hi people im kinda nervous about buying this 97 brush bandit. I need to talk to the guy for an explanation for why the gauges are missing. No hour meters no rpms no oil pressure. he said the hours are like 2000. i forget now if he said it was rebuilt. what do you think.. any opinions would be helpful
250 xp with guages missing
- Thread starter mick
- Start date
southsoundtree
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Olympia, WA
would he really know the hours?
- Location
- Fayetteville AR
How familliar are you with chippers? Do you know how one like this should work,sound, start ect? We don't have bandits much around here So I don't know where any trouble spots might be. But in general
Engine Should start up within a couple cranks, no white smoke ect. Let it get to normal temp and look at the blow by to see how much smoke, a little (Bearly visable) is ok but if is rather thick smoke or if there is lots (some is normal) of oil around the end of the tube it's worn pretty bad. Pulling the dipstick will do same thing if you dont know where the blowby is. Then general leaks,over heating ect.
Engage clutch and listen for abnormal noises and worn bearings listen also with engine off and cutter spinning down. With 2000? hrs it may be getting close +/- for a clutch? hard to tell.
Check all greased areas try to tell how often it was greased thrown grease ect. Check the feed roller(s) for play. hyraulic system should work well no whining noise from pump.
If i were you I'd call the bandit shop where you are at and talk to one of the mechanics and ask him any pointers on what to look for for this model.
Can't think of anything else right off hand. Good luck. $7000 like this may be a little much but could be a ok depending on how well it's been maintained but without guages it is suspect.. Is he the original owner? 2000 hrs is a little much but it still has some life. I bought a 97vermeer 1250 turbo last year for $6750 with 1190 hrs. but had to spend $500 on fuel to get it.
Good luck!
Engine Should start up within a couple cranks, no white smoke ect. Let it get to normal temp and look at the blow by to see how much smoke, a little (Bearly visable) is ok but if is rather thick smoke or if there is lots (some is normal) of oil around the end of the tube it's worn pretty bad. Pulling the dipstick will do same thing if you dont know where the blowby is. Then general leaks,over heating ect.
Engage clutch and listen for abnormal noises and worn bearings listen also with engine off and cutter spinning down. With 2000? hrs it may be getting close +/- for a clutch? hard to tell.
Check all greased areas try to tell how often it was greased thrown grease ect. Check the feed roller(s) for play. hyraulic system should work well no whining noise from pump.
If i were you I'd call the bandit shop where you are at and talk to one of the mechanics and ask him any pointers on what to look for for this model.
Can't think of anything else right off hand. Good luck. $7000 like this may be a little much but could be a ok depending on how well it's been maintained but without guages it is suspect.. Is he the original owner? 2000 hrs is a little much but it still has some life. I bought a 97vermeer 1250 turbo last year for $6750 with 1190 hrs. but had to spend $500 on fuel to get it.
Good luck!
Is it to good a deal to refuse?
thanks for that explaination diesel cutter. Im familiar with chippers but only from running them when i worked for Davey and other tree services.
Im now looking at a vermeer bc1230a. 1200 or so hours seems nice. seems a little unrealistic that a dealer would let this year 2000 go for uner 6 or 7 grand dont you think??????
i may offer the xp 250 a lowball and consider if he wants to take it
Im now looking at a vermeer bc1230a. 1200 or so hours seems nice. seems a little unrealistic that a dealer would let this year 2000 go for uner 6 or 7 grand dont you think??????
i may offer the xp 250 a lowball and consider if he wants to take it
- Location
- Fayetteville AR
That does seem a little unusual on the price at a dealer. Is it a "tree" dealer or something else?
On those 1250/1230's the feed roller slides are the biggest thing to look at. If not enough grease they will wear alot in one area for smaller branches an them have trouble opening up for bigger pieces. There is a vtrack which they slide in and if there is too much play the roller will sideways rather than sliding. If it's the copper bushings on either side of the roller you can fix that but if it's the track itself stay away.
Those perkins are good motors their only downfall is they WILL NOT tolerate ether/starting fluid. They will melt a piston easier than pretty much any diesel. The blow by test earlierwill tell that. They don't need it. they start EASY. Mine will start within 2-3 revs at O degrees even if its been sitting a week of more!
The 98 and later have the "new" style perkins which is nothing wrong with it. It's when perkins and cat were starting to merge.But it's a parent bore type which is WAY more expensive to rebuild if possible. It's painted black or grey. A little note perkins won't accept a core if anything has been taken off and put back on( head for instace). Just a little company querk. And these new ones a factory swap is about the best option if you blow a motor.
