I just purchased 250' of static kernmantile rope and was wondering if anyone out there had any special tricks or tips that I could use to help break it in faster. Right now it's real stiff. This is my first kernmantile anything special Ishould know about how to use it or things to watch out for?
breaking in Kernmantile rope
- Thread starter PUClimber
- Start date
- Location
- Retired in Minneapolis
The KMIII that I use for an access line has never gotten any softer. After talking with climbers who've used other static lines the conclusion is that they all stay pretty stiff.
- Location
- Retired in Minneapolis
Just climb on it! 
NickfromWI
Participating member
- Location
- Los Angeles, CA
Out of curiosity, why do you want it softer?
- Location
- Home of the New Jersey Devils
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Out of curiosity, why do you want it softer?
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I agree. Softer doesn't really mean much for access. What you want is a solid, low stretch line that will take the abrasion well and last a few years without worry.
For me, KMIII is just that. It works well with ascenders too. We use a 1/2" version for rescue as well.
Out of curiosity, why do you want it softer?
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I agree. Softer doesn't really mean much for access. What you want is a solid, low stretch line that will take the abrasion well and last a few years without worry.
For me, KMIII is just that. It works well with ascenders too. We use a 1/2" version for rescue as well.
- Location
- Ontario, Canada
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things to watch out for
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Don't try and descend on it like you would a dynamic rope.
Go really slow or you'll shock load your body, there's no give in the rope.
I've done it and it isn't pleasant.
things to watch out for
[/ QUOTE ]
Don't try and descend on it like you would a dynamic rope.
Go really slow or you'll shock load your body, there's no give in the rope.
I've done it and it isn't pleasant.
[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
things to watch out for
[/ QUOTE ]
Don't try and descend on it like you would a dynamic rope.
Go really slow or you'll shock load your body, there's no give in the rope.
I've done it and it isn't pleasant.
[/ QUOTE ]
mmm yes and no.....can you describe your rappel in mor edetail?
you can descend fast on Static rope, up to around 30km an hour, using rappel racks or Figure 8 rappel devices, but you need to slow near the bottom and bend your knees to absorb the landing. The drawback to fast descent is some rappel devices will build up and retain heat and glaze the outside sheath. Aluminum rap racks buold up more heat than hollow U abr stainless steel racks. Figure 8's in aluminum are the worst.
I have fast roped BW2 Goldline 11mm static line from over 250 feet up, with zero shock loading on the body. The only shock loading i find i get is when i miss a foot placement and ding my knee on the rocks....however i normally wear full on tactical PPE gear( elbow/kneepads, fort lewis boots, helmet)so this is'nt normally an issue for me. However i dont normally fast rope down, i maintain a steady 15km hour drop with no stops unless i am photgraping something or picking a climber off the rocks.
[ QUOTE ]
things to watch out for
[/ QUOTE ]
Don't try and descend on it like you would a dynamic rope.
Go really slow or you'll shock load your body, there's no give in the rope.
I've done it and it isn't pleasant.
[/ QUOTE ]
mmm yes and no.....can you describe your rappel in mor edetail?
you can descend fast on Static rope, up to around 30km an hour, using rappel racks or Figure 8 rappel devices, but you need to slow near the bottom and bend your knees to absorb the landing. The drawback to fast descent is some rappel devices will build up and retain heat and glaze the outside sheath. Aluminum rap racks buold up more heat than hollow U abr stainless steel racks. Figure 8's in aluminum are the worst.
I have fast roped BW2 Goldline 11mm static line from over 250 feet up, with zero shock loading on the body. The only shock loading i find i get is when i miss a foot placement and ding my knee on the rocks....however i normally wear full on tactical PPE gear( elbow/kneepads, fort lewis boots, helmet)so this is'nt normally an issue for me. However i dont normally fast rope down, i maintain a steady 15km hour drop with no stops unless i am photgraping something or picking a climber off the rocks.
