Anyone else give-up on routine "friction-saver" usage?

it works extremely well, just have to lanyard off when taking the wrench off the line, or just let it hang (thats what I normally do)


let us know how well it works
I used to stand the Tether/Wrench up and connect the Wrench to the Eye Splice Side (Working End, Working Part, etc…).
 
it works extremely well, just have to lanyard off when taking the wrench off the line, or just let it hang (thats what I normally do)1


let us know how well it works
Working a tree DRT with a loose Rope Wrench and a tether flopping around on top of your hitch? Marvelous idea son.
 
I dont do it on working climbs, and no, its not hanging onto of my hitch, undo slic pin, let it drop, and hang off my bridge

normally I use it just to get my tail up in the tree, stops stuff hanging up on it as much
I must be fucking confused here because you just told us in your prior post that you DONT remove your Wrench from your line, and instead just let it hang.. Now your telling us that you pull your slic pin, which is precisely how you remove a Wrench from a line.
 
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"just have to lanyard off when taking the wrench off the line, or just let it hang (thats what I normally do)"

You words are crystal clear here son. You are telling us the you do not take your wrench off the line, and instead 'let it hang". Why is it that your bullshit never seems to add up Sap?
 
OK...back to happier times!

I'm back from the field (forest), and here's my report. Treesap, a most excellent approach to transitioning from SRT to DRT and back again. It's such a simple approach, but really effective. Thank you for offering up the idea.

It all remains interesting as I have a couple different cambium savers that I carry with me. The multiSLING works well with spliced eye end of the rope (the same end we're talking about above transitioning from SRT to DRT). However, when the situation/deployment is better served by a Dan House Rope Sleeve, the other end of the rope is more convenient, as the spliced eye doesn't fit through the sleeve easily. I have pulled it through with throwline and a clove hitch pulled super tight...but it's a pain.

Anyway...thanks again. My aim is to be versatile and smooth. This helps.

Cheers,

ZK
 
Despite what the unexperienced 15 year old boy is suggesting, we should ALWAYS lanyard in when transitioning from one climbing system to another...Not doing so would be dangerous and stupid...
I agree with your “this is unacceptable and dangerous mindset” but you should let it rest man. There’s a more constructive way to go about this.

such are the dangers of the internet. Anyone can sound like they know what they’re talking about. When they don’t and get called out on it, they get tons of attention. Seems to kind of fuel the fire.

wish we could have some kind of age requirement or something on here… one shouldnt be able to comment on “working climbs” when they’re years away from that. Shit I’m a couple years in and I don’t even feel qualified to comment :b

I initially respected the young kids interest in tree work but I’m hoping we can see less answers and more questions there. Or maybe he’s been tainted and should just leave altogether. Idk.
 
if I do NOT open or dis connect any life support gear, then I do not need to lanyard off (the rope wrench is NOT life support, and letting it hang from my bridge connection without opening said connection is 100% safe)

let me dumb this down for Mr.peabrain here, un doing the slic pin. and letting the wrench drop is not switching life support systems, your hitch WILL in fact hold you
I agree with your “this is unacceptable and dangerous mindset” but you should let it rest man. There’s a more constructive way to go about this.

such are the dangers of the internet. Anyone can sound like they know what they’re talking about. When they don’t and get called out on it, they get tons of attention. Seems to kind of fuel the fire.

wish we could have some kind of age requirement or something on here… one shouldnt be able to comment on “working climbs” when they’re years away from that. Shit I’m a couple years in and I don’t even feel qualified to comment :b

I initially respected the young kids interest in tree work but I’m hoping we can see less answers and more questions there. Or maybe he’s been tainted and should just leave altogether. Idk.
What would you suggest I do Lupin? Sit back and say nothing as someone who has never worked around power lines shares his opinions on this very dangerous subject matter? Sit back and say nothing as someone who has never even run a saw in a tree gives faulty advice on sharpening saws? Sit back and say nothing as someone with zero qualifications is telling members they do not need to lanyard in when transitioning between climbing system? How long do we continue letting this utterly unexperienced little boy pose as a knowledgeable arborist here? Do we just wait until some unsuspecting member gets hurt. Do we just sit back and hope that @Zebco Kid doesnt follow Saps advice, and not bother to lanyard in when he transitions from SRT to DRT?
 