The older motors were yellow and were sleeve type they have the same drawbacks but rebuilding them locally is simple for any heavy equipment or truck mechanic. To rebuild one of those is probably a 1/3rd the cost of course depending on what is done. Probably won't need that info but thought I'd throw it out there.
On those 1250/1230's the feed roller slides are the biggest thing to look at. If not enough grease they will wear alot in one area for smaller branches an them have trouble opening up for bigger pieces. There is a vtrack which they slide in and if there is too much play the roller will sideways rather than sliding. If it's the copper bushings on either side of the roller you can fix that but if it's the track itself stay away.
Those perkins are good motors their only downfall is they WILL NOT tolerate ether/starting fluid. They will melt a piston easier than pretty much any diesel. The blow by test earlierwill tell that. They don't need it. they start EASY. Mine will start within 2-3 revs at O degrees even if its been sitting a week of more!
The 98 and later have the "new" style perkins which is nothing wrong with it. It's when perkins and cat were starting to merge.But it's a parent bore type which is WAY more expensive to rebuild if possible. It's painted black or grey. A little note perkins won't accept a core if anything has been taken off and put back on( head for instace). Just a little company querk. And these new ones a factory swap is about the best option if you blow a motor.
The older motors were yellow and were sleeve type they have the same drawbacks but rebuilding them locally is simple for any heavy equipment or truck mechanic. To rebuild one of those is probably a 1/3rd the cost of course depending on what is done. Probably won't need that info but thought I'd throw it out there.
thanks alot for your knowledge. Its a heavy equipment dealer they got 3 of these 1230a's all with about 1200 hours give or take a few from a city with a urban forestry program or something..anyways they won them at an auction and are asking 6900 but sounds like he will take 6 and i get to pick from the 3. he even said he'd throw in new blades...what a dealer..i duno sounds good..hope not to good to be true.
so about the v track will i be able to slide the rollers by hand or tool of some sort to check this..or how would you recomend
so about the v track will i be able to slide the rollers by hand or tool of some sort to check this..or how would you recomend
- Location
- Fayetteville AR
That sounds not too bad. mine is a ex city unit. It could have been been greased a little more but not bad. Had to replace those bushings. Since he isn't say a vermeer dealer I would'nt be too afraid of this. Does he sell chippers on a regular basis or is this an exception. Especially if he'd take 6000 it sounds like it may be your ticket?
Really the best way to test the vtrack is to try to feed a big log in it say 10-11". There is a big spring that holds the feed roller closed, pull that off and you can slide them open by hand. Grab the hydraulic motor and try to tilt it at various spots on the track shouldn't be any more than 1/2" at max that would be bad wore1/4" is ok. Only left feed wheel moves. Also look at where they spin on the bottom they should have space between the roller and the belly pan.
It's hard to see exactly how much the track is wore. The track is ajustable but if the one side is wore and not the other it won't adjust right.. the bushings are designed to go first. Look to see where the slop is is it between the track and the v or the v bearing and the bushings they look like big washers.
Really the best way to test the vtrack is to try to feed a big log in it say 10-11". There is a big spring that holds the feed roller closed, pull that off and you can slide them open by hand. Grab the hydraulic motor and try to tilt it at various spots on the track shouldn't be any more than 1/2" at max that would be bad wore1/4" is ok. Only left feed wheel moves. Also look at where they spin on the bottom they should have space between the roller and the belly pan.
It's hard to see exactly how much the track is wore. The track is ajustable but if the one side is wore and not the other it won't adjust right.. the bushings are designed to go first. Look to see where the slop is is it between the track and the v or the v bearing and the bushings they look like big washers.
Hey Mick,
I will chime in on this one.
I've owned three 250xp's. I can tell you that they will chip the pants off of a 1230.
The 250 machine is an awesome chipper.
A1997 model is not to have the live hydraulics. That's a little bit of a pain.
Does it have the hydraulic feed will lift?
Anyway, I just bought one about two months ago. I got a screening deal on it. It was a 1998 with a Cummings 110 hp diesel.
I only paid $4500 for it (including all the gauges).
It only had 1500 hrs on it because the guy about it from was a real part timer.
The thing chips awesome.
Anyway, I am not sure if you're able to start the motor of the 250 to hear it run, because of the Murphy switch on the oil pressure, but I would highly recommend getting the 250 over the 1230.
