high, which is often an issue.

-Tom
 
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