Stein Hauler kit?

Probably depends on what your intentions are. I built mine with sailing hardware and 8mm cord. I haven't broke anything yet but I only use it pretensioning and lifting loads under 500lbs.
 
I will try to take one and post it. I know I used Harken Classic Blocks. If you Google "Harken Fiddle Blocks" they have a nice site and lots of how to info also.
 
monkeylove said:
Pics
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You have a sling directly to the top of your block set, I was always told not to do direct slinging there instead, like a micro pulley, to use a biner, quick link, etc. Just wondering if yours is extra, wide, round, etc or why you do that?

Same goes for the inside becket of your rescue man
 
KevinS said:
You have a sling directly to the top of your block set, I was always told not to do direct slinging ... Same goes for the inside becket of your rescue man
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The best advice when you're "always told" something is to be highly skeptical and use some common sense instead, as there is hardly any "rule" that can not, or even should not, be broken when the circumstances warrant and safety is not compromised.

The current Firefighter One rope rescue curriculum says "never use" a bowline for a lifeline, which is another of those ridiculous "always told" misconceptions, as the bowline (properly tied, set and backed up) is probably the most commonly-used lifeline knot in the on-rope world, and certainly one of the most versatile.

Monkeylove's sling is girthed to a smooth u-shackle, which is not a problem under any circumstances, and such a "soft link" may prevent torsional loading of a carabiner.

The terminal double-overhand noose of my 9mm kernmantle cord to the becket of one of the mini Gemimi pulleys will experience only 1/4 of the load on the system (actually closer to 1/6 load, assuming the four sheaves are 90% efficient), and I am not the least worried about that connection. With that particularly "jigger", I'm more interested in keeping it as compact as possible so that it can almost fully collapse ("chock-a-block") to maximize the potential throw (total hauling distance).

Every time an unnecessary link is added to a system, the number of potential failure modes increases as well. KISS (keep it simple and safe) is still the best principle to apply to almost any system.
 
Makes sense my fiddle block set has a flattened U at the top that I'm sure would cut the sling under load. My fiddle blocks also have a built in tending cleat.
 
RescueMan said:
I prefer twin-sheave pulleys to fiddle blocks, and a prusik to any kind of mechanical locking mechanism.

I have several such 4:1/5:1 "jiggers" made up, from 9mm/Petzl Mini Geminis to 13mm/Fusion Secura doubles.

The latter can be be purchased from Ebay reaved with 100' of 1/2" double-braid for about $12o with shipping.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Twin-sheave...726?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item53e99e567e

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Twin-sheave...120?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f10603110

View attachment 29292
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Hopefully Fusion is a good manufacturer, never heard of them, ordered two of the double sheave pulleys from the Ebay store linked above, half decent price, hopefully they work out and last!
 
RajElectric said:
Hopefully Fusion is a good manufacturer!
Click to expand...

I'm sure they're imported but are well-made and Fusion seems to be a reputable company that meets or exceeds all the usual European and ANSI standards. I've been very impressed, though I haven't used their pulleys long.
 
I just got an email from Fusion. Their Secura pulley has a bushing rather than a bearing (strong, but a bit less efficient), and is made in Taiwan (which probably explains the price point).
 
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