It's just flat out a better machine.
However, it's only worth around $5,000 in its current condition. (In my opinion).
If the motor runs right, 5000 bucks would be a pretty good deal (again my opinion) for a running 250.
I will chime in on this one.
I've owned three 250xp's. I can tell you that they will chip the pants off of a 1230.
The 250 machine is an awesome chipper.
A1997 model is not to have the live hydraulics. That's a little bit of a pain.
Does it have the hydraulic feed will lift?
Anyway, I just bought one about two months ago. I got a screening deal on it. It was a 1998 with a Cummings 110 hp diesel.
I only paid $4500 for it (including all the gauges).
It only had 1500 hrs on it because the guy about it from was a real part timer.
The thing chips awesome.
Anyway, I am not sure if you're able to start the motor of the 250 to hear it run, because of the Murphy switch on the oil pressure, but I would highly recommend getting the 250 over the 1230.
It's just flat out a better machine.
However, it's only worth around $5,000 in its current condition. (In my opinion).
If the motor runs right, 5000 bucks would be a pretty good deal (again my opinion) for a running 250.
- Location
- tulsa oklahoma
Danielson is right. I feel that a 250xp, especially the newer ones are absolutely the BEST 12" chippers on the market. They eat 10" logs for breakfast. And if it tells u anything both of my 18" machines are morbarks, but if I were 2 have a 12" machine it would definitely be a 250xp.
D.W.H
D.W.H
thanks for your input. i can't say which is better but it looks like i may get a 1230a for around half the price they usually go for. the 250 guy is stuck at 6800 and its got 2000 hours on it. i will keep shopping but it seems like the vermeer is pretty solid
- Location
- Pennsylvania
[ QUOTE ]
Anyway, I am not sure if you're able to start the motor of the 250 to hear it run, because of the Murphy switch on the oil pressure,
[/ QUOTE ]
Murphy switches can be bypassed kinda easily. I'd wonder why he didn't replace the gauges, maybe he took them out before trying to sell it to hid something. A mechanical oil pressure gauge can be had for $25 and hooked up in a half hour. Maybe it's got way more hours than 2000 so he took the meter out to hide that.
Anyway, I am not sure if you're able to start the motor of the 250 to hear it run, because of the Murphy switch on the oil pressure,
[/ QUOTE ]
Murphy switches can be bypassed kinda easily. I'd wonder why he didn't replace the gauges, maybe he took them out before trying to sell it to hid something. A mechanical oil pressure gauge can be had for $25 and hooked up in a half hour. Maybe it's got way more hours than 2000 so he took the meter out to hide that.
well im reconsidering the first chipper which is a 200 plus brush bandit with a new/used straight 6 in it. Im leaning towards it because its clean looking and i can get it for 3500. i dont like that some people have said that a truck engine is different than an industrial one.. but i think that this chipper will serve me well. im quite small time so it should work for me for a long time hopefully. I know some would say dont factor in apperance but this thing looks alot better than the 250 and thats gotta say something about how it was treated and used.
I may go with the vermeer 1230a ..duno yet. just kinda rambling .. anything that anyone has to say.. say it away.. i am patiently waiting for next week when the deal should be going down on one of these
I may go with the vermeer 1230a ..duno yet. just kinda rambling .. anything that anyone has to say.. say it away.. i am patiently waiting for next week when the deal should be going down on one of these
Mick,
I bought my 250 XP for $4500. When I took it into the shop to get the lights repaired two of the other tree guys came in and were totally bugged that they didn't do deal that I got.
I've talked with owners of the 1230s and 1250s. They just don't have the ability that the 250 will.
They told me they would struggle to get tops into the machine. That it would stop on the littlest of things.
$3000 is, $3000 after all. However, over the long haul, you'll really appreciate the pulling power of the 250.
Remember, you're going to be using it day in and day out.
A constant reminder and frustration of having to cut down material to straight pieces just throw it to the chipper would for me be intolerable.
I would rather go below two or three extra days to make the extra two or $3000, and spend the money on the better machine.
However, "2000" hours seems a bit odd. And remember those gauge clusters are super expensive buying them from bandit.
Each one of the gauges will run you a couple hundred dollars. So you might be over $1000 just for the cluster. Keep that in mind.
I have owned 12 chippers over the past 12 years.
