A different type of versatility - SRS and MRS

Zebco Kid

Branched out member
Location
Ashland, Oregon
Good morning, All.

Yesterday I want out for a little climb. I had a few goals in mind: 1. I had in my possession a brand new, very “sexy” 150’ Vega Double Sewn Eye rope that I was excited to try (how geeky is that!). 2. I have been using a Notch ankle ascender, but I find the rope slips out too much.I had a Petzl Pantin that was setup for a left foot, and I needed to have it working on my right foot. I sewed some new straps, and wanted to see if it was left/right agnostic. It is. Works great…and locks the rope in place. 3. There’s a hitch I learned some years back that can be used for SRS without any other mechanical device. I wanted to refamiliarize myself with it. I did. It works! 4. I wanted to climb SRS, then transfer latterly to another limb (more on this).

So…#4 on this list is the subject of this post. Like most of us, I learned to climb MRS. Here in Northern California we have a lot of Oaks. My favorite activity is moving latterly from one limb to another.

My approach was SRS. Because I had my 150’ rope, I had plenty to work with. I deployed a canopy anchor using an alpine butterfly and a Quickie. Half way up the tree, I decided to move laterally to another limb. I deployed my throw bag, attached a homemade grappling hook, and retrieved the throw line. This is where things got wonky. I believe “the concept/technique” was lost on the climber.

I connected the non-working end of my line to the throw line and pulled it over the lateral limb and back to me. My thought was to connect MRS as I have many times when my initial tie in was also MRS. This was the first time doing so with SRS at the initial tie in.

I’m sure the experienced folks reading this can see that the problem being created. The MRS was pulling the rope with the alpine butterfly and quickie down toward me.

So. I’m sure there’s much to learn here. I’m wondering how to properly deploy this technique….or is combining SRS and MRS in the manner I attempted not a thing. In other words, if you want to be moving laterally, then MRS is the way to go from the start so you can keep detaching from your prior anchor?

This is a lot to describe. I hope it makes sense. I’m prepared to get flamed, but I hope not. Thank you for your patience in deciphering my situation.

Kindly,

David

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I think that using the tail of your climb line rather than your retrieval leg would eliminate this problem. You may have had a brain fart. Leave a longer tail next time since you're planning on adding in MRS anyways. If you MRS down, your retrieval side doesn't have to be long because your rope is always retrievable in MRS mode.
 
Super. I will go out in a bit and get it right (as you suggest)

Thank you….and excellent deciphering of my post! I thought I was going to have to send out an enigma to anyone interested in understanding my situation.

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How do you like the Vega? I just got a hank that is factory spliced with a bury splice. I need to do the other end an in preparation milked 3 feet of cover off the fore. Can't wait to get the other splice done to try it out.
 
Njdelaney,

Just back from the climb. Yes…you were correct. Worked like a charm. Did get a bit tangled up on the descent…but that’s simply because I’m dopey sometimes. Safe…but dopey!

I also experienced the truth behind a Texas Tug. When it came to retrieving my SRT line, all was good until the Quickie came to the same level as the rope being retrieved. A pulley would have been nice.

Oldoakman, the Vega is really nice. It’s more stout (tight hand) compared to some of my other ropes (like Teufelberger Ash), which are super supple from the beginning.

The tight nature of the rope created a more “waxy” feeling. When I tight my hitch cord, I started with a 26”. I tied. Diestel and it slid. Then I tied a Knut (a new favorite). It slid too. I changed to a 28” Diestel with an additional wrap, and all was good.

Not sure if it’s important, but I love the color…kind of peach.

A good short climb. Ahh! Now Christmas dinner.

Kindly,

David
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Marlow Vega with 2 sewn eyes is what Richard Mumford @Richard Mumford-yoyoman swears by with the HHXF, says it doesn't milk for him at all. I wanted to try it but it's hard to get here.

@Zebco Kid most issues like this can be easily dealt with by just using a 2nd rope in MRS/DdRT. This includes issues around using the tail of your line in creative ways as well as the many different ways of setting up retrievable redirects on your main line. Yes all these things can be done with just a single rope, but it's so much easier to use a 2nd line. If I'm rec climbing for fun and I think I might need another rope, I just pre-tie it to my main line before I leave the ground. When I have help on the ground, it's never a big deal to call for a 2nd line...

I know some see a 2nd line as needlessly overcomplicated, while re-using your tail as simple and elegant. I climbed most of my years with just 1 rope, but now I love using a 2nd. To me, the 2nd line is the simple and elegant solution. To each his own :)
 
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Marlow is one of the best 24 strand I have ever used, but availability is a real issue. It would probably be my go to if I could find it in 600 ft spools or 300 hank. I have really been enjoying AllGear’s 11.8 as of late, and to me they have a similar feel.
 
