Noob questions

So some climbing line with stopper knots is generally considered acceptable as a rope bridge for my saddle? I have bought the best I can afford but like most can’t go too crazy. So far climbing has just been a hobby, but I’d like to get on a crew as a groundie and see where things go.
 
So some climbing line with stopper knots is generally considered acceptable as a rope bridge for my saddle? I have bought the best I can afford but like most can’t go too crazy. So far climbing has just been a hobby, but I’d like to get on a crew as a groundie and see where things go.
Technically, I'd say contact Petzl and ask them. I promise you that they will say hell no, you cannot use stopper knots. In the event there was a failure they would consider the harness modified, and not cover shit.
In reality, I have never seen this saddle in person. However, the stock bridge functions exactly the same as a rope bridge with stopper knots. They just use a different method to stop the rope than a knot. I'd put any member of my family (minus the 2 year old, as she'd slip through) up 1000' hanging from a helicopter in that saddle with stopper knots for a bridge.
 
Thank you all so much! You guys rock :)
Does anyone have insight about why no one discusses using axes for limbing when (in my experience which is only minor logging although chainsaws were available for limbing) the axe is often faster? I hope that question makes sense
 
Thank you all so much! You guys rock :)
Does anyone have insight about why no one discusses using axes for limbing when (in my experience which is only minor logging although chainsaws were available for limbing) the axe is often faster? I hope that question makes sense
I’ve been know to use a axe for limbing. But often I limb with a saw on the way out to the top, then buck the log on the way back to the stump, one tool for both tasks.. tip of the saw can reach places that an axe finds difficult. However all the more power to ya, if this is the most effective and efficient for your body. Do what works! Axes have been used for 1000’s of years
 
I just hadn’t seen it discussed and wasn’t sure if there was something I was missing or what haha. But seriously you guys are awesome and I’m grateful to be able to call upon your wisdom
 
Axes have their place. I use one to knock dirt and mud off before cutting, trying to keep my chains sharp. Also for driving wedges with the hammer side. Rarely for splitting, I much prefer a 6 or 8lb maul, or even better a real machine.
I’ve never used one for limbing, I just always use a saw.
 
I 100% agree that splitting is best reserved for a maul which I also have. Maybe I need to spend some more time behind a chainsaw. I’m quite comfortable with my 12 and 16” saws but still always grab my a axes and pickeroon for limbing trees. I can’t thank you all enough for all of the advice you’ve offered me. I will do my best to absorb it and try to add these notes to my mental toolbox. Thank you again :)
 
I also paused at the name.


Sometimes I add a second ring so that when I'm walking around it is deafening. I pretend that I will be clipping into it, but it never happens.
 
How much giggling did you do while thinking up the screen name lord big di... I mean Lord baby arm?
it’s actually a reference to my left arm that stopped growing after a trampoline accident when I was 11 lmao. My friends affectionately told me I had a baby arm and it stuck haha even my motorcycle has the personalized plate bbarm. Oh uhh I mean it’s like a dang beef bus. Definitely not about my diminutive arm ;):LOL::risas2:
 
Regarding the ax: You removing trees or pruning trees? If pruning trees to leave, an ax doesn't make a clean cut at the branch collar as well as a saw. Thought some trimmers do a miserable job with a saw...

I always carry a handsaw. ANSI Z133 safety standard (buy that and review it if you haven't) says a handsaw must always be "available". that could be ready for a groundie to send up. I think it is a better idea to always have it. Like you said with an ax, I can have many branches off before a chainsaw is started. What handsaw is the next logical question. Silky Sugoi is the logical answer.
 
While we are spending your money, instead of a ring on the bridge, you could use a swivel...or a pulley...with a swivel.
Rock Exotica Orbitor is an example of a swivel and their Hydra is a pulley with a swivel that would work.
 
Regarding the ax: You removing trees or pruning trees? If pruning trees to leave, an ax doesn't make a clean cut at the branch collar as well as a saw. Thought some trimmers do a miserable job with a saw...

I always carry a handsaw. ANSI Z133 safety standard (buy that and review it if you haven't) says a handsaw must always be "available". that could be ready for a groundie to send up. I think it is a better idea to always have it. Like you said with an ax, I can have many branches off before a chainsaw is started. What handsaw is the next logical question. Silky Sugoi is the logical answer.
The axe question was regarding ground work for larger limbs with smaller limbs that have been dropped but need processed further before being chipped or otherwise removed from the drop zone. I do love a good handsaw, and have been eyeballing the silky zubat (I wouldn’t say no to a katana boy on the ground if someone donated it however :ROFLMAO:). What do you like about the sugoi over the zubat? As much as I love my axes, there’s a time and place for every tool and the chance to slightly miss and scar a tree and open it to infection is too great on a prune to justify using them (plus frankly my axes have razor edges and maintain them very well during use; I’d prefer to keep them away from my life support in a tree haha). Of course this is all theoretical at this point. My hope is to be able to join a tree care crew, but as of now it’s just a dream that I’m working towards.
 
I've got both Zubat and Sugoi. The Sugoi is more aggressive...I almost never use the Zubat.

If I am cutting smaller branches I prefer the Tsurugi with medium teeth.

Watch Amazon - they are under $50 on occasion. I've been skeptical that they'd be fake, but so far so good.
 
I've got both Zubat and Sugoi. The Sugoi is more aggressive...I almost never use the Zubat.

If I am cutting smaller branches I prefer the Tsurugi with medium teeth.

Watch Amazon - they are under $50 on occasion. I've been skeptical that they'd be fake, but so far so good.
The sugoi is not more aggressive than the new zubat blade.
I think they were calling it a zubat arborist... it's been a few months.
 
Main thing about a ring is it gives you the opportunity to clip a second tie-in to the same ring but still have the same balance point on the bridge. Of course rings are the entry drug to bridge swivels, and oh don't forget double bridges ;-) My current setup is a swivel on one bridge and a ring on the other, you can have it both ways.

But... yes a nice DMM swivel for example is expensive, and the bridge will eventually wear a groove in it, even you flip it regularly upside down like a chain saw bar. It's all about what you find works best for your evolving climbing style, gear wear (as Evo mentioned) is the lesser issue, gear wears and you just want to inspect regularly to stay on top of it.

You can spike your bridge with a carabiner (biner through a slip knot) on the stitched end side of your bridge to find a bridge length that works better for you with your current long bridge. That will help you decide what "permanent" length to go with. In regard to Jonny's comment "think a double over hand stopper knot will work on that Petzl bridge D?". It's worked great on all the other rope bridge harnesses for years, no reason why not. Just set it well and after one work session you won't be able to untie it anyway ;-) Keep the sewn stopper already on the bridge cord and you have a guarantee to never slip core or cover through the double overhand.
-AJ
 
Main thing about a ring is it gives you the opportunity to clip a second tie-in to the same ring but still have the same balance point on the bridge. Of course rings are the entry drug to bridge swivels, and oh don't forget double bridges ;-) My current setup is a swivel on one bridge and a ring on the other, you can have it both ways.

But... yes a nice DMM swivel for example is expensive, and the bridge will eventually wear a groove in it, even you flip it regularly upside down like a chain saw bar. It's all about what you find works best for your evolving climbing style, gear wear (as Evo mentioned) is the lesser issue, gear wears and you just want to inspect regularly to stay on top of it.

You can spike your bridge with a carabiner (biner through a slip knot) on the stitched end side of your bridge to find a bridge length that works better for you with your current long bridge. That will help you decide what "permanent" length to go with. In regard to Jonny's comment "think a double over hand stopper knot will work on that Petzl bridge D?". It's worked great on all the other rope bridge harnesses for years, no reason why not. Just set it well and after one work session you won't be able to untie it anyway ;-) Keep the sewn stopper already on the bridge cord and you have a guarantee to never slip core or cover through the double overhand.
-AJ
I was pondering about a double bridge for the sake of easily trying different lengths haha but I see a lot of other benefits to them as well. I just don’t want to go too crazy until I start climbing for work and can have a better understanding of what I actually want to accomplish certain things. I’ve been happy with my set up for climbing recreationally though I can see a bunch of things that I’d like to improve.

When you say to spike the bridge, are you referring to the marlin spike hitch? Thank you for your time :)
 

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