Speedline biners

[Tom Dunlap]

Its time to buy some new biners for speedlining and rigging. I've always used bent gate non=lockers with good results. Sometimes I've thought that I should be having more security. Maybe go to twist gate biners.

What are others using? I've seen the biners with the wire across the bottom to keep the sling from sliding around.

Do you girth hitch your slings to the biner?

This is an interesting biner: http://www.barrabes.com/barrabes/product.asp?pf_id=7773&idvariedad=26129 By using this biner a girth hitch wouldn't be needed. The GH does reduce the effeciency [strength] some but that is rarely a factor. When I get to the point that knot efficency is important, I go up a size with the gear.

 

[joe]

Hi, Tom;

I use the standard equipment sold by the retailers-aluminum non-locking type carabiners. I have not found a need to use bent gate carabiners for speed lining.

I don't use a girth hitch for attaching webbing to carabiners. I clip it to the sling and let it be.

Joe

 

[treeclimber165]

In my limited experience the steel non-lockers with the bar to capture the sling work well.

I've recently come to the conclusion that many groundmen will prefer a bent gate biner, especially if they wear gloves. I have a couple Kong paddle biners (Sherrill item #15990) that everyone finds easy to use. The fancy biner you've shown is also available at Sherrill, item #28749.

I also usually have a couple Positron screwlock biners on my belt in case I have something that might twist out of a non locking biner.
http://www.gx.starvedrockoutfitters.com/cgi-bin/miva?Merchant2/merchant.mv+Screen=PROD&Store_Code=G&Product_Code=2222SGB
It is the smallest locking biner I've been able to find and it's rated at 25KN.

 

[Wiley_P]

Tom, I use Trango wire gate biners, they only cost about 5 bucks each. They are rated at 26Kn closed.Been using them for over 5 years now with no problems, and replacement cost is doable.

 

[Mark Chisholm]

Tom,

Personally, I don't use krabs for speedlining unless it is a unique situation. I'd rather use two lines and two blocks. One block rides on the line and I use the dead-eye sling to tie the peices on with. The other pulley is set as a haul-back. Once you set it up, the ground crew understands how to untie the sling when it comes down and then haul it back to you.

If the situation calls for a ton of speedlining, I would incorporate a rigging paw and clevis like Robert Phillips showed me. Then multiple slings can be used at once.

Also, with a haul-back line the drop zone can be set anywhere along that speedline. Makes it easier to relocate the dropzone.

However, if the situation is a few zips down the line and we're down, then I'd use the straps and krabs like you're talking about. It's pretty easy to tell someone to tighten the rope and then watch the branch slide down the line.

 

[joe]

I have some comments regarding Mark C.'s reply.

I understand the pulley and haulback line concept. I would use this combination if there is a potential for damage to a lawn or obstacle due to speed lining wood or large limbs. For technical rigging, the big tree guys have a higher potential for damage due to working with higher weights. Tight quarters would also dictate a use for a haul back line. I find this combination time consuming.

I prefer to eliminate any knot tieing in my rigging systems. I can see where the Petzl paw would be appropriate for multiple connections. I also own one and from observing slick Bob's saddle I was led to another application for it.

Joe

 

[Mark Chisholm]

I agree with you Joe. I just prefer to have the options given by a haul-back system. Another reason is to be able to hault a section from progressing for any reason, especially if more tension is needed on the speedline near an obstacle.

 

[Roger_Barnett]

That looks like a nice biner, Tom.

But I use whatever the job calls for. Often it is any old biner and sling. If I'm zipping many conifer branches, I don't bother with a haulback set up, unless it is needed to control the landing. So I just clip on one to five slung branches at once directly to the line. I have over 15, so only need them brought back up maybe three times per tree. Often a small branch can be hung directly on the line all by itself. However, if a large branch is being zipped, I'll use the full setup as Mark described. When a branch needs lifting or swinging, if a 3-1 or more z-rig isn't adequate or quick enuf, we use the chipper winch or the Simpson saw winch. Then I will use a locking biner and heavier sling, and maybe the 36000 lb near zero stretch Plasma line!! Often the branch can be balanced by tieing the sling out a ways and the control line closer in.

Also I usually prefer a high tiepoint, so the branch can be tensioned onto the speedline, and not dropped, limiting shock loading. The speedline bight can be managed with a sling the appropriate distance above the work of the moment.

Uh oh, sorry for the long diatribe, you just asked about biners.....uh yes I like bent gate biners for convenience and gate opening size, and girth hitched slings to keep em in place. Those fancy steel ones with keepers are too heavy and a bit pricy fer me.

Here's a shot of your friend Scott Baker helping us prune and cable a split black locust---two steel cables and one Cobra....a fun $1800 job. Four of us spent three to six hours aloft...after my helper and I spent 2.5 hrs tieing off and and tensioning the split leader with the Plasma line 10 days earlier..

 

[okietreedude1]

Tom,

In the few times Ive done any speedlining, I use nonlocking biners with the strap girth hitched to it. The hitch in my opinion keeps the strap from moving around on the biner to jepordize the true weight rating. I recently got a Mamba biner from DMM. This has an eye of sorts on the small end to put your webbing through. A little more $, but keeps the webbing in the end. Otherwise, I have regular strait gate non-locking biners. I prefer DMM, but maybe its because I sell them too.