How to best clean air-filters? Can you use brake-fluid? Other basic maintenance Q's :)

eyehearttrees

eyehearttrees

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Tampa-Area
So on a new bigger saw I got there was this 'baffle' inside the air filter, total 'choke' on airflow, so it was removed (think the flow-bench data on it is on this very site!), anyways I subsequently found from anecdotes & experience that removal of this lil piece allows the carb to spit-back into the filter, making it wetted and thus quickly dirty on its rear-center area, and - since mine was removed, that's just where I'm at, an oily dirty filter (paper/linen type filter, echo cs590)

Got me to thinking that NONE of my normal air filter cleaning methods would actually fully wipe out oil, hell they'd probably barely get 50% if the filter were submerged in oil (and an oily inside-coating is starting to seem like a norm for 2 stroke air filters, due to carb spitback) so am here hoping for 'the tricks' you guys use!! My crappy/current approach is just:
- dry-clean with brush,
- blast-outwards with brake-clean,
- soak in soapy water, occasionally brushing
- thorough rinse&dry, then reinstall.... Have never bought a new air filter unless one was physically destroyed, starting to think proactive-replacement isn't just "good for the powerhead" but good for performance, fuel-economy etc.

Thanks for any advice on air filters, my current thought/hope is that foaming engine-degreaser - and a brush - will suffice for a fully-cleaned, close-to-new filter (anyone who can talk about microns//filters, please talk away I am dying to learn more IE is the norm closer to 100 or 50 micron, what's considered 'optimal' micron-level etc etc)

[PS: any other maintenance-tips that you think may be commonly-missed, I would love to hear!! I'll add spark plugs, I am horrible at staying on-top of keeping my plugs clean, and I tend to replace them WAYYYY too infrequently, often just when they're totally spent....very dumb! Also cleaning-out and re-greasing my clutches, especially after working 'wetter' conditions whether in-rain or cutting palm trees!]
 
Kinda interesting thing I've been doing, would like to know thoughts because "it seems to have been working for me"... On my ~1.5yr old 355t, one of my most-used saws, the compression is now insane (which, I hope, is simply 'good news' compression from proper use, I did not go in and alter compression by modification, simply used the saw hard for 1.5yrs), this saw ONLY saw eth-free fuel with HP Ultra, its air-filter may get clogged but it never ate fines (custom airbox, think Frog Skinz taken to an extreme), will actually be doing an overhaul on it today so will peek through exhaust port to see P&C condition but expecting it to be nice I mean the compression resistance on starter-rope is nearly 2X as high as my 25cc clonesaw :P

Would love to hear what you guys know Re compression relative to the time-spent-used of a powersaw, I had initially assumed that "compression buildup due to usage" was a phenomena restricted to new chainsaws, a phenomena mostly-overcome after 5 or 20 tanks of usage, and presumed it was just 'diminishing returns'(diminishing compression-increases) after that point....but my 355t's pull makes me think maybe it does just keep going-up (carbon buildup on piston altering squish? If so....where can I get carbon spray-paint for my new 590 piston ;P )
 
evo said:
The baffles is exactly for carb spit back. Replace with oem
Click to expand...
I only removed it after seeing the flow-bench #'s, it is quite restrictive, I do have OEM in fact it just went to the 590-build-pile like 10min ago lol am going to modify it somehow, haven't looked at it enough to know how yet but know you don't need that much restriction (was well over 10% IIRC on this saw) for a spitback plate!

Thanks for that, am gonna update that "590 flow tests" thread to reflect this, anyone reading that thread is gonna go and remove it if they don't understand Re spitback and I'll say I didn't catch it at 3yrs of saws being part of my daily life! Spitback of carb - and suck-in of muffler - are very new concepts to me, these are funky lil 'pumps' these 2-strokes!

(BTW hope all's well in your world bro, good to see a post by you, I need to come onto this forum more often have been OCD with porting these past months :P )
 
Gently wash with soap and water. Rinse.
Or
Gentle air pressure to "back-blow" with a compressed air. Don't stretch the fibers.


Saw dust filters saw dust.
Perfectly clean is unnecessary, probably less desirable... if you wash/ blow it too hard to get it that clean, you may have reduced the fiber filtration.

We used to wash filters nightly, when we weren't getting out the air compressor (done weekly), doing lots of forestry cutting in 10 hour shifts.



If you're needing to change plugs before they are work-worn, maybe to rich on the carb settings?
A little, fine sand paper will clean plugs.
 
southsoundtree said:
Gently wash with soap and water. Rinse.
Or
Gentle air pressure to "back-blow" with a compressed air. Don't stretch the fibers.


Saw dust filters saw dust.
Perfectly clean is unnecessary, probably less desirable... if you wash/ blow it too hard to get it that clean, you may have reduced the fiber filtration.

We used to wash filters nightly, when we weren't getting out the air compressor (done weekly), doing lots of forestry cutting in 10 hour shifts.



If you're needing to change plugs before they are work-worn, maybe to rich on the carb settings?
A little, fine sand paper will clean plugs.
Click to expand...
Re plugs I must have been un-clear...I think I do run a lil rich in many instances but it's not enough to be problematic and I've actually only replaced a failed spark plug once (a 2.5yr old chinese clonesaw, its OEM plug finally rattled itself into 2 pieces, and I don't mean the type you just 'screw back together' it was literally a broken plug, thankfully it was like $3 to replace think standard rj7 or rj6)

Compressors....so close to getting one, the blow-ability is my chief need because literally every other tool one would use compressors for, I've already got electric equivalents (even a whole new, well-rounded porting setup w/ 1/8 and 1/4 collet machines) But know I'll eventually find tools I want for it, and - JUST for the "blowing air to clean my saws" angle - it's already worth a basic/entry level (is there a minimum "Don't buy below this CFM or psi"?)

