Anyone climb on 13 mm htp or km3 max?

RBJtree

RBJtree

Branched out member
Location
Pittsburgh
I've been thinking, which is dangerous of course, I'd like to try a 13 mm static rope. I've been splitting time between a bdb and an hh2, I think they could handle smooth hard rope at 13 mm. I imagine it would be so much easier to grip than 11 mm or even 11.7 . But would it play nice with ascenders? Anybody ever try this?
 
I have two hanks of the 13mm KM3 (the blue/white version) and have had no luck with it using a Rope Wrench or the Akimbo. One of them I now use for a speedline, and the other is sitting in a rope bag until I find something that actually works well on it for an ascent line. Devices like the ISC D5 and the large Petzl I'D work on it fine, but that's all I've found, so far, that do. I don't have a HH to try on it.
 
The HH is awesome on 13 mm rope, but the BDB was a no go for me on 13mm as it wouldn't tend worth a shit. Dont know about the KM3 but the Sterling HTP and WorkPro are actually 12.5 mm
I run 13 mm every so often and the CT foot ascender and the Mini Saka both work great on it.
 
I was just talking to a guy in another place who says km3 13 works great in the runner. @rico I'm also running a ct foot ascender and a mini saka so thats good news to me. I think going to see if I can my hands on some km3 13 mm. Gap said they can order it for me, but teufelberger has been taking up to 4 months to fill their orders, so it might take a while.
 
I've used KMIII with my Uni's for a long time, especially for long ascent/access.

More typically I use Tachyon. The main reason is I like the hand of Tachyon and T stay soft so it flakes down into my pack better than KMIII which can get a bit stiff.
 
Tom Dunlap said:
I've used KMIII with my Uni's for a long time, especially for long ascent/access.

More typically I use Tachyon. The main reason is I like the hand of Tachyon and T stay soft so it flakes down into my pack better than KMIII which can get a bit stiff.
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I had km3 max 11mm with my bulldog bone. It ran great with the bone, it was just too small and smooth for my hands to grip. Definitly doesn't flake well! I can deal with less than ideal flaking. I am hoping km3 in 13mm will have the good qualities of the rope but still be large enough to grip.
 
southsoundtree said:
I roll with a HH on 13mm HTP. Works well. Rope-walker, too.
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I consider you to be one of the resident HH experts so I would love to hear which hitch and hitch cord your running with the 1/2" HTP. HTP is the my favorite rope to date, but the 11 mm is getting a little rough on my hands so I am pondering the idea of giving the 1/2" a go.
 
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rico said:
I consider you to be one of the resident HH experts so I would love to hear which hitch and hitch cord your running with the 1/2" HTP. HTP is the my favorite rope to date, but the 11 mm is getting a little rough on my hands so I am pondering the idea of giving the 1/2" a go.
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I was running 12.5mm HTP on the HH2 with 9mm Rit in a distel.
HTP is stiff as hell and a real pain in the ass to tie knots and when doing redirects.
I eventually nicked it with my saw and retired it and went back to Vortex.
Love my vortex.
 
Vortex is easy on the hands and has a smooth, consistent feel with the HH2. I could not live with a climbing line that sucked as bad as HTP does with knots.
 
I've got a lot of miles on my HH.
Dave is the resident expert.


I'm not sure what you're knotting so much or why it's so problematic. My scaffold hitch stays on my termination biner fine. I'll occasionally put a clove hitch in place. Running bowline with the working end for a canopy/ base-tie.

YMMV.

Also, Dave, how much is the effect of limited hand-dexterity?
 
With HTP, knots like the scaffold hold OK if they are allowed to set, but I expect more from my climbing line. Vortex will hold any knot well, even if it is used for just a quick set, with no worries.

Dexterity is also a problem that is exacerbated with HTP. Cold and wet hands, or nerve damage, which I do have, are both common in our line of work.
 
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I wouldn't mind a spliced eye for the end. It holds OK, not great, that's true.

I use a bit of 'wing chun' style of tying many knots (not a scaffold), including the RB...short, quick hand movements, not tying with the end of the rope. Hard to explain. The loops are pretty loose, and all fall down tight to the set position, a bit like Bob Ross, all coming together at the end.

I'll take the the tradeoff for the low-elongation.

Different strokes for different folks.
 
I too live with the less than stellar knotability of the HTP for the no-bounce factor and the cable like quality when weighted. I have been eyeing Sterlings WorkPro for the reported better hand but am worried that it might have a little too much stretch for me?

How is the bounce factor on the Vortex DSMc? I have found that the stats on paper for most ropes are utter bullshit and tell us almost nothing about how they actually perform in the real word. Recently purchased a so-called low elongation static line that looked damn near perfect on paper but felt like a funcking rubber band when I actually used it. Pissed me off!!
 
southsoundtree said:
I've got a lot of miles on my HH.
Dave is the resident expert.


I'm not sure what you're knotting so much or why it's so problematic. My scaffold hitch stays on my termination biner fine. I'll occasionally put a clove hitch in place. Running bowline with the working end for a canopy/ base-tie.

YMMV.

Also, Dave, how much is the effect of limited hand-dexterity?
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An Alpine Butterfly, which I use allot, is a real pain in the ass with HTP.
 
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