The woodchuck chuck and duck- piece of junk, could only chip little three and 4 inch branches, worthless for big material. This machine is really built just for powerline trimming. It's not really good for doing any sort of major removal work.
An eager beaver 290- I bought this machine from pete manke back in 1998 over the phone. It had a gas straight six. This machine was worthless as well. When you would chip a big piece of wood, when the end of the piece got past the rollers, the rollers would slam shut and the chipper would stop. Then it was a total bear to open the rollers back up and pull the peace out. It would take about 45 minutes each time it happened. I really did not like that machine at all.
two bandit 100's- the bandit 100 really chipped better than the 290. Even though there 9 inch machines (actually I think they're 12 inch... but they don't act like it). And it just builds a better machine. It's weird, I don't know the exact physics behind what makes them better, but they're just better.
Three bandit 250xp's- without a doubt, bang for the buck this is the very best chipper that I have ever owned. Yeah, it doesn't eat the big 18 and 20 inch pieces of material like the others, but I didn't pay $40,000 for them either. I bought my first one for 13,000, my second one for 10,000, and I got a screaming deal on the last one for $4500. The nice part about this machine is that my Dodge Durango can tote around. It's super light.
Two bandit 1890's- one of these had weak hydraulic pump so I can't really speak of how well it worked because I don't think I was seeing it at its full performance. However, the other one, a 2004 "hd" model eight material like there was no tomorrow. It only had the four-cylinder 125 hp, but it would suck material in that big gaping hole, and ask for more. I really loved this machine. However I did not love it $17,000 worth of debt compared to $4500 worth of debt. (This chipper was the last one that I owned before the good deal on the 250 XP)
a wc-17- I bought this machine on eBay and never even took delivery on it. I flipped it for the same price, so I can't really speak of its performance.
two morbark hurricane- heavy, well-built, not too many fancy gadgets, and chips like crazy. However, the last model that I had was a 2001 which really lacked down pressure. My 1890 had way more.
Okay, there's the breakdown with my experience of chippers.
Of course this is just a bunch of rambling..... (smile).
I bought my 250 XP for $4500. When I took it into the shop to get the lights repaired two of the other tree guys came in and were totally bugged that they didn't do deal that I got.
I've talked with owners of the 1230s and 1250s. They just don't have the ability that the 250 will.
They told me they would struggle to get tops into the machine. That it would stop on the littlest of things.
$3000 is, $3000 after all. However, over the long haul, you'll really appreciate the pulling power of the 250.
Remember, you're going to be using it day in and day out.
A constant reminder and frustration of having to cut down material to straight pieces just throw it to the chipper would for me be intolerable.
I would rather go below two or three extra days to make the extra two or $3000, and spend the money on the better machine.
However, "2000" hours seems a bit odd. And remember those gauge clusters are super expensive buying them from bandit.
Each one of the gauges will run you a couple hundred dollars. So you might be over $1000 just for the cluster. Keep that in mind.
I have owned 12 chippers over the past 12 years.
The woodchuck chuck and duck- piece of junk, could only chip little three and 4 inch branches, worthless for big material. This machine is really built just for powerline trimming. It's not really good for doing any sort of major removal work.
An eager beaver 290- I bought this machine from pete manke back in 1998 over the phone. It had a gas straight six. This machine was worthless as well. When you would chip a big piece of wood, when the end of the piece got past the rollers, the rollers would slam shut and the chipper would stop. Then it was a total bear to open the rollers back up and pull the peace out. It would take about 45 minutes each time it happened. I really did not like that machine at all.
two bandit 100's- the bandit 100 really chipped better than the 290. Even though there 9 inch machines (actually I think they're 12 inch... but they don't act like it). And it just builds a better machine. It's weird, I don't know the exact physics behind what makes them better, but they're just better.
Three bandit 250xp's- without a doubt, bang for the buck this is the very best chipper that I have ever owned. Yeah, it doesn't eat the big 18 and 20 inch pieces of material like the others, but I didn't pay $40,000 for them either. I bought my first one for 13,000, my second one for 10,000, and I got a screaming deal on the last one for $4500. The nice part about this machine is that my Dodge Durango can tote around. It's super light.