Unsure what you meant by 'Saw dust filters saw dust' but disagree that "perfectly clean could be undesirable" I mean perfectly-clean would be OEM-quality restoration, no?

Re stretching/caring-for the fibers while cleaning...I find I'm pretty focused on edges so I don't rip anything, but otherwise try brushing about as hard as I can, I honestly think my mind's reasoning "less material means more air" and, so long as it's not looking bad to my eyes, I consider it OK (am sure it's NOT and that my 355t filter, having been roughly brushed like 2 dozen times, surely needs replacing :P )

Seems 60 and 80 micron are most-common....am planning to use generic foam inside my airbox on my 590 and 355t (which I expect will get even better gains from this), would love if people have sources for this filter-foam (I know of Max Flow only, and their two 'foam only' options are far pricier than foam should be :P )
 
Saw dust filters saw dust.

Saw dust on your filter reduces what air and particles can get to/ through your filter.




Idk...oem condition is expected to go away immediately upon use, and be used hard.






Sharp chains and dressed rakers help produce bigger chips than knock off and/or blow off by breath better.
 
Mike Islander said:
I left a foam filter soaking in Purple for a couple of days. Turned into a dollop of paste. Short stay won't dissolve it, but it definitely got a start on it.
Click to expand...
Definitely gotta watch the concentration. I buy the concentrate and mix it. I usually mix it about 1:10 or less and don't soak for long periods. Never had it destroy anything thankfully.
 
Awesome replies guys thank you!!

Anyone using foam filters, the type that require oil IE you soak-then-wring the filter before installation? This is the type used on most Max Flow filters, or Red Beard or Stoekel Stacks filters, they all need the soak-&-squeeze in oil like a lawnmower filter...can't help wondering whether this style is superior or inferior (all the aftermarket options for my saw are this type)
 
Mike Islander said:
We dirt bike riders use mineral spirits followed by warm water and Dawn. Rinse well and squeeze dry with towel. Fan overnight to completely dry.
Click to expand...
Love it thanks!! Is this on all types of filters? If unsure, I'd love to at least know whether this is for "dry" filter media, or "oiled filter media"? The latter is the type you literally soak, then squeeze-out, with oil before ever using (see MaxFlo filters for the ms660)

I'm using 'regular', non-oiled filters but on the fence about swapping-over, I'd love hearing anyone's thoughts who's made this swap, I'm wary because I'm in FL it is so dusty I just fear plugging them up far too-quickly...I know I gotta buy one & see but figured it'd be great hearing from people who've made the swap, I got a "Hyway high-flow" filter for one of my "pair of big saws" but didn't want to buy a 2nd for the other one, wanted to try an oiled filter but just haven't gone-ahead w/ it yet!!
 
Oh and I'd LOVE thoughts on "carb spitback plates"!

I heard "tinman" on youtube talk about a saw "sometimes" spitting-back through the carb....I thought ALL units do this (hence the inclusion of spitback plates on almost every build...)

But recently I got the 1st-of-2 of these kit/clone 660's and the builder had 0 spitback prevention in-place....shortly thereafter I bought the prebuilt "blue thunder" unit, and it had the most restrictive spitback plating I'd ever seen (but a nicer air-filter than usual aftermarkets, at least to the eye IMO...I dunno here, from left to right, are: 'normal' aftermarket, Blue's filter, Blue's spitback plate, Hyway High Flow:

20211118_111640_HDR.jpg
[flashlight 'under' the spitback-plate to show just how restrictive it is, I want something there but not that restrictive, am thinking of using it as a 'frame' though, remove most of its top & sides and "seat" a wad of filter-media there to act as a sponge of sorts!]
[[yes I know the clutch cover in background is stupid-overpacked, saw is apart because I smoked the clutch after overpacking clutch-cover with hard-packed palm fibers, thought it was clear when it wasn't and went and did a lush gooey Ficus and it fried it, clutch-spring broke and whole area overheated, thankfully so far everything looks OK the drum doesn't have any distortion thankfully!]]
 
Be careful using degreaser on chainsaw air filters.

Most are flocked , meaning the fibers are oil impregnated to help dust “stick” to them. Degreaser will remove the flocking and reduce effectiveness.

There are exceptions, but many are flocked filters from the start

You can pun away as you choose on my flocking information.

Tony
 
How about a rather off the wall suggestion on filters - The engineers at the companies that design these saws also design filters. Maybe they know something about what they are doing, and maybe using OEM filters and following the care instructions in the Owner’s Manual that comes with the saws would be a good idea.
 
Reach said:
How about a rather off the wall suggestion on filters - The engineers at the companies that design these saws also design filters. Maybe they know something about what they are doing, and maybe using OEM filters and following the care instructions in the Owner’s Manual that comes with the saws would be a good idea.
Click to expand...
Nahhh, why would anyone do something like that!

Agreed but we all have gone ‘round about cost cutting measures with the OP
 
evo said:
Nahhh, why would anyone do something like that!

Agreed but we all have gone ‘round about cost cutting measures with the OP
Click to expand...
Oh I know that many have, but I feel an occasional desire to pound my head against a wall. This morning must have been one of those times.
 
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