To answer your question finally Nick I want it a little softer as far as being able to tie knots with it. I am currently trying to save up money for a sling and a grigri to attach to the base of the tree. Until then I have to rely on tying knots. I love the fact it doesn't stretch but it doesn't bend very well to get good knot control at the moment. Being a college student I don't have much time for work or side jobs and what little money I do get from that goes to groceries or rent. I've got about 4 jobs lined up to do when I get the time so I think after those I will be able to make my purchases. The kernmantile was a necessity after doing some damage to my velocity. I'm open to suggestions if anyone uses something other than a grigri.
At first you can put it in the washing mashine but dont spin dry it! I do that with all my ropes for industrial rope access,the`re getting much softer.
I`m not sure what kind of knot you are unable to tie,
friction ones like a blake, or those to tie in like a bowline.
for single rope access the grigri is a nearly proof device exept there are many others but i see no reason to use it
fixing the rope to the base of the tree...or cant u tie any knot in it /forum/images/graemlins/confused.gif
I`m not sure what kind of knot you are unable to tie,
friction ones like a blake, or those to tie in like a bowline.
for single rope access the grigri is a nearly proof device exept there are many others but i see no reason to use it
fixing the rope to the base of the tree...or cant u tie any knot in it /forum/images/graemlins/confused.gif
- Location
- Retired in Minneapolis
Nick made up a really slick anchor sling for my SRT system. I don't have a picture on my laptop so I'll have to describe the rig.
Nick used 3/8" coated Tenex and spliced large nylon thimbles into each end of a 20 foot piece. This allows me to anchor around a 6' diameter tree. Then he made up a eye/eye sling using uncoated Tenex. One eye is tight, just a lip fit for a biner. The other end is large enough to make a three wrap Prusik. This sling is tied onto the coated sling and choked on the base of the tree. I always adjust the Prusik down so that the biner is snug against the nylon thimble.
Currently I'm using a four bar rack with a hyper bar for my anchor. There are lots of reasons for using a rack. The most important reason is that the use is more intuitive for any rescuer to use. All they will have to do is untie the backups and lower the victim. Since the access line exits the rack down the rescuer pulls up on the rope to control the lowering speed. The rescuer doesn't have to stand right at the base of the tree under any falling debris. The rack can be operated one-handed, unlike the Gri-Gri, I'd or many other friction devices.
A better choice for an anchor device would be a five or six bar rack. There is more friction developed. Racks made with u-shaped bars will dissipate heat better than the aluminum bars.
Racks are really inexpensive and low tech. They will tolerate a bump better than most other devices. If debris gets inside a rack it will still operate better than the other devices.
The one down side of using racks is that they have a very low 'cool-factor' They are unglamorous and clunky...but, boy...do they work well in this application.
For more information:
http://storrick.cnchost.com/VerticalDevicesPage/VerticalHome.shtml
Nick used 3/8" coated Tenex and spliced large nylon thimbles into each end of a 20 foot piece. This allows me to anchor around a 6' diameter tree. Then he made up a eye/eye sling using uncoated Tenex. One eye is tight, just a lip fit for a biner. The other end is large enough to make a three wrap Prusik. This sling is tied onto the coated sling and choked on the base of the tree. I always adjust the Prusik down so that the biner is snug against the nylon thimble.
Currently I'm using a four bar rack with a hyper bar for my anchor. There are lots of reasons for using a rack. The most important reason is that the use is more intuitive for any rescuer to use. All they will have to do is untie the backups and lower the victim. Since the access line exits the rack down the rescuer pulls up on the rope to control the lowering speed. The rescuer doesn't have to stand right at the base of the tree under any falling debris. The rack can be operated one-handed, unlike the Gri-Gri, I'd or many other friction devices.
A better choice for an anchor device would be a five or six bar rack. There is more friction developed. Racks made with u-shaped bars will dissipate heat better than the aluminum bars.
Racks are really inexpensive and low tech. They will tolerate a bump better than most other devices. If debris gets inside a rack it will still operate better than the other devices.
The one down side of using racks is that they have a very low 'cool-factor'
They are unglamorous and clunky...but, boy...do they work well in this application.For more information:
http://storrick.cnchost.com/VerticalDevicesPage/VerticalHome.shtml