Two bandit 1890's- one of these had weak hydraulic pump so I can't really speak of how well it worked because I don't think I was seeing it at its full performance. However, the other one, a 2004 "hd" model eight material like there was no tomorrow. It only had the four-cylinder 125 hp, but it would suck material in that big gaping hole, and ask for more. I really loved this machine. However I did not love it $17,000 worth of debt compared to $4500 worth of debt. (This chipper was the last one that I owned before the good deal on the 250 XP)
a wc-17- I bought this machine on eBay and never even took delivery on it. I flipped it for the same price, so I can't really speak of its performance.
two morbark hurricane- heavy, well-built, not too many fancy gadgets, and chips like crazy. However, the last model that I had was a 2001 which really lacked down pressure. My 1890 had way more.
Okay, there's the breakdown with my experience of chippers.
Of course this is just a bunch of rambling..... (smile).
- Location
- Holland, Ohio
I have a 1992 250 with the cummins diesel. The machine has 5200 hours on it with the original engine and a new factory paint job. I think the disk bearings were replaced before I bought it but other than that it is original. It doesn't have the auto feed option, but if you manually operate the feed wheels, it will eat ten inch dead ash wood and ask for more. I will buy another 250 if I can ever wear this one out.
- Location
- tulsa oklahoma
DONT GET THE 200PLUS WITH THE GAS ENGINE IN IT!!!!!! U will spend a shitload more on fuel than you will with the diesel and gas engines dont have the power/torque of a diesel engine. Also the longevity or life of the engine is much less. I believe it is something u will truly regret.
Mick here is the number of one of my mine suppliers of equipment out of texas. his name is James Poston and he and his father own Poston Equipment. They are authorized Bandit, Dingo Dealer. They sell used Bandit chippers as well. I just spoke with him and he has several used 250's that are slick as a whistle and would like to email u some photos and there specs if u like. They are straight shooters and really nice guys. His # is 1-469-233-1289.
just please dont get the one with the gas engine.
D.W.H
Mick here is the number of one of my mine suppliers of equipment out of texas. his name is James Poston and he and his father own Poston Equipment. They are authorized Bandit, Dingo Dealer. They sell used Bandit chippers as well. I just spoke with him and he has several used 250's that are slick as a whistle and would like to email u some photos and there specs if u like. They are straight shooters and really nice guys. His # is 1-469-233-1289.
just please dont get the one with the gas engine.
D.W.H
thank you thank you thank you... lots of input and knowledge. i would love a 250 if i can find one for a good deal id take it.
anyways what ever chipper i decide to buy im loading my dump up with all kinds of branches and logs and really putting what ever machine to the test.
the complaints about the 1230's and 1250 may have something to do with that v track we were talkin about the other day.
or did you mean just wouldn't take the tops because it just didn't have the umph to suck the Y's and spread out branches?
thanks to all who are giving input. i need it
anyways what ever chipper i decide to buy im loading my dump up with all kinds of branches and logs and really putting what ever machine to the test.
the complaints about the 1230's and 1250 may have something to do with that v track we were talkin about the other day.
or did you mean just wouldn't take the tops because it just didn't have the umph to suck the Y's and spread out branches?
thanks to all who are giving input. i need it
- Location
- Florida
I have a 1992 250xp with the 5.9 turbo diesel. it has 1985 hrs on it and runs great. this is the second bandit I have owned the first one being the 200 with 4cyl ford gas.
I have found that the more power you have the better it is.
check the engine as a separate entity. Jeremy gave us great advise on that the other day.
a compression check is always a great idea.
check for crack in the welds on the frame. broken or missing bolts from vibration.
I would not want to run it for long without gauges though.
I have found that the more power you have the better it is.
check the engine as a separate entity. Jeremy gave us great advise on that the other day.
a compression check is always a great idea.
check for crack in the welds on the frame. broken or missing bolts from vibration.
I would not want to run it for long without gauges though.
Lumberjack
Branched out member
I have a Bandit with a 300 gas. It has served me very well.
I'd get the 200+, run the hell out of it, and upgrade later. Assuming you don't toast the engine (they are quite robust) it will still be worth $3k or more in 5 years.
The industrial engine uses many of the same parts as the truck engine, they aren't that special. You can get nearly anything you need for it from the auto parts house.
119hp, 220ft/lb of torque, about the same as an 80hp Cummins.
I'd get the 200+, run the hell out of it, and upgrade later. Assuming you don't toast the engine (they are quite robust) it will still be worth $3k or more in 5 years.
The industrial engine uses many of the same parts as the truck engine, they aren't that special. You can get nearly anything you need for it from the auto parts house.
119hp, 220ft/lb of torque, about the same as an 80hp Cummins.