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Muggs,

Thank you for your thoughts. I’m sure you’re right. I do a lot of hiking in to my climbing locations. The second rope would be a burden for this mule.
You might get value out of a nice little 50 ft long lanyard, 11 mm. Doesn't take up much room. That's what I like for rec climbing. Gives me nice options in DdRT...
 
You might get value out of a nice little 50 ft long lanyard, 11 mm. Doesn't take up much room. That's what I like for rec climbing. Gives me nice options in DdRT...
Good morning, Muggs,

I do use a longer lanyard. I have had 30’, but recently switched to 22’. I found the longer lanyard to be carried without full deployment, so I decided to dial in with frequency as the driver of length.

With your 50’, are you staying on the main line and connected to the ground?

Thank you.

David
 
Marlow Vega with 2 sewn eyes is what Richard Mumford @Richard Mumford-yoyoman swears by with the HHXF, says it doesn't milk for him at all. I wanted to try it but it's hard to get here.
True, it does not milk with the HHxf and sewn eyes at each end. I have used it for years now, climb to and from the ends and sometimes in the middle. I can't speak to other devices as the HHxf does not put a bend in the rope and if you think about it, the mechanical friction points squeeze the rope together before the hitch slides over the rope on descent.
 
Marlow is one of the best 24 strand I have ever used, but availability is a real issue. It would probably be my go to if I could find it in 600 ft spools or 300 hank. I have really been enjoying AllGear’s 11.8 as of late, and to me they have a similar feel.
I’m really enjoying their 11.8 as well. Picked up the blue craze. Nothing bad to say about it. Low elongation, nice hand, doesn’t pick
 
The allgear 11.8 has been a great conifer wreaking rope for me. Very minimal elongation when I have 250-350 ft in my system. The smaller and more slick ropes can be really rough on the hands when your working at bigger heights and this stuff does have great hand. The rope feels quite sturdy and seems to be holding up very well. It is a little heavier than some of the ropes out there , but I have found that the little extra weight mean that my device is quicker to start self tending and following me around like a dog on a leash. All in all I have been very happy with this rope, and the performance I am getting on it with the HHXF puts a smile on my face.

Would love to here your thoughts on the Arbo Space Aspen when you get it.
 
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The allgear 11.8 has been a great conifer wreaking rope for me. Very minimal elongation when I have 250-350 ft in my system. the smaller and more slick ropes can be really rough on the hands when your working at bigger heights and this stuff does have great hand. The rope feels quite sturdy and seems to be holding up very well. It is a little heavier that some of the ropes out there , but I have found that the little extra weight mean that my device is quicker to start self tending and following me around like a dog on a leash. All in all I have been very happy with this rope, and the performance I am getting on it with the HHXF puts a smile on my face.

Would love to here your thoughts on the Arbo Space Aspen when you get it.
Same, I can’t do those 11mm ropes. Makes my hands cramp up quicker. Yeah for sure, definitely stoked to give the aspen a try.
 
The allgear 11.8 has been a great conifer wreaking rope for me. Very minimal elongation when I have 250-350 ft in my system. the smaller and more slick ropes can be really rough on the hands when your working at bigger heights and this stuff does have great hand. The rope feels quite sturdy and seems to be holding up very well. It is a little heavier that some of the ropes out there , but I have found that the little extra weight mean that my device is quicker to start self tending and following me around like a dog on a leash. All in all I have been very happy with this rope, and the performance I am getting on it with the HHXF puts a smile on my face.

Would love to here your thoughts on the Arbo Space Aspen when you get it.
How would you say it compares to marlow vega? I've been running the vega for a while with the BDB, and found it to be low stretch, stays round under load, good hand, and pretty abrasion resistant. I'm not usually one to split hairs, but I would like a slightly larger feeling rope, without jumping to 12mm+.
 
Your description of the marlow vega could be used to describe the Allgear 11.8, but the Allgear is definitely larger. I am loving the Allgear with the RR Pro, HHXF, and the HC/Wrench combo, and I am currently getting the best performance I have ever had out of both the HHFX and the HC/Wrench combo. The 11.8 with some epi 9.3 gets my highest recommendation.

I don't know which version of the BDB you are running, but my recent experience with the elongated bollard version and the Allgear was not a positive one. The BDB basically locked up with this rope and wouldn't tend slack in anyway, shape, or form. It was a struggle to get it to flow up or down the rope, and it was so bad in MRS that I could barely descend. I actually pulled the BDB off the rope and used a taut line hitch to get me to the ground.

I can't speak to the adjustable BDB's compatibility with the Allgear 11.8, but if the elongated BDB is your main squeeze I would definitely be looking elsewhere...
 

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