I find I must make the comment/ reminder here (please not taken as preachy I hope) that most of the arb world gear revolves around - work positioning systems - not fall arrest systems and such.
Definition in most jurisdictions around the world is that a fall or jolt (or uncontrolled swing?) must not exceed about 20" (less than 2 feet - not even down to your knees . . ). Smooth climbing. Don't stress the tree or tie point. And no drops onto the gear. Lanyard'ing in is a peachy idea. And there's the spectre of two rope (two tie ins at all times) climbing hanging around out there in regulation land. Rope snaps/ positioners available today make this a breeze (unless the tree is a honkin' big stem). My 2 highly devalued Canadian cents for this morning.
 
if I dont open the biner, I dont have to lanyard off, its as simple as that really

if you cannot understand the fact that your 100% wrong right now, then fuck off
I hate to burst your unexperienced and ignorant bubble, but in the scenario you have described you are in fact transitioning from one system to another, and you are in fact opening carabiners in the process.

When an EXPERIENCED PROFESSIONAL is SAFELY transitioning from one system to another they will always lanyard in first, deload their system, complete their transition, load/test their new system, and then and only then will they remove their lanyard.

As I have said many times, you are a danger to some of the lesser experienced members here, and the fact that you continue to advocate for NO LANYARD simply proves my point.
 
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This is very well described by Master Oceans in this video from Moss:


I love this video as I learnt several tricks from you and Moss. The highlights for me, are when at the beginning Moss proves that he is not a lousy rubber cook... then comes the cheese sharing (did not like the soup?). But the main one is at ~6mn when I learnt how to properly park the rope wrench, when in MRS. The final descent in MRS+SRS is also very surprising..
For those of you who are lost, just watch the video, it's really worth it!
 
what part of NOT OPENING the biner connected to your bridge are you failing to understand

if you do NOT open it, you never come off a life support system, so you do NOT need a lanyard


if I dis connect my harness from a life support system (i.e, remove my carabiner from my bridge) then I lanyard off



please stop replying to me

ive asked you many times, for the love of god, STOP REPLYING TO ME

Since you continue to advocate for an extremely dangerous practice in which we don't lanyard in and test our new system before trusting our life with it, I would like to point you to 6:25 in the aforementioned video...Please notice the order in which the venerable @oceans performs his transition from SRT to DRT..Lanyard in, deload his system, remove his anchor system, test/load his new system, and then and only then remove his lanyard. That is how an experienced and knowledgable professional safely transitions to a different climbing system.

Until you become an experienced and knowledgable professional, I would once again kindly suggest that you stop handing out advice on this forum. The health and lives of other members depend on it.
 
"Please notice the order in which the venerable @oceans performs his transition from SRT to DRT"

I watched the above video a few times. I'm trying to understand how the prusik works on the DRT system setup for SRT.

Currently, I am using a Quickie with an Alpine Butterfly to secure my TIP from the ground. Am I correct in believing that the prusik in the video was set at the TIP, and not raised from the ground?

Sorry to be so dense...this stuff is surprisingly intricate, and safety critical.
 
"Please notice the order in which the venerable @oceans performs his transition from SRT to DRT"

I watched the above video a few times. I'm trying to understand how the prusik works on the DRT system setup for SRT.

Currently, I am using a Quickie with an Alpine Butterfly to secure my TIP from the ground. Am I correct in believing that the prusik in the video was set at the TIP, and not raised from the ground?

Sorry to be so dense...this stuff is surprisingly intricate, and safety critical.
It was set at any desired location long after accessing the tree. In that video (which could be titled ‘Tree Climber Soup’, brilliantly produced by @moss), I had accessed a lower region with a Canopy Anchored Stationary System. I then switched to a Moving System to alternate my way to the top.

After that, I set a Cambium Saver and began moving around and checking out the tree. That’s when I began transitioning back and forth from Moving to Stationary, but without altering my Cambium Saver.

There are times when a moving system is ideal for anchoring, but you might want to move considerable distance up and down. By making the switch as I did in that vid, you can get the 1:1 benefits of SRS when you need it. Then you can alter back to MRS without going all the way back to your Canopy Anchor. It’s all done mid-line, wherever, whenever.

Hope that all makes sense!
 

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