West Coast Saw Bark Box?

LordFarkwad

Branched out member
Location
Chatham Co.
For the sake of power and the longevity of my saws (661, 362), should I get a couple of these? I was reading (in the marketing materials, so...) that the saws will run cooler and with more power. Sounds like winning all around. Has anyone tried one of these out?

 
Just playing devils advocate here. With the risk of wildfire so high in western states and elsewhere, does removal of the factory spark arrestor/muffler and installation of an aftermarket muffler to gain a perceived amount of power increase/tool longevity justify the risks? If you're working in those areas, you might want to call your insurance agent first to see how your underwriting company feels about you operating modified saws commercially.

I remember an instructor at a course one day who worked for one of the big box forestry/utility companies saying that they had determined that their largest liability risk was that of starting a forest fire, and that risk became a focus of mitigation protocols.
 
I'm guilty of not giving the proper maintenance to my chainsaws and they been running for long time ( many years) with the same power I think and I really work them hard,worst scenario was having to buy new cylinder on my 460 and 200t because they spit the spark plug after $200 repair each, they were running like new again. That muffler looks cool though.
 
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Mufflers on chainsaws are mainly for spark and noise control.
As has been said “muffler modding ain’t rocket surgery “

Open it up to breathe better.After that.....no power gain.
Get Stainless or inconel screen from McMaster Carr with the right sized holes.
Kool looking. But saying about all the testing they have done smells of Snake Oil.
Everything they say their product does except corrosion resistance is true of a simple muffler mod. With a a simple retune.
 
Yes I saw that. It's still not original equipment though, so you may want to take time to talk to your insurance underwriter to see if it affects your coverage.

Good deal, and makes sense. My sole interest in this was 1) I hate drilling/grinding on things not broken, and 2) potential for longevity gains (not so much the power increase, but if that's a throw-in, then...winning).
 
I think that if you work in anyplace prone to wildfires, you have to give consideration that if there's ever a remote question that a fire started at or near your job site, you can bet that all your equipment will be looked over with a fine toothed comb, and any non OEM modifications will be the subject of a lot of attention.
 
I think that if you work in anyplace prone to wildfires, you have to give consideration that if there's ever a remote question that a fire started at or near your job site, you can bet that all your equipment will be looked over with a fine toothed comb, and any non OEM modifications will be the subject of a lot of attention.

We set fires here intentionally :LOL: except in the western part of the state.
 
I think what a lot of people lose sight of when they think of trying to modify their equipment so that it will run faster and jump higher, is that the factory OEM tool has manufacturers insurance on it, and is considered "standard-for-the-industry". Once you start tinkering with it, the manufacturer won't stand behind you, and you've presented to the world that you are now an expert in saw mufllers and spark arrest technology. I'd hate to ever have to try to defend that action in the case of a fire, or anything else involving a saw. If your chain breaks and zings across the job site and hurts someone....the fact that your saw isn't standard will most assuredly be called into question.
 

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