A couple quick Spur and Flip-line tips

Great video, Mr Rico. was cool to hear about rolling your flip-line i haven't had to do it yet haven't been in any big wood really. one thing about the strait legged style for me is it makes me feel more stable when my knees get bent i feel like i'm going to gaff out. i'm sure that's just me being newer ect
 
That must be another pic from that big Mahogany removal Swing? I dont remember seeing this one before... killer photo bruv....Wesspur calendar worthy stuff....
Dem folks don't notice little old me. I know Nice guy Dave well. We have judged in the same ring at a comp. Love Wesspur folks. Solid arb supply. Thanks bro. I try a thing.
 
Nice video, thanks.

Question: I'm up in the PNW and spend a lot of time on spurs, but I'm sure if I were to come down and spend any time in the trees around you I'd certainly be one of those guys who doesn't know my ass from my elbows. Our average 'tall' tree (mostly doug fir) around here is maybe 120', under 40", and most of the time I can do it with my 10' steel-core, occasionally using a 12' but even that is usually only necessary for the bottom twenty of the tree. They tend to taper down to well under 24" before you get all that high. In your opinion, what size tree does the soft-core flipline and roll technique become the better method? Or is it always better regardless of size?
 
Last edited:
Nice video, thanks.

Question: I'm up in the PNW and spend a lot of time on spurs, but I'm sure if I were to come down and spend any time in the trees around you I'd certainly be one of those guys who doesn't know my ass from my elbows. Our average 'tall' tree (mostly doug fir) around here is maybe 120', under 40", and most of the time I can do it with my 10' steel-core, occasionally using a 12' but even that is usually only necessary for the bottom twenty of the tree. They tend to taper down to well under 24" before you get all that high. In your opinion, what size tree does the soft-core flipline and roll technique become the better method? Or is it always better regardless of size?
I probably should have been a little more clear in the vid. You Can roll a wire core flip-line. I myself worked for decades on a 7/8" wire-core Manilla flip-line, but was forced to learn how to properly roll it because of the size of the timber I was working in..... The problem is that you a can also push a wire-core flip-line so many guys never learn to properly roll a line because they can get away with just pushing their flipline up a tree. That is until they get into a tree that it too big. The technique is the same with a wire -core, but you are just working with a stiffer line...

As far as what size you need to transition for pushing to rollin is up to you and your technique... You will know real quickly the point at which pushing your line up the tree is no longer working. Hope that helps..
 
I envy that pace and rhythm, rico! I would love to get more pillars like that, just to really stomp on. Most of my trees wont let me get more than 20' before the limbs or twist or kink make me renegotiate my motion. I also never got into wire cores and the roll is great for the small stuff too, as I do more of a shuffle and switch hands that I lead with. This allows me to follow the high side and stay on top of any lean or twisty curve as it comes. Cheers
 
I can’t watch the video so I don’t know if this was mentioned or not. One of the most important parts of rolling a flip line or any line, is to have slack on either end. The amount of sack depends on the diameter of the tree. Think of it as if instead of the flip line supporting you, you are supporting yourself with the flip line.
You have to work to make it happen. Pull your upper body to the tree, send a roll with your right, pull then send a roll with your left. Step up while pulling your weight with your arms. Get this down pat, then you can crew gum and walk at the same time. The amount of slack on both hips depends on how big you want or need the rolls
 
@rico - man, if you were doing that off the cuff, you are a teacher, man. That is such an elegantly-distilled couple of knowledge nuggets, that I'd guess you'd given that exact speech/sermon thousands of times.

Does 'straight leg' = knees locked? Or is it slightly pulled back from locked out?
 
Thanks Farkwad..I appreciate the kind words..it was off the cuff and the teaching part was pretty easy.. The hard part was the intense focus it took to not swear on every other word..Worst potty mouth ever....

I myself lock out and totally relax into it... If your in a leaner and having a hard time getting stable and comfy you can lock out one side (usually down hill side) and bend your other knee. This will help create a bit of a triangle which is always a good thing. Hope that makes sense..
 
I avoid locking out my knees when negative rigging and the piece whacks the trunk, otherwise Rico's spot on.

Having knees locked when absorbing an impact's a sure fired way to blow out an ACL ligament, and trust me, you don't want that.

Jemco
 

New threads New posts

Kask Stihl NORTHEASTERN Arborists Wesspur TreeStuff.com Teufelberger Westminster X-Rigging Teufelberger
Back
Top